OverHeating Issues

[VickNotic]

compression coolant etc checked out fine! radiator was checked also..

heres what i done so far... riight now i'm running with no thermostat. and it still overheats ... but takes a lil longer now only.. sometimes the reservoir tank would overflow.... month ago the radiator hoses calapsed, So I replaced both hoses .. fixed that problem... then the rear U bend hose popped on me.. and i replaced that problem blocked up the heater hoses so it doesn't cycle through the heater hoses .. to make sure heater core was not cloogedd ..outcome still overheats.. so I reinstalled the hoses back to the heater core hose. Radiator which is new.. but not OEM was bought from a IA member .. which looked exactly the same as original.. but with no stamp no nothing. but was in newnew condition never used blah blah.. & radiator cap was tested also and passed test.. only thing i'm thinking is water pump,, the original waterpump on my ITR block is a 19T ... went through a few goggles and etc.. but ended up using my new 22T waterpump which is new, bought as a GSR from orielly however you spell it

I Know what a blown headgasket sounds/Drives like .. even when it overheats it drives fine!!!! but when it reaches about little over half way and you can see it gradually go up.. i shut it down... i dont leak or smoke or anything, only leaks form the overflow reservoir tank, everything else no leaks could be found anywhere else..
I had a few shops look into my problems.. But they couldn't find out what the issue was... One shop I definately though it was the headgasket.. adn was driving it over there to get a new headgasket replaced.. but they also checked it out everything was working how it should be.. fans kicked in normal, etc etc

just to get it out of the question i might have from some of yall....
yes theres plenty of radiator fluid in there this is what i've replaced so far


replaced temp sensor, fan switch, computer temp sensor guage .. watever it's called.. replaced u bend hose in rear, replaced both radiator hose, new full size radiator,

[ash7]

Just a couple suggestions:

- Try a 1.3 radiator cap
- Bubbles in the coolant?
- Might just need to be bled properly?
- Check under your oil fill cap for white residue.
- Your "new" 22t water pump is for an LS - not a Vtec engine.
- Check your spark plugs - do they look *too* clean or "white-ish?"
- Is your car drinking coolant (is the level diminishing over a few days or so?)

-jonathan

[VickNotic]

Just a couple suggestions:

- Try a 1.3 radiator cap
- Bubbles in the coolant?
- Might just need to be bled properly?
- Check under your oil fill cap for white residue.
- Your "new" 22t water pump is for an LS - not a Vtec engine.
- Check your spark plugs - do they look *too* clean or "white-ish?"
- Is your car drinking coolant (is the level diminishing over a few days or so?)

-jonathan

- mines a 1.0 i think, rad cap but i'll look into that
- bubbles are gone
- bled it plenty long enough
- spark plugs are brownish all of them.. not wet if thats what u mean
- car is not drinking coolant but pressure pushes out through the coolant overflow reservoir only...... it would get full and overflow from the reservoir tank only..

[1civic]

Edit:
The 19t is going to spin faster with the more RPM's you turn... That's why it's on the LS.. The GSR had the 22t cause the motor turns more rpms and they had to slow the pump down by adding teeth.. Hope that makes sense.

My Point:
Since you really have no way of knowing if the pump is spinning under load or High Rpm's, I'd replace that pump even if you stay with the 22t.. :yes:

Reason:
If a leakdown, compression test and coolant pressure test showed nothing..

[ash7]

- mines a 1.0 i think, rad cap but i'll look into that
- bubbles are gone
- bled it plenty long enough
- spark plugs are brownish all of them.. not wet if thats what u mean
- car is not drinking coolant but pressure pushes out through the coolant overflow reservoir only...... it would get full and overflow from the reservoir tank only..

Another thought is that your 22t pump is over pressurizing the system and causing the radiator cap to open?

Either your cap is faulty, or it's doing its job and the system pressure is too high. I think the 19t and 22t pumps output the same PSI until 6k - but i cannot remember exactly, maybe the OGs nomohondas or Tech5 can clear this up? :)

-jonathan

[VickNotic]

I know we talked before about this.. It will run fine sitting still? Only under load will it get hot right? Since you went up from 19 to 22 teeth on the pump, I'd start there.. ;)


iono but i bought it as a GSR, and i wouldn't think it would be the waterpump though, it still functions the same way unless.. its' like what i'm thinking

19T would make it spin faster, but inside the fins itself is 1fin short compared to the 22T

22T would make it spin slower i guess but the fins/blades inside waterpump is 1fin more..

does that make sense? but i still have the original waterpump, but iono bout using it though.. thats alot of work haha

[ash7]

I know we talked before about this.. It will run fine sitting still? Only under load will it get hot right? Since you went up from 19 to 22 teeth on the pump, I'd start there.. ;)

my thoughts exactly


iono but i bought it as a GSR, and i wouldn't think it would be the waterpump though, it still functions the same way unless.. its' like what i'm thinking

19T would make it spin faster, but inside the fins itself is 1fin short

22T would make it spin slower i guess but the fins/blades inside waterpump is 1fin more..

does that make sense? but i still have the original waterpump, but iono bout using it though.. thats alot of work haha

If that is the case - then the 22t pump puts out a lot more pressure - three extra teeth and and extra fin to push water with? that would increase both GPM and PSI.

you have created your own problem bro. Possibly why your hoses couldn't take it and you had so many failures as well.

-jonathan

[Barefoot]

classic water pump

[VickNotic]

but would that waterpump make a difference though??

[1civic]

but would that waterpump make a difference though??
Buy a New Pump from Honda for that motor... :cheers:

[im_hung]

Buy a New Pump from Honda for that motor... :cheers:

x2 :goodjob:

[VickNotic]

these are some pictures and threads/talks about the waterpumps... and as yall can see I did some searching before I installed my 22T waterpump on mines.. everyone and everything here says it all 22T are for vtec's but the original one that had it before me had a 19T on his... even from a parts a place where they sell parts/etc. Unless all these information is false and blahblah etc

19T = non vtec
22T = vtec


posted by a user online form honda tech:There are only two water pumps available for B-series motors. A 19T and a 22T. The 19T's came on all LS's before 96 and before 96 the 22T only came on the Vtec motors. 96 up all have the 22T water pump.


http://sd.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?product=G3000-52787&year=1997&make=58&sid=kng3ws55rz0xbtn2suxqrvb4

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1995&make=AC&model=INT-GSR4-001&category=G&part=Water+Pump

[VickNotic]

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=115789&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic

^ very interesting thread also.. from teamintegra.com

so can someone tell me again that i'm using the wrong waterpump.... proof is there.. so that pretty much covers my waterpump RIGHT????

but what i found out is that.. the waterpump that was originally on the block was a non-vtec waterpump on a vtec block..

copied from TI:

Discussion- you can't really say one is better than the other since they were designed for different goals. I can honestly say the NON-VTEC pump is more efficient than the VTEC pump for several reasons. It moves over 30% more water per engine rotation!

Reason #1- greater surface area on the impellers. Both pumps have 7 blades or "Impellers" pushing the water through the pump. the non VTEC surface area is approximately 0.291 inch square while the VTEC pump is 0.258 inch square. This makes the NON-VTEC pump move 13% (113%) more water per revolution.


so i guess i'ma slapp back the 19T back on then..?

[1civic]

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=115789&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic

^ very interesting thread also.. from teamintegra.com

so can someone tell me again that i'm using the wrong waterpump.... proof is there.. so that pretty much covers my waterpump RIGHT????

No... 19t would be wrong.. Just get a New 22t pump.. :cheers:

[VickNotic]

No... 19t would be wrong.. Just get a New 22t pump.. :cheers:


thats what I'm saying, so pretty much i've solved my own problem and i do have the 22T pump on mines.. so waterpump is not the problem then.. right :thinking:

[Cool Cat Racing]

How is your air routed to the radiator? If you have plenty of space for the air to go around the radiator it will rather than go through it. And for everyone saying the pump will change your pressure you're wrong, the heat in the system makes the water expand which is what causes the total pressure, the pump has nothing to do with it. The only difference is when it will begin to cavatate. They slowed the Vtec pumps down to keep the pumps from cavatating at higher RPMs which will lower coolant flow, same reason you need to underdrive water pumps on race cars that see mostly high RPMs.

[Meatball546]

How is your air routed to the radiator? If you have plenty of space for the air to go around the radiator it will rather than go through it. And for everyone saying the pump will change your pressure you're wrong, the heat in the system makes the water expand which is what causes the total pressure, the pump has nothing to do with it. The only difference is when it will begin to cavatate. They slowed the Vtec pumps down to keep the pumps from cavatating at higher RPMs which will lower coolant flow, same reason you need to underdrive water pumps on race cars that see mostly high RPMs.

This is the most intelligent post I've seen in a while.

I don't know about the Honda engines, but I know that some manufacturers completely re-rout the coolant flow when the thermostat opens. Removing the thermostat altogether wouldn't direct the coolant through the system properly. Also, try flushing the coolant system with a commercial flushing agent. There could be a significant blockage in there somewhere.