getting nitrous soon...please read

[ksniperfox]

ive searched a few hours over the past couple weeks on google and done a bit of reading. if you dont know what youre talking about, dont post in my thread.

with that out of the way, i cant find anything on the tunability of dry vs. direct port.

i would really prefer dry or direct port due to the fact that puddling in my intake manifold could not occur, and i will be getting it tuned before i use it anyway so added fuel delivery like in a wet system is not necessary i believe, the tuner could just increase the duty cycle of the injectors if the pump is sufficient.

however, with a dry kit, is nitrous evenly distributed when it reaches all 4 cylinders? im worried about any one cylinder running leaner or richer than the others. even distribution is my main concern as i want the motor to run perfect if its on the bottle.

[RedEj8]

How much are you planning on running? That will determine what setup you need. You are probably going to want to upgrade the fuel pump and get a AFPR just like you're adding forced induction too.

For a really low shot, like under 50, a dry or wet kit would be best. A wet kit will require no further tuning, theoretically. You will get proper distribution to all cylinders as long as the nozzle is placed correctly (orientation and distance) in front of the throttle body.

[LongLiveH2b]

"the tuner could just increase the duty cycle of the injectors if the pump is sufficient." yea this is a good and cheaper route but you have to have some type of ECU upgrade to allow that type of program ex. hondata, the nozzle should never be so close to the TB, i mean i never tested it on how it works but its kinda common sense to have it maybe a foot from the TB so it can work its way in as if its normal air coming in...255lph Fuel pump, depending on size of shot u might have to buy bigger injectors to run more safer with a lower duty cycle %, 75shot dry, a switch to change ecu tuning settings from N/A to nitrous, get tuned with nitrous so that timing is retarded at the correct time when needed and know exactly what AFR your at......or even cheaper is the nitrous pressure regulator....very old but its pretty much still a dry shot some info on that--------> Inside the NOS nitrous regulator is a brass plunger. The plunger has an O-ring seal on the end where it goes into the regulator cap, an O-ring seal on the small diameter of the shaft which goes in to the regulator body, and a nylon tip in the small end which goes into the regulator body. When the nitrous solenoid is opened, nitrous flows, and pressure from the nitrous bottle bleeds through the bottom hole in the regulator housing. One the housing is pressurized, the pressure then bleeds in two directions. The first direction is towards the FPR. The second direction is through the hole drilled into the side of the brass plunger. After nitrous pressure enters the hole in the plunger, it then travels down the center of plunger towards the cap. When nitrous pressure enters the cap, it presses on the plunger's large diameter, and the plunger then acts as a piston. The plunger presses itself into the regulator housing, compressing the spring. The plunger will only compress the spring until nylon tip in the plunger bottoms out on the inverted flare machined into the nitrous regulator housing. Once the nylon tip hits the inverted flare, nitrous flow into the regulator is stopped. Since nitrous flow has stopped, the nitrous solenoid has ceased supplying pressure, and the pressure which was previously in the regulator housing begins to bleed off through T bypass installed near the FPR. Once enough nitrous pressure has bled off through the bypass, the spring presses the plunger back into the cap, and the seal created at the nylon tip is gone. Nitrous pressure flows back into the regulator, and the system repeats itself until the nitrous solenoid closes.

[Atlblkz06]

however, with a dry kit, is nitrous evenly distributed when it reaches all 4 cylinders? im worried about any one cylinder running leaner or richer than the others. even distribution is my main concern as i want the motor to run perfect if its on the bottle.

Simple answer - NO it's not perfect. If you're gonna stop at 50-75 shot, go this route. Otherwise spend the money and time on a direct port. Thats JMO.

[ksniperfox]

thanks for the replies, reps given. 75 will be the largest shot. but youre saying a dry 75 will be pretty evenly distributed?

[RedEj8]

It will be fine as long as you have the nozzle far enough away from the throttle plate.

[GGPIS3]

i say go with a single wet kit if you only want to run a 75 shot. you won't need to get it tuned (you can tune with the fuel jets), but ofcourse that is up to you. i would also suggest getting a wideband so you can monitor whats going on while spraying.

[RedEj8]

^ That.. A wet kit would be easier and probably the best idea.

[LongLiveH2b]

yea a simple wet kit is easy to do a basic tune yourself, just go do dyno pulls to see your AFR through your band..$40-50 for your average 3 pulls 4pulls if your not annoying and bring food! lol..if the reading is too rich go with a smaller jet and vice versa when its on the lean side of things...get atleast a Fuel pressure gauge inside the car if you cant afford a Wideband so when that pressure drops better let dat bitch go!! lol..but yea goodluck with your shit i got a friend spraying 75 with a wet kit on his S2k tuned and its still running fine for the past year and half

[Atlblkz06]

thanks for the replies, reps given. 75 will be the largest shot. but youre saying a dry 75 will be pretty evenly distributed?

I don't know - never had NOS in my cars, so I cant pretend to know :) What I said was purely based on what I've read and heard, and it makes sense. Does this make me a magazine racer? :thinking:

As RedEJ8 says - it should be fine, but you're best bet is to ask someone with experience.

[DirtyMechanic]

PM SIIK hes sprays his AP2 s2k. i know he sprays a wet 50 and i think he sprayed a 100 too and had jets for something else too.

[Init2winit]

With that little bit of nitrous, any system will be fine.

[DirtyMechanic]

^see sig...

[ksniperfox]

my main concern was getting a dynotune to retard timing under the spray. i have a few other bolt ons that could benefit from dynotuning as well. im not interested in buying a timing control module and doing it myself, nor do i have the equipment, nor am i going to buy the equipment(wideband, etc) to try it. im not willing to chance fucking it up. rather just pay someone to do it right the first time.

thanks again, i know ive posted a thread about this before in here a long time ago, but it wasnt very specific and i didnt know what i know now about nitrous, now im getting more serious about it. reps have been given.

[EP3sAreFun]

As long your running a decent quality nozzle it will atomize just fine.

Your probably best off buying a complete kit, and letting a shop install it. They will also gradually do bigger shots until they either hit the max you want, or it stretches the limit of safety.

Thats what i did when i had my Si. I ran a 35 shot and got 50whp/50tqe from it. no timing retards and i had safe AFRs

[DirtyMechanic]

my main concern was getting a dynotune to retard timing under the spray. i have a few other bolt ons that could benefit from dynotuning as well. im not interested in buying a timing control module and doing it myself, nor do i have the equipment, nor am i going to buy the equipment(wideband, etc) to try it. im not willing to chance fucking it up. rather just pay someone to do it right the first time.

thanks again, i know ive posted a thread about this before in here a long time ago, but it wasnt very specific and i didnt know what i know now about nitrous, now im getting more serious about it. reps have been given.honestly with a car that can easily handle a 100 shot. and since you said a 50 shot. i wouldnt worry to much on tuning it with the spray. just do what you want to do with it N/A and then throw the 50 on there.

[Init2winit]

my main concern was getting a dynotune to retard timing under the spray. i have a few other bolt ons that could benefit from dynotuning as well. im not interested in buying a timing control module and doing it myself, nor do i have the equipment, nor am i going to buy the equipment(wideband, etc) to try it. im not willing to chance fucking it up. rather just pay someone to do it right the first time.

thanks again, i know ive posted a thread about this before in here a long time ago, but it wasnt very specific and i didnt know what i know now about nitrous, now im getting more serious about it. reps have been given.Run a colder plug, and take a couple degrees of timing out if you are worried about it. It will be fine even if you don't touch the timing.

[DirtyMechanic]

^or you know talk to a S2K forum and see what OTHER S2Ks have done and not when most people do with spray.

[ksniperfox]

^or you know talk to a S2K forum and see what OTHER S2Ks have done and not when most people do with spray.



probably some of the best advice in this thread.

so if i do a dry 50 shot, it should atomize ok, and the stock MAP sensor will read the extra oxygen and provide adequate fuel, so it doesnt run lean?

im going to do more research on some s2k forums and more google searching as well, but thanks again for the replies guys.

[DirtyMechanic]

with such a small shot. i wouldnt worry about doing anything extensive. like tuning and dry and blah blah blah. just throw the 50 shot wet. and be done with it. i never like the idea of dry. and letting the ECU know a few moments after you start spraying that your running lean and trying to keep up. and for that few moments its silly lean. and your worrying about fuel pooling. ive only seen that in a few cars with horrible intake manifolds. your honda... needs that air and at 240crank stock in a 2.0l or 2.2l i bet it flows just fine for a wet 50 shot. i think your worried and reading into the spray a little to much. i can see if you were going to push the limits of the stock block with spray like a 100-150shot. but with a 50... which just about ANY car can take BONE STOCK. i wouldnt worry about it. and just spray the 50 wet.

[S II K]

PM SIIK hes sprays his AP2 s2k. i know he sprays a wet 50 and i think he sprayed a 100 too and had jets for something else too.

I spray? :ninja:

[DirtyMechanic]

^punk!