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Jecht
05-01-2009, 12:15 PM
I already posted this on MX5atlanta, but I figured I'd share it here too. I repainted my faded bumpers with nothing but spray cans.

Everything I've done in this thread should be easy to find at local paint places - the sandpaper, spray primer, spray clear. Finding a place to match the paint to the color code was harder. Legend shared this place with me:

Slack Auto Parts
2023 Atlas Circle
Gainesville, GA 30501
770-535-6020

They paint matched it for me and put it into a spray can. Everything else I got from Touchstone Paint in Marietta.

SOURCES
http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Rattle%20Cans
http://clubroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27307
Legend


WARNING
I did this on my car, I like the way it has turned out so far. Know what you are doing before you just go out and do this though - not thinking it through and planning will botch the entire paint job.

SUPPLIES
To start with, you need to get your paint code off your car. For the NAs, you can find it on the sticker by the door latch on the car. You'll need it to match the paint.

Second, I got the paint matched to the stock Classic Red (paint code SU). Now every paint place doesn't do this - I had them mix it and put it into a regular spray can.

So here is a full list of supplies:
-Color-code matched spray paint
-Spray primer (I used two cans for two bumpers)
-Spray clear
-600 grit, 1000 grit, and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper
-plenty of clean rags and a bottle of rubbing alcohol
-Rubbing compound to buff
-Regular automotive wax
-Painter's tape and newspaper or whatever else you will use to cover the car

PREP WORK
The first thing I did was wet sand the bumpers with 600 grit sandpaper. This might be better with a lower grit, but I didn't want to put any unnecessary scratches in the plastic. At this point I also removed the Mazda sticker on my front bumper and removed the turn signals and bumper lights.

I then sanded with the 600 grit one last time and blew the dust off with my air compressor then cleaned the bumpers off with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.

I prepped the car by using painters tape and making sure I had the rest of the car well covered so I wouldn't spray the paint that is good on the rest of the car. I used 2-3 layers of newspaper taped to the car and a tarp we had laying around.

COVER EVERYTHING YOU DON'T WANT PAINTED. In these pictures I haven't put down the tarp I had over the middle of the car. We also accidentally deleted the first batch of pictures, this is after I laid 5 coats of the paint down.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/213/dsc02238rkb.jpg

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5456/dsc02239y.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7479/dsc02241z.jpg

Cleaned it one last time before spraying the primer

PRIMER
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6251/dsc02215.jpg
To ensure it sprayed properly and adheres properly, I let the primer cans warm up in a bucket of warm water for a while. Then shake them for a couple of minutes - not just a few seconds!

Starting at the top of the area you want to cover, spray an even coat in one area. Move your arm instead of your wrist. You also want to make sure you have the spray nozzle exactly parallel to the area you are spraying. This will ensure that one area doesn't get a thicker layer than the rest. Do this for the entire area and let each line you spray overlap each other slightly.

Let it dry a while according to the instructions on the primer spray can and then lay down a second and possibly third coat. Let it dry completely according to the instructions. Mine said to let it dry an hour or two before spraying the paint.

BEFORE PAINTING
Wetsand the primer with 600 grit. Blow the area off with an air compressor or something, then clean it all with rubbing alcohol and another clean rag.

PAINTING
Again, spray the same way you did with the primer. It will look odd at first. It looked pink to me. Just make you spray it and leave a decent coat on there. When you spray more coats of the paint, it starts to look much better. I did a total of 6 or 7 coats on each bumper. This took three of the spray cans.

AFTER PAINT
Wetsand with either 600 or 1000 grit it some to remove any imperfections. I had some areas I made some obvious mistakes on and this is when I hid them. Again, blow the area off and clean with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag.

CLEAR COAT
Spray this the same way you sprayed the primer and the paint. Smooth and even. I'd do two layers simply because we will be doing sanding and some finishing touches in a bit.

FINISHING TOUCHES
Wetsand the clear coat with 1000 grit and make sure its even, then wetsand with 2000 grit. Blow it off and clean it with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag. Buff it with the rubbing compound. For the last bit, wax just the area you've just painted well. It should shine nicely.


How it looks finished:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2341/dsc02245u.jpg

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6296/dsc02246s.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7926/dsc02242gyv.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2231/dsc02244z.jpg



I hope nobody screws up their car with this. :o

The BUCKY
05-01-2009, 12:22 PM
if you wetsand your base/color coat you need to put another coat on to cover your sanding marks

Drummerboy
05-01-2009, 12:24 PM
Good post! Im using this on my key-scratched door handles, faded side mirrors and swirl marked oem wing.

but one question, can you fully explain wet sanding? just to be clear, so i dont mess anything up.

Jecht
05-01-2009, 12:37 PM
if you wetsand your base/color coat you need to put another coat on to cover your sanding marks

I did, the pictures where I have everything prepped are before I laid down two more coats of paint and then the clear. I'll edit it after I get back from work.


Good post! Im using this on my key-scratched door handles, faded side mirrors and swirl marked oem wing.

but one question, can you fully explain wet sanding? just to be clear, so i dont mess anything up.

Wetsanding is just sandpaper and water. You just have to make sure you buy sand paper that is for dry or wet. Its easier to do when its wet and easier to clean. Just keep the sandpaper wet and rinse it in a bucket to get the extra paint off it.

