A budget LS-Turbo build list...

[teh_mugen18]

Does this look good for a stock b18b1 that i'd like to run a t3/t4 on 6 - 8psi, DailyDriven? I only want the turbo on my car to push something around 200whp. Also, i want it to be a "budget" turbo build, so that itll be the type of thing where i wont need to go and rip the motor out again...


-ARP Head studs
-ARP rod bolts
-new oem headgasket
-all cylinders have compression of 170psi out of 185psi...only ~8% loss of compression.
-dual valve springs
-new valve stem seals
-new intake manifold gasket
-new exhaust manifold gasket
-running on VAFC and AEM uego wideband o2, with AEM fuel rail, and 450cc injectors (large enough?)
-255lph Walbro fuel pump


All other vital engine parts were replaced as of October 2008, like the water pump, timing belt, oil pump, motor mounts, distributor, etc. So no worries there.

EDIT: I was going to run on a t25 on 6psi, but Team-Integra stated that t25 is too small for the 1.8liter engine and would die off after ~5k rpms... Want my engine to still last essentially forever while being boosted at the same time.

[Revmaynard]

Still probably best to upgrade to a walboro from what I've always read, but I'll let some turbo gurus throw their knowledge out better.

[helcat17]

definatly need to get a 255 fuel pump and probably a lil biger injectors around 450cc dsm's work great i wouldnt go with vafc but thats your own choice i would just get the ecu chiped and tuned mainstream performance does this and are verry good at it i ran 6.5 psi from a garrett m11 on a stock ls and got 199 on the dyno soo 200 is easy get a good turbo dont go cheap and be prepared to do more cause your gona get hungury for more boost allsoo make sure you get it TUNED on a dyno

[teh_mugen18]

definatly need to get a 255 fuel pump and probably a lil biger injectors around 450cc dsm's work great i wouldnt go with vafc but thats your own choice i would just get the ecu chiped and tuned mainstream performance does this and are verry good at it i ran 6.5 psi from a garrett m11 on a stock ls and got 199 on the dyno soo 200 is easy get a good turbo dont go cheap and be prepared to do more cause your gona get hungury for more boost allsoo make sure you get it TUNED on a dyno

Yeah, getting dyno-tuned is a definite.... I was going to rent a dyno from a place called R2B2 motors, are they good for tuning? They charge ~$150 an hour. Mainstream is my second choice....they're second because of how FAR away i am from that shop.

[slow_hatch]

Yeah, you'll need a walboro and bigger injectors. I'd suggest running a chipped ecu on Chrome etc also. If you are wanting your build to stay reliable, spend the extra on getting it tuned. If your only wanting 200whp, I'd suggest a 14b or similar size T3 to maintain budget. My LS w/ a 14b turbo made 216hp on 8psi w/ very quick spool. I'm actually upgrading to a larger T3 and still have the manifold I built and a spare 14b laying around. LMK

[slow_hatch]

PS Scotty that tunes at Mainstream is the MAN :goodjob: :goodjob:

[teh_mugen18]

PS Scotty that tunes at Mainstream is the MAN :goodjob: :goodjob:

This is true, lol... I've talked to him in the past..:D

But how in the world would i drive my 'boosted' car without any kind of tune all the way from Duluth to Powder Springs/Austell? Its just over an hour's drive...

[slow_hatch]

This is true, lol... I've talked to him in the past..:D

But how in the world would i drive my 'boosted' car without any kind of tune all the way from Duluth to Powder Springs/Austell? Its just over an hour's drive...

Just don't put your bigger injectors in and leave off the charge piping, should run like normal. Or get it towed/borrow a truck & trailer.

[d16_turbo]

you dont need arp headstuds or rod bolts

[slow_hatch]

you dont need arp headstuds or rod bolts

True, for 200whp a bone stock LS is perfectly fine. Never hurts though, b/c we all know that you won't want to have just 200hp for long. Hell mine is bone stock with over 180k miles.

[JayL]

ive got a walbro 255 fuel pump for $100 if you want it!?

[teh_mugen18]

you dont need arp headstuds or rod bolts

Head studs are for safety, just to make for sure i dont get any boost leaks or headgasket separation... Not likely, but it can happen. Plus, i hear its almost always recommended when boosting.

and the rod bolts are for more safety, because i always hear horror stories of people going boosted then later on throwing rods through their block....:( ...So, to maybe help even further in preventing this, ill just get the rod bolts to be safe lol.:D

[d16_turbo]

, b/c we all know that you won't want to have just 200hp for long.

this is true

[jessetoedtma]

Just don't put your bigger injectors in and leave off the charge piping, should run like normal. Or get it towed/borrow a truck & trailer.

Bad idea, because it will overspin the turbo-
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-387955.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=71303

What I personally do is just pull out the WG spring, and keep factory ECU/ injectors ect-

When you get to the shop throw it in and swap injectors there- shouldnt take longer then 15-20 minutes including the fuel pump

GL!

[slow_hatch]

Bad idea, because it will overspin the turbo-
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-387955.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=71303

What I personally do is just pull out the WG spring, and keep factory ECU/ injectors ect-

When you get to the shop throw it in and swap injectors there- shouldnt take longer then 15-20 minutes including the fuel pump

GL!

Correct, but if he drives it slowly then I doubt he will over spin the turbo, but that is an easy enough thing to do as well. I forgot about the fuel pump, I think in the DA you have to drop the tank to put in the fuel pump, so that might not be the easiest thing to put in in the shop parking lot lol. He might be best off just putting everything in, and having someone put on a basemap for his mods so he can putt over to the Dyno.

[Vteckidd]

so much shit on the internet

450cc injectors are good for 300whp, they are fine.

VAFC and AEM UEGO is crap, get a Crome ECU

ARP Headstuds are good, id run them personally for safety sake.

Rod bolts arent needed , just keep the revs down IE dont rev over your stock rev limiter. Boost has nothing to do with throwing a rod, over revving does.

T3/T4 is way too big for that kind of power. You want a T3 Super 60 or a straight T3 from Garrett. GT25R would be baller. T25 is NOT TOO SMALL for 200whp.

Make the drive to mainstream, you wont regret it, let scotty tune it. Theres a reason all the hondas go there.

you can build a budget kit for cheap, just dont cheap out on the Turbo (buy brand new IMO), wastegate (tial), bov(tial)

[Sammich]

i thought the same thing when i saw t3/t4 pop up, i thought t3 would be more than sufficient for 200+hp but i'm no turbo guru, so i didnt contribute my .01..i'm here for education

but IMO i wouldnt do t25 either..shit burns out (boost too quick) for me.

[00CiViC00]

i say get a t3 for your power goals .....

[teh_mugen18]

OK so, heres what the edited list looks like according to vteckidd...and all of you others who contributed lol...


-ARP Head studs
-new oem headgasket
-all cylinders have compression of 170psi out of 185psi...only ~8% loss of compression.
-dual valve springs
-new valve stem seals
-new intake manifold gasket
-new exhaust manifold gasket
-running on Crome(?)...I'd still really like to keep my vafc also...for looks...
-tuned by Scotty @ Mainstream
-tial wastegate and bov
-255lph Walbro fuel pump
-Garrett T3, or T3 Super 60 Trim, or 14b, or T25 turbocharger
-450cc injectors

Sound Better?:cheers:

[ksniperfox]

scotty made 170whp out of my supercharged D series crx....

hour and a half drive for me. worth itttttt

[scttydb411]

i can basemap your ecu so you can drive it to the shop if you want to swap the inj before coming to the shop...otherwise do what they said and pull the wg spring out since you'll be running an external wg and keep the stock inj/ecu in until you get to the shop.

pull the afc and sell it on ebay or craigslist to recoup some of your $.

t3 super 60 or gt28r would be perfect for this motor...quick spool and hold all the way to redline.

no need for the upgraded valvesprings...you're not going to be over-reving it. no need for the valvestem seals unless you're having issues w/ smoking on decel currently.

if you're going to run dsm 450cc, make sure you install a resistorbox if it's 92 or newer...if you have an ef or da then you probably already have one, but check to be sure. otherwise you'll burn out the injector drivers of the ecu.

[.:Stirfry:.]

Trust me you will be quite happy with a t25 turbo on 6-8psi.:yes:
b/c thats what is in my DA.

[yunglaosta]

Trust me you will be quite happy with a t25 turbo on 6-8psi.:yes:
b/c thats what is in my DA.

t25 for a ls turbo is the shit. going to put my t25 in later :goodjob:

[teh_mugen18]

i can basemap your ecu so you can drive it to the shop if you want to swap the inj before coming to the shop...otherwise do what they said and pull the wg spring out since you'll be running an external wg and keep the stock inj/ecu in until you get to the shop.

pull the afc and sell it on ebay or craigslist to recoup some of your $.

t3 super 60 or gt28r would be perfect for this motor...quick spool and hold all the way to redline.

no need for the upgraded valvesprings...you're not going to be over-reving it. no need for the valvestem seals unless you're having issues w/ smoking on decel currently.

if you're going to run dsm 450cc, make sure you install a resistorbox if it's 92 or newer...if you have an ef or da then you probably already have one, but check to be sure. otherwise you'll burn out the injector drivers of the ecu.

No, i've already got an injector box...

And, i thought i needed the valvesprings? Mahdavi Motorsports told me that:???:

EDIT: Plus, it happens that i already have them too.... from an old motor i was building...

[Ferio4ya]

do what sctty says!

[silversol]

i made 240hp at 12lbs with a 18g on a bone stock ls!

[Vteckidd]

you dont NEED the valvesprings.

Even if you had valvesprings, you cannot rev it RELIABLY past 8000 cause the LS rods are WEAK.

Unless you plan on running 404s or something, there is no need for the valvesprings

[bRiAnMcIvIcS]

t25 for a ls turbo is the shit. going to put my t25 in later :goodjob:

Yeah he could use the 2nd gen mitsu eclipse t25 at 8psi it would be cheap and would spool really quick.

[slow_hatch]

Yeah he could use the 2nd gen mitsu eclipse t25 at 8psi it would be cheap and would spool really quick.

Or a 14b w/ a mild steel log manifold. Oh wait, I happen to have both those items for sale :D

[yunglaosta]

Yeah he could use the 2nd gen mitsu eclipse t25 at 8psi it would be cheap and would spool really quick.

yeah he could do that. i got a volvo t25 made by garrett... wonder how quick it would spool :rolleyes: