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View Full Version : audiophile seeks decent set up



DrivenMind
03-23-2005, 08:42 AM
I'm a bit of a music nut, and I'm in need of a new stereo setup in the Corolla. The early 90s head until that was installed a deacde ago is no loger cutting it.

I know very little about car audio, but I have an idea of what I like.

As far as music I prefer clarity to loudness and I could careless about having a giant sub making my old crappy car rattle and vibrate like it's in the midst of an earth quake. If it's at all possible I'd like some of the audio guys to suggest some set ups (speakers, head units, (Do I need an amp?)) that are going to give me a semi-loud set up, that's going to be extremely clear. I don't want anything out rageous just something loud enough to drone out the wind when the windows are down, and still sound decent.

ah and I'd like to know of good MP3 head units

The car is an 86 Toyota Corolla GT-S, and I have no idea what size speakers it uses. (I kinda go into audio places and point at stuff).

Any help from you audio guys out there would be greatly appriciated...

redgst97
03-23-2005, 09:44 AM
I know it sounds crazy, but a bidget would be nice to know...

You can easily spend $1000 on just the head unit, $1000 on just the front stage speakers, $1500 on an amp, and $700 on 1 woofer!

So, do you want to spend $5000 for the "audiophile" sound? $3500? $1500?

I would suggest starting with a good head unit that has the features you want...something with decent output voltage, and RCA outputs for front and rear (or front, rear, sub). Next decide on speakers. There are TONS of choices out there, from $100 to $800 a set. Aluminum cone, paper cone, silk tweeter, titanium tweeter, and many other choices. Simply put, take a favorite CD to a few stores, and listen to a variety of speakers.

While you may not want to draw attention to yourself with the car rattling at a stop light, as an audiophile, you will definately want a subwoofer. There is too much important musical information NOT to have one. Do you "need" 4 12s...probably not. A properly designed enclosure for a 10 or 12 should do the trick.
I very seriously doubt you will get significant quality out of just a head unit power. I would suggest additional amps. You dont have to have a ton of power, but it helps. Make sure to get realistic power ratings on the amps. An amp that claims to make 1000 watts, but only has a single 20 amp fuse on the side...NOT gonna happen.

A good head unit, a good set of front speakers, a 4-channel amp, and a woofer, and yo should be well on your way.
Places that I might suggest: Most of the Hi Fi Buys installers are very good. Look at Traffic Jams in Buford, and CarTunes in Roswell. There are several great shops/installers around....

I hope that helped more than it confused you...

John

accented
03-23-2005, 10:12 AM
you will always need amps for crisp sound, i have never run across a headunit that will send enough power out to really bring out the sounds.

i have a 1k watt amp running my front and rear components by power acoustik, and it sounds pretty damned good. probably 300 dollars there, my head unit plays dvds/mp3s/cds, also by power acoustik, about 250 dollars, its not the best and it leaves room for improvement, but it does what i need it to do. i spent 600 on subs and amp, 2 12" woofers and a 3k watt amp, way overkill, but i like to crank it sometimes.

so a basic shopping list

4 channel amp of around 5-600 watts should be plenty for some clarity

a small monoblock amp with a small ported box for a 10" woofer

a headunit you can live with to play mp3s

redgst97
03-23-2005, 11:33 PM
5-600 Watts for a front stage??!!?? THATS a bit overkill.

Make SURE to get realistic ratings on the amps.

Also, I would not suggest a ported enclosure. By design, they have a "hump" at a certain frequency...for realistic sound, you will not necessarily want a "hump" in the sound curve... Sealed would probably be the best way to go.

Front stage amplifiers you might want to look at 50-100 watts. For the sub, probalby 250-300 watts. More power is better, but it costs more. "Head room" is a great thing to have. Ever notice how some songs have quite passages, as well as very loud ones. With enough power, the syste will reproduce this effect with much more detail/accuracy.

Personally, I have 150 watts on my mid/tweeters, 150 watts on the midbass, and 600 for a single 10" woofer. I HAVE to put up the audiophile "Flag" here and let you know, not all amplifier watts are created equally.

John

accented
03-24-2005, 09:13 AM
well a 5-600 watt cheap amp is prolly gonna be about 400 watts, 100 watts per speaker or per component set which, more times than not, includes a midbass driver.

i may have been thinking component sets when i wrote that.


i was thinking ported in case he ever wanted to crank it and get the lows out of that 10.

but if cranking is not something you think you will be interested in sealed is definately the way to go for sq.

Jaimecbr900
03-24-2005, 10:31 AM
I'm with Red on this one. Not all amps are created equal.

If it's fidelity you're after, it's expensive. If you can hang with that, then there are a few components that could easily be suggested. I'm personally biased towards Diamond Audio stuff because it's the best stuff I've personally used. I know there are a handfull of others that also have very very strong reps of being on top of the food chain as far as fidelity goes.

First you should establish a budget. Second, you should establish a priority list (do you want to give up room, are you willing to make upgrades to your electrical system, do you want super clean install, etc.). And finally, you should understand that there will ALWAYS be a trade-off when you do this.

