Car is falling on its face after 5K RPM's?????????????

[Turbodude06]

Ok I can't seem to figure this out, so I thought I'd ask some of u guys and see what u think... On my 95 accord, stock f22 vtec, car runs great and all, but if I get on it which isn't a lot, but after 5,000 rpm's i don't know what to expect... Like after 5K it just stops pulling which I thought, when I first got the car, that it was just the f22's powerband that do that(redline is 6,200)... But half the time it hits revlimiter wherever it wants to really, sometimes its at 5,300, 5,500, 5,800, and every now and then it will go to 6,200(twice to be exact) and those two or three times it actually pulled all the way to 6,200, which was making me wonder.... I did a tune up on it, that didn't do anything, timing is on stock, I even gave it some more fuel on the vafc, that didn't do anything either.... I don't know what it could be? But I really don't know how my car changes the revlimiter, thats what really stumps me, does anyone know why or how my car can do this????:thinking:

[BABY J]

Are you throwing any codes? Have you made any other changes via your VAFC?

[Turbodude06]

-No and No lol... It did this before the vafc too...... That was the reason I put it in cause stock vtec was like 4,500, so I had like 500 rpm's of vtec.....



-I have a feeling its something stupid, could this be a coil or something? I just didn't want to go spend $70 on a stupid coil if that wasn't it? I thought something ignition for it to be changing the revlimit like its doing?

[Turbodude06]

?????:thinking:

[Turbodude06]

No one has any other ideas????

[BABY J]

check your TPS voltages using your VAFC or a multimeter.

[Turbodude06]

check your TPS voltages using your VAFC or a multimeter.

Ok, will do... What were they supposed to be at again? I haven't changed one in awhile.... Any others ideas?????

[Turbodude06]

Ok according to the VAFC 0% throttle was .49, and full throttle was 4.59-4.6... That doesn't seem right to me?



-Oh and the really weird thing is I was taking a ride in my buddy's civic last night and it did the same thing, exept his was hitting revlimit at 6K when it was supposed to go to 7K:thinking:.....

[Formally...]

I think you need to try and get it to a dyno so you can actually see if it is falling off or not. Also, you can see it the air/fuel ratio is way off. You could be losing spark and that will cause the "rev limit" to move around. On the other hand you could be getting too much fuel and washing out the spark or not enough fuel. All will make the car misfire at higher rpms.

[Turbodude06]

I think you need to try and get it to a dyno so you can actually see if it is falling off or not. Also, you can see it the air/fuel ratio is way off. You could be losing spark and that will cause the "rev limit" to move around. On the other hand you could be getting too much fuel and washing out the spark or not enough fuel. All will make the car misfire at higher rpms.


EDIT: I just red that again lol. I guess I'll just wait for the my swap then:cry: cause I'm not spending that kind of money on this motor.... So if I'm loosing spark, what could that be? Distributor? And as for the fuel I don't think thats it, cause I did mess with it lean and rich past 5K and either way it acted about the same, still hitting revlimit and different points....

[Formally...]

Losing spark could be from many things, bad plugs, plug gap too big, bad wires, bad cap or rotor button, bad ignition control module. It could also be a fuel problem like I said before, clogged injector, clogged fuel filter, fuel pump going bad, or too much fuel. Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? Does the car pull strong all the way until it hits the moving rev limiter? Are you getting the same gas milage as always? Does it only do it at full throttle? Can you go all the way to 6200rpm at part throttle?

Finally, you can go do a full throttle pull and once it hits the moving revlimit turn the car off (don't let it come back to idle). Pull over and check the spark plugs. Do they all look the same? What color are the tips? This may tell you if you have a fuel problem.

[Turbodude06]

Losing spark could be from many things, bad plugs, plug gap too big, bad wires, bad cap or rotor button, bad ignition control module. It could also be a fuel problem like I said before, clogged injector, clogged fuel filter, fuel pump going bad, or too much fuel. Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? Does the car pull strong all the way until it hits the moving rev limiter? Are you getting the same gas milage as always? Does it only do it at full throttle? Can you go all the way to 6200rpm at part throttle?

Finally, you can go do a full throttle pull and once it hits the moving revlimit turn the car off (don't let it come back to idle). Pull over and check the spark plugs. Do they all look the same? What color are the tips? This may tell you if you have a fuel problem.

Ok those are some good things:goodjob:... As for the plugs, wires, cap or rotor. I just changed all those and its still does it, the plugs didn't seem to wet or white when I took them out to change them, they were actually pretty nice... As for my gas mileage it seems to be good and same everytime 30mpg.... I am going to try the part throttle to redline, haven't tryed that yet... And I was kind of thinking it could be the bad ignition control module(thats the one in the distributor right????). If its goes all the way in part throttle what will that mean?(Bad TPS?)




-Thanks for ur help so far....

[BABY J]

Ok according to the VAFC 0% throttle was .49, and full throttle was 4.59-4.6... That doesn't seem right to me?



-Oh and the really weird thing is I was taking a ride in my buddy's civic last night and it did the same thing, exept his was hitting revlimit at 6K when it was supposed to go to 7K:thinking:.....

Your VAFC literature should tell you where the voltages should be for your engine. If you don't have the literature it's downloadable from the site. Or you could hop on Accord forums and ask and some1 would know off the top of theor head.

[Turbodude06]

Your VAFC literature should tell you where the voltages should be for your engine. If you don't have the literature it's downloadable from the site. Or you could hop on Accord forums and ask and some1 would know off the top of theor head.

idk I bought it used, 5 years ago.:goodjob:

[EmminoDaGreat]

Your tps is reading correctly.

[Turbodude06]

Your tps is reading correctly.

Ok thanks:goodjob:

[Turbodude06]

Ok well I did what main stream told me to today I got on it a couple of times, hitting revlimite at 5,500 like twice and right before I pulled into my shop I got on it again a little and then just turned it off... When it cooled off some, I checked the plugs, and lets just say its running pretty lean... :( I could have sworn I checked that when I changed them last but must have missed it, idk.... But I'm changing the fuel filter today and running some seafoam threw it... It looks like the fuel filter has never been change cause I can't get it fuckin off right now (3 Hours later on one bolt)... Got to get some better tools from my dad, but I'm also ordering a fuel pressure regulator tonight and gauge to make some better adjustments... So we shall see...

[BABY J]

Why would it be lean if you haven't made changes on the VAFC?

[Turbodude06]

Why would it be lean if you haven't made changes on the VAFC?

What? Thats the bad part and I've made it richer, so if I didn't have that it would be runnin even more lean... Don't worry about the VAFC, it was doing this long before that was installed... :goodjob:

[.blank cd]

I dont think it has anything to do with your VAFC. My 95 accord is doing the same exact thing and its throwing a CEL. Its just when I get around to checking it, the CEL turns off. Im gonna check the distributor, but I've also heard that a VSS may be a culprit

[batlbrandon]

What rpm does VTEC come on in those cars? If the VTEC isnt working it will do the same thing that you are describing.

[.blank cd]

I believe its around 5, but accords and preludes dont have much of a crossover point. Once the CEL comes back on I'll figure out what it is

[Batlground]

I think that is probably where you should look next.

[Turbodude06]

I believe its around 5, but accords and preludes dont have much of a crossover point. Once the CEL comes back on I'll figure out what it is

Mine factory was like 4500 I have it at 3500 right now.... It crosses over VERY good for a single cam, feels just like a B16 if not better... When it hits the car actually jumps... But i kind of fixed it:rolleyes: I put the new fuel filter on which I think was the original(190K) and it still did it, so I up'd the fuel on the VAFC +4 from 3500-6000... And its pulling all the way threw with no weird revlimters or anything..... IDK if I have the wrong injectors or something, but I'm going to change my plugs here in the next day or two and do what mainstream told me again, and see if there white again.....

[Turbodude06]

What rpm does VTEC come on in those cars? If the VTEC isnt working it will do the same thing that you are describing.


Well the only code/problem I've ever had was with the vtec? And James/emminodagreat was the one who told me to bypass the vtec oil pressure sensor, but it did this before that too. IDK if that has anything to do with this..

http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236061 :goodjob:

[MidLifeCrisis]

I believe its around 5, but accords and preludes dont have much of a crossover point. Once the CEL comes back on I'll figure out what it is

FYI, on mid 90s accords, if the light comes on and then goes back out, it stores the code, so you can still check it by jumnping the blue plug underneath the dash on the passenger side..

both of your cars sound like VTEC issues.. whenever the VTEC system is acting up, it will start to limit the revs when it goes to hit VTEC if something is not in check.. did you try a new pressure switch or just some other old ratty pressure sensor? have you checked oil pressure? the oil pressure can be low enough to affect VTEC yet not be low enough to turn on the low oil pressure light.. check that, and if the oil pressure is fine, check for continuty between the ECU pins that correspond with the wires at the pressure solenoid... could be a burnt/broken wire, or a loose connection on the harness or at the ECU.

[.blank cd]

FYI, on mid 90s accords, if the light comes on and then goes back out, it stores the code, so you can still check it by jumnping the blue plug underneath the dash on the passenger side..
Yeah my buddy told me it would still store it. I'll check it in the morning and report back. Whatever the CEL is is undoubtably the problem

[.blank cd]

Just checked the code, It is a code 8 TDC sensor. Hello new distributor

[MidLifeCrisis]

Just checked the code, It is a code 8 TDC sensor. Hello new distributor

there ya go!

[.blank cd]

DTC's. What would we do without you!