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View Full Version : why do i keep spinnig bearings?



vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 06:44 PM
and dont tell me lack of oil because i dont do that shit or its a dent in my oil pan because i dont have one

Barefoot
04-29-2009, 06:46 PM
how many times? how many different motors?

Decepticon™
04-29-2009, 06:47 PM
how high are you reving the motor???and who built the motor???

dorin48
04-29-2009, 06:48 PM
Well you dont have to be low on oil to have low oil pressure. Also what Mr. no mo hondas said.

JITB
04-29-2009, 06:49 PM
Are u torqueing the rod bolts correctly?

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 06:49 PM
3 times 3 different motors

Barefoot
04-29-2009, 06:53 PM
3 times 3 different motorshave u done anything to the bottom ends.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 06:53 PM
i built it but i must be doing something wrong 8500-9300 revs i have ALL suporting parts and tuned




how high are you reving the motor???and who built the motor???

Barefoot
04-29-2009, 06:55 PM
i built it but i must be doing something wrong 8500-9300 revs i have ALL suporting parts and tunedif u built all 3 and u spun on all 3 i would have to agree u are doing something wrong. are you gauging the bearing before install and tq them to the right spec.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 06:55 PM
fully fully built sleeved balanced i made 445 @ mainstream last friday but i havnt even hammered on it yet i was saving for the track




have u done anything to the bottom ends.

dorin48
04-29-2009, 06:56 PM
Well what oil pressure are you hitting? or what is the oil pump rated for? I think you need to be in the 95-100 psi range for 9000+ (could be wrong). Is it the same crank each time? The same cylinder # ?

Barefoot
04-29-2009, 06:59 PM
Well what oil pressure are you hitting? or what is the oil pump rated for? I think you need to be in the 95-100 psi range for 9000+ (could be wrong). Is it the same crank each time? The same cylinder # ?:goodjob::goodjob::goodjob: my next set of questions right there.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 06:59 PM
well i havent spun 3 in a row. it was like a stock internal setup then did rods and pistons and then i cracked a sleeve did rods and pistons again spun a bearing then a sleeve again and then i sleeved the block and now i crunk it up today and i heard that tap tap tap and i know what it was so ive got to be doing something wrong




if u built all 3 and u spun on all 3 i would have to agree u are doing something wrong. are you gauging the bearing before install and tq them to the right spec.

JITB
04-29-2009, 07:01 PM
what abotu the torque on the rod bolts? did u make sure those were correct?

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 07:02 PM
its a type r oil pump new oem i never repair cranks i always just buy a standard one. so i can use standard bearings that way the machine work is cheaper when they balance everything . my oil pressure is about 24 or 26 at idol around 50 drinving the speed limit and about 75 when i get on it maybe 80 but i have never looked at the gauge at 9000




Well what oil pressure are you hitting? or what is the oil pump rated for? I think you need to be in the 95-100 psi range for 9000+ (could be wrong). Is it the same crank each time? The same cylinder # ?

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 07:03 PM
i usually torque by the book




Are u torqueing the rod bolts correctly?

dorin48
04-29-2009, 07:06 PM
I dont think the stock type -r pump is up to your demands and it sounds like the machine work might be coming up a little short on quality. The extra volume used to feed the turbo can lower the peak pressure of the pump. I say keep it at 8500 and thats as high as you should go without a change in the volume of the pump (more pressure isnt always the answer). Or you could just get a dry sump rated for like 110psi and spin it to oblivion! weeeee :D

Barefoot
04-29-2009, 07:08 PM
edit just got updated.

after the updates id be looking at the pump also.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 07:08 PM
i agree on the machine work ill go somewhere else


I dont think the stock type -r pump is up to your demands and it sounds like the machine work might be coming up a little short on quality. The extra volume used to feed the turbo can lower the peak pressure of the pump.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 07:11 PM
no ive ran ls/vtec then gsr now back to ls/vtec diff. crank i dont have a good ls crank right now but i do have a good gsr so thats why i asked if i could use it




your using the same crank

dorin48
04-29-2009, 07:12 PM
edit just got updated. He said he was buying a new crank each time it was needed to save on machining. I think if you dont buy a balanced rotating assembly as a kit, the new crank has to be checked and milled according to the components to avoid issues. Well what I mean is when rods and a crank come into contact for the first time the need to be matched.

jfman
04-29-2009, 07:13 PM
Post pics of the bearings.

vancem3m3
04-29-2009, 07:15 PM
cant get pics right now




Post pics of the bearings.

