need help on boosting or not

[project_EM1]

well i drive an em1 stock b16 and was wanting to go boost but was wondering if i should build the motor first which can be pricy but more boost can be acheive or can i just slap a turbo on it and go on low boost for the mean time....

[FAM0U5]

IMO build first saves you headaches..

[project_EM1]

IMO build first saves you headaches..

ok but where to start

[Barefoot]

ok but where to startthe bottom end

[BTEC]

get a 3 mil headgasket (mine was HKS) to drop compression, a good block guard (nu formz), and some arp head studs. i ran 15 psi on mine for years. and dont think i babies it either.

or you could do rods, pistons, block guard, head studs then boost it.

[project_EM1]

get a 3 mil headgasket (mine was HKS) to drop compression, a good block guard (nu formz), and some arp head studs. i ran 15 psi on mine for years. and dont think i babies it either.

or you could do rods, pistons, block guard, head studs then boost it.

are you using the b16 piston
i was plan on getting a block guard and some ls piston to lower the comp probably some arp headstud too
given that could i still boost if only using a block guard with arp headstud on stock internals
not looking to go high boost soon just want a lil more power for a dd

[BTEC]

are you using the b16 piston
i was plan on getting a block guard and some ls piston to lower the comp probably some arp headstud too
given that could i still boost if only using a block guard with arp headstud on stock internals
not looking to go high boost soon just want a lil more power for a dd
I thought about doing ls pistons recently for r&d purposes. i had a bone stock b16. the headgasket dropped compression to 8.5:1 and costed 300. if u need some ls pistons i got a trade for u. lol. seriously.

[RedEj8]

Just throw a turbo kit on it and get a good tune at 7 or 8 psi. You'll make a LOT more power and will still be in the green zone and should keep you happy for a while. When you decide to run more boost go ahead and build the motor with forged parts.

ARP headstuds would still be a good idea but a block guard will do nothing for strength.

[BTEC]

i disagree with ur opinion on the block guard but to each his own.

[project_EM1]

Just throw a turbo kit on it and get a good tune at 7 or 8 psi. You'll make a LOT more power and will still be in the green zone and should keep you happy for a while. When you decide to run more boost go ahead and build the motor with forged parts.

ARP headstuds would still be a good idea but a block guard will do nothing for strength.

that was what i was thinking bout doin getting a decent turbo kit and run 7 to 10psi max stock and getting it tuned.
until i run into some cash and get some forged internals but on the topic of the blockguard have anyone tried both setup
with and without the blockguard...i mean it may not be all that great but isnt it better to use the block instead of not
since it would be stock sleeves..on that note i heard the b16 sleeves could handle up to 400 hp is there any truth to it..

[project_EM1]

I thought about doing ls pistons recently for r&d purposes. i had a bone stock b16. the headgasket dropped compression to 8.5:1 and costed 300. if u need some ls pistons i got a trade for u. lol. seriously.

what headgasket did you use

[BTEC]

what headgasket did you use
cometic the first 2 times, oe this time.

[LostSolVTEC]

some differing opinions here and that's normal. IMO the safety of a "healthy" motor (ie: good comp and leakdown before turboing) is all in the tune.

I think the block guards are a waste of time but then again that's just my view on it.

I had a stock B16 with a Precision SC34 tuned to 9.5psi and made 300hp. Drove it for 3 years hard as a daily. 9k redline.

The only thing I ended up doing was putting in ARP studs and a new OE gasket because the head was starting to lift under boost.

If you have the money...then build. Just remember Cheap/Fast/Reliable <- Pick 2

[BTEC]

im not saying a BG is a miracle worker but it does help stabilize the cylinders. and ive seen sleeves split that didnt have one. maybe it wouldve split with the BG but im not risking my engine for a 150 dollar part.

The bone stock engine i put the hks headgasket on with 15psi didnt have one in it but i didnt car bc i had a built bottom end already assembled and 2 more spare shortblocks.

the weak link of the b16 and boost with factory internals are the ringlands anyway. but im just throwing some options out there.

[LostSolVTEC]

no doubt it's cheap insurance, but you're trying to combat cylinder wobble. A conservative tune (from a competent tuner) will minimize much of the wobble. My buddy just made over 700hp on the stock sleeves in his integra. Granted it will only last 40-50 passes at that power level. For the everyday 3-400 hp I don't think it's needed.

And I do agree, the pistons' ringlands are the weak point.

[BTEC]

i agree with a good tuner should b able to minimize the cylinder wobble but if they do happen to move its ur problem not his right? but the same goes for if u got a blockguard or even sleeves. lol.

i always put one in the b's and d's i build if it gonna be boosted on stock sleeves.

[project_EM1]

lookin at this turbo kit what do you think yea i know its ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260274369775

[LostSolVTEC]

i agree with a good tuner should b able to minimize the cylinder wobble but if they do happen to move its ur problem not his right? but the same goes for if u got a blockguard or even sleeves. lol.

i always put one in the b's and d's i build if it gonna be boosted on stock sleeves.

gotta pay to play unfortunately :lmfao:

[turbob20]

well if you do use a cylinder brace dont just hammer it in and call it a day. each set up is diffrent tolerances so think about it long and hard. the right way it to have it installed, bore it hone it build it. because some cylinder braces can put added pressure in the wrong places and cause hot spots and added wear in those places after they heat and expand. if you do machine work after the install or at least have it miced and check for roundness and consistancy no matter where the added pressure is the cylinder will be fresh and round no matter what.