Fidelity is much more difficult to obtain than raw SPL. You get a big box, big power, and you have high spl. High SPL is not the same as high fidelity. For high fidelity you will need clean amps, clean components, and clean install. All that adds up to $ any way you slice it. Assuming by your statements, self install is going to be out of the question. If so, then you will have to factor in for probably the most expensive part of the project; Labor. If you get fancy, custom work is even more expensive.

Moral of the story is that the rule of thumb is usually going to be; the more high fidelity you want, the more it's gonna cost. SpL is cheaper to get (for the street) but is not fidelity. For what it sounds you want, you'll probably need atleast a good HU, clean 4 ch amp, 1 sub, 1 set of components. What brand those things are is totally dependent on your budget. It could be $1000 or it could be $5000.

redgst97
03-24-2005, 12:50 PM
A cheap 5-600 watt amp is not 400 watts under typical use. POSSIBLY if loaded down to 1 ohm, at 14.4 volts, at a certain frequency with high distortion. The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".

I too have mostly Diamond Audio in my Eclipse, and would high suggest taking a listen for yourself. The high end stuff is amazing...pricy, but well worth every penny!

However, do not forget to budget for the accessories and install. Good RCA cables are NOT found at Radio Shack for $2.95. Large pieces of metal vibrate. Vibrations are NOT good to a sound quality set up... I would guess I have over $2000 in sound dampng in my car. Dynamat is your friend! Thats BEFORE the equipment and install.

Again, with a good high voltage head unit, a good set of 5.25 or 6.5 components, a (10 or 12") woofer, and a good 4-channel amp, you will be well on your way. Put the midbass speaker in the door (or kick panel if the budget is ther) and the tweeter in the a-pillar (budget for it). the 4-channel amp will run the front speakers, as well as the woofer. You might want to think about an EQ, but that can come later. Decent wire and cables would be needed. Also some sound damping...at least in targeted areas...

Tailor the system for your personal preferences. I personally like a 3-way front stage. I have tweets, 5.25 mid-range, and 8" midbass speakers in my car. I cannot find a 5.25 speaker that will play low enough to handle the mid-bass I like, and I cannot find a 6.5 speaker to hadle the female vocals. Sit in my Eclipse, and thats all you hear...tweets, 5.25s and a pair of 8s. I put in as much amplifer (GOOD AMP) power as I could. This gives the "headroom" that is necessary in properly recoded music. The music is more "dynamic".

Just my thoughts and $0.02

John

Code3
03-25-2005, 03:30 PM
A cheap 5-600 watt amp is not 400 watts under typical use. POSSIBLY if loaded down to 1 ohm, at 14.4 volts, at a certain frequency with high distortion. The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".


John

I wish I could run 14.4 volts, i have a yellow-top and im still at high 13's, not to post whore or anything, but are you running 14.4???


As for the audiophile, if i were you, assuming you're just looking for a clean sound, I'd get some infinity coaxials, 2 or 3 way, prolly run you about 80 bucks max, get some pioneer or polk 3 way 6x9's for the rear, a 4 channel 400 watt amp (they're a dime a dozen), and a kenwood, or a pioneer head unit. If you're not craving that bass then dont worry about a sub. A crisp clean sound counts for so much more man. especially on a budget, I'm guessing you can be out the door for under $600 bucks. good luck...

accented
03-25-2005, 04:20 PM
The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".

i mistook the question then, instead of taking it as an "sqphile"

btw, red knows his shit inside and out.. im just hoping one day to be that knowledgeable.

redgst97
03-25-2005, 08:44 PM
Code3:
With the car running, "most" cars will be at 14.1 - 14.5 volts...somewhere in that range. You also have to think...the car came with an alternator large enough to run the factory options...NOT an aftermarket stereo. A "basic" can pull 15-25 amps with no problem. Some factory alternators are only 50 amps....some 65. Stereo + headlights + ac = Not enough juice. Most alternators are rated at a certain temperature at a certain RPM. For example, an alternator will typically put out the most at 1800-2000 RPMs when it is warm...

I do have a custom built alternator with a variable external votage regulator. That helps a bit....

If you are running at less than 14 volts with the car running, then there might be a problem somewhere.... Check the voltage at the alternator, at the battery, at the fuse box. Try a few places that have power. See if there are any diferences. This might lead to the problem.

Honestly, I would steer away from rear speakers...especially oval speakers. Think of a concert (live music)....where is the band? IN FRONT of you...not behind you. Sound Quality and rear speaks (most of the time) do not go together. Personally, I have a problem with trying to produce a linear sound from a non-linear object. Meaning...you cant do it well from an oval speaker. Thats just my experience. I can't stress it enough....for good sound, you HAVE to have a subwoofer. 1 10" can do it (maybe even a single 8") with 150 watts....but it has to be there.

Accented:
Thanks for the props. I got into car stereo my senoir year of high school (nearly 15 years ago), and have been at it ever since. There is always more to learn....

Glad to help and throw out ideas when I can.

John