DirtyMechanic
04-29-2009, 07:52 PM
sounds like who ever is building your motors shouldnt be building them.. after the second bearing. i would have switched. and had someone who knows something about building them. tear it down and find out why.

but it sounds like someone is using..... ewww plastic gauge ewww which is a big no no when it comes to motors. you can use it on the cams but thats it. and your bearings are too tight.

jfman
04-29-2009, 08:10 PM
Are you getting the cranks refinished. Hate to tell you this but honda cranks dont like getting refinished. My cousin got his b18c5 crank refinished and it went out twice then he bit the bullet and bought a new one with bearings.

I'd find an unmolested crank and use OEM size bearings with it.

PM silversol think he got one from an ls

DirtyMechanic
04-29-2009, 08:15 PM
Are you getting the cranks refinished. Hate to tell you this but honda cranks dont like getting refinished. My cousin got his b18c5 crank refinished and it went out twice then he bit the bullet and bought a new one with bearings.

I'd find an unmolested crank and use OEM size bearings with it.

PM silversol think he got one from an lsyou just dont use oem bearings because thats a oem crank and blah blah blah. you use the bearings that work with the crank and block when put together correctly. weather it be 3 oem bearins and 1 oversized bearing or 1 oem standard size and 1 undersize and 2 over sized. whatever it takes to work.

turbob20
04-30-2009, 03:18 PM
well i was there and the problem was when he got head lift the water cut the bearings down and created extra clearance. we took it apart and the bearings were not spun but glazed and really shinny. no debris in oil pan so i think with a slight polish on this knife edged crank will be fine with standard bearings. it was just from the head lift water thing. this is a damn good engine, good machine work, just gotta get it done and torque them headstuds more than 65 next time. then lets see what she makes.

DirtyMechanic
05-02-2009, 02:45 AM
so its sleeved and it had head lift? how do you get head lift with a built motor? head studs... L19s... wtf.

green91
05-02-2009, 09:17 AM
Being sleeved has nothing to do with head lift. Although if hes using ARP head studs and getting lift at only 450whp then they may not be torqued correctly.

jap_racer1
05-02-2009, 10:40 AM
i got an idea!!!!!!

aftermarket crank (eagle-crower whatever) NEW!!!
ACL race bearings
new rods (if you spun a rod bearing then the rods trashed)
new wrist pins and the locking shit (after been used higher risk of coming back out)
GOLDEN EAGLE HEADSTUDS (THE SHISNIT)


and let someone else set you bearings and torque it down and follow the torque specs on the paperwork that comes with the headstuds not stock torque specs

there you go should be a good motor for yeah!!

you only made 450+ with a sleeved block how many pounds you pushing???

i am making that on stock sleeves!!!

VickNotic
05-02-2009, 02:34 PM
i got an idea!!!!!!

aftermarket crank (eagle-crower whatever) NEW!!!
ACL race bearings
new rods (if you spun a rod bearing then the rods trashed)
new wrist pins and the locking shit (after been used higher risk of coming back out)
GOLDEN EAGLE HEADSTUDS (THE SHISNIT)


and let someone else set you bearings and torque it down and follow the torque specs on the paperwork that comes with the headstuds not stock torque specs

there you go should be a good motor for yeah!!

you only made 450+ with a sleeved block how many pounds you pushing???

i am making that on stock sleeves!!!


thats why your motor went vammooSe to oblivionn!! :lmfao:

Starrfire
05-03-2009, 11:43 PM
Have you turned your honda crank?...

DirtyMechanic
05-04-2009, 05:20 AM
Being sleeved has nothing to do with head lift. Although if hes using ARP head studs and getting lift at only 450whp then they may not be torqued correctly.well what i was referring to is. if he has the block sleeved he should be putting some serious power down. enough to pop the stock sleeves. and usually in order to pop stock sleeves and warrant after market sleeves head lift should no where be an issue. hence if you have sleeves you should have at least at minimuim standard arp 2000 head studs. if not L19s. right have sleeves has nothing to do with head lift. but if you have sleeves you shouldnt have any trouble paying for proper parts to prevent head lift at stock sleeve numbers.

turbob20
05-05-2009, 03:14 AM
i agree on the machine work ill go somewhere elseits not the machinist! he has always done my work and ive never had an engine fail.ever.