Elbow
05-01-2009, 01:13 PM
Damn, looks really good, I went with the $30 worth of supply roller job (will finish it sometime soon that it's warm.)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/simontibbett/Picture028.jpg

Keep us updated on how long it lasts as in holds color and all, can you high speed buff/wax it?

j0nbunklah0m
05-01-2009, 01:15 PM
nice thread. reps for u

MR2DR
05-01-2009, 01:20 PM
i'm actually doing something similar to this this coming week thanks for some tips

oneSLOWex
05-01-2009, 01:21 PM
Nice write up. Im more than likely gonna be doing this on my f/r lips and side skirts

Arm&hammer
05-01-2009, 02:31 PM
ive done something like this with my car and the paint actually stayed for some time.

Jecht
05-01-2009, 04:44 PM
You can buff it a little to get more shine out of it; I'm doing that when I've given it time to dry some. You can definitely wax it though, several of the sites I've read about doing this says it will work the same as regular paint. I do like the way your paint has turned out though Simon - it was definitely a bit more cost effective than this. lol

I spent:
-$55 for paint
-$46 for two cans of primer
-$18 for sandpaper (I bought extra just in case)
-$20 for one can of clear

Thanks for all the nice comments guys!

The Youngn
05-01-2009, 10:00 PM
I used Krylon Triple Glaze clear on the pieces i painted before and it held up beautifully.

green91
05-02-2009, 10:31 AM
LOL i shop at that slack's auto all the time but didnt know they could match paint and put it in a spray can. I may have a few cans made to color match the hood and fender on my subaru.

XanRules
05-18-2009, 02:52 PM
I'm so doing this on the Fiat.

Civictyper95
05-18-2009, 07:30 PM
reps:goodjob:

RL...
05-18-2009, 08:54 PM
will be doing this for my front lip

Jecht
05-19-2009, 10:10 AM
I never posted a picture of it completely finished:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9148/dsc02254.jpg

blacknightteg
05-19-2009, 10:13 AM
thank you for the post sir!

Jecht
05-19-2009, 10:20 AM
thank you for the post sir!

No problem, I had fun putting it all together and documenting it. Next two things are a DIY lip and a DIY shift boot.

blacknightteg
05-19-2009, 10:26 AM
this is what i wanted this forum to be like. and im glad contributions are already comming in!

Glides
05-19-2009, 10:51 AM
Good stuff man. If you take your time with spray cans, they can turn out alright.

I once did a 66 911 with spray cans. Olive drab green, was a mean looking beast. With the 67 S motor and triple webers, it also ran pretty mean too. Nothing wrong with spray cans, long as you prep right.

Jecht
05-19-2009, 11:03 AM
Good stuff man. If you take your time with spray cans, they can turn out alright.

I once did a 66 911 with spray cans. Olive drab green, was a mean looking beast. With the 67 S motor and triple webers, it also ran pretty mean too. Nothing wrong with spray cans, long as you prep right.

Thats pretty much what I got from reading about painting and all. The prep work is what will make it last and look smooth. I read about people doing cars all sorts of colors with regular spray paint and not just matched automotive paint.

Thanks for the comments everyone!

.blank cd
05-19-2009, 02:58 PM
Good post ryan! It would also be good to note that if you're painting plastic bumpers and what not to use an adhesion promotor and flex coat so you dont get chips

VQ35 Star
05-19-2009, 03:26 PM
you dont really need to follow up your 1000 wet/dry with 2000, you can simply start at 2000 wet with a block.

or if you want it done quicker just wet sand with 1000 and buff with medium compound, dont push too hard when blocking bc you'll leave sand scratches.

your rattle can project turn out suprisingly good man. I was thinking it was going to look dry sprayed like hell, but shit looks real glossy.

You_Wish
05-19-2009, 10:57 PM
damn bro... im thinking of doing this...

RL...
05-20-2009, 03:59 PM
Just did this on my front lip today. Considering black is the most unforgiving color I think it came out ok. It's not as glossy as the rest of my car but it doesn't look bad though, it's a temp fix so it's fine. I will add that I rushed this a little bit and didn't sand/buff/pant/repeat as much as I should've, so I'm sure it could've came out little better.

Jecht
05-20-2009, 09:24 PM
Just did this on my front lip today. Considering black is the most unforgiving color I think it came out ok. It's not as glossy as the rest of my car but it doesn't look bad though, it's a temp fix so it's fine. I will add that I rushed this a little bit and didn't sand/buff/pant/repeat as much as I should've, so I'm sure it could've came out little better.

Yeah, you have to put a bit of extra work into it to make it shine. Any pics?

87 Turbo II
05-20-2009, 09:32 PM
Looks good, I need paint, this would be a good budget job.

driftORdrag
06-09-2009, 10:01 PM
How many cans of paint did you use and would you mind telling me how much you paid per can?

Jecht
06-10-2009, 08:30 AM
How many cans of paint did you use and would you mind telling me how much you paid per can?

I bought six cans, but I think I only ended up using three and a half. That was with about seven coats of paint on those two bumpers too. The paint was like $11/can.

driftORdrag
06-14-2009, 10:51 PM
Thanks I'm definitely doing this to my stock rear bumper for my eclipse..

Jecht
06-14-2009, 11:55 PM
Thanks I'm definitely doing this to my stock rear bumper for my eclipse..

When you're finished, could you post pictures? I'd like to see how it turns out for you. :goodjob: