I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?

[Mad Mike]

Motor is a Boosted D16Z6 with vitra pistons, FJ distributors custom length rods, and oem bearings.
Turbo is a TD05 14B right now but will be a 16G in a few months.

What is the best beak in mileage-How far.

Whats best slow easy driving or on jack stands in the garage?

Also I plan on using Royal Purple break in oil and then Royal Purple motor oil. Has anyone used this oil and had bad results?

Has anyone used there assimilable lube?

thanks for the help.

[jmmx258]

I use the SHIT out of royal purple, and LOVE it. Break in, really not that huge of a process. Few miles, nothing over half throttle. stay out of boost. Stop it, let it sit and cool. Check for leaks etc.

Fire it up drive it for a few more miles, and you'll be good to go. Most people greatly over do their break in process. I've built every motor i've had and have never blown one due to a bad break in.

I used Lucas Assembly lube on my last build. Drove it around the block twice, and said to hell with it and drove the shit out of it. Granted its a B20, I flogged the hell out of it 12psi for about half mile out the highway, and drove it normally for a while, jumped on it again.

Everything is still good. Most don't do it, but after break in, I know its a bitch, but I ALWAYS re-torque my head. Heating then cooling can sometimes have the studs/bolts seating or re-seating, so they'll use a good re-torque.

[BABY J]

http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203238

- also it's called "assembly" lube. People swear by different brands, but as long as it's not a "store brand" you should be fine. If u don't know if you are using enough, add some more. RP makes great products and I'd trust their lubes even in your gfs ass.

[bRiAnMcIvIcS]

http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203238

- also it's called "assembly" lube. People swear by different brands, but as long as it's not a "store brand" you should be fine. If u don't know if you are using enough, add some more. RP makes great products and I'd trust their lubes even in your gfs ass.

That is fuckin funny. LMAO!

[RX4BRDM]

Break ins are fairly over rated. Laskey and Erl and some of the larger motor/engine builders will build a motor and put it right on the dyno for tuning. If its built/put together properly with very strict tolerances then there shouldn't be any issues at all.

[81911SC]

Yea, that's why Porsche recommends it in their flagship cars. First 500 miles. I wouldn't say it's overrated.

[jmmx258]

Yea, that's why Porsche recommends it in their flagship cars. First 500 miles. I wouldn't say it's overrated.
It's called covering the companies ass.

[LSTurboHatch]

break in is not necessary for more than a few miles. just to get good lubrication throughout the motor. then seat your rings, and then retorque your head... thats the nice thing about Sohc's. retorqueing the head is a breeze....

[ATLGt]

Actually, over breaking in can glaze the walls of your block and cause blow by later on. Especially with a positive pressure engine.

[WANTED]

I'm not a big fan of Royal purple. I played with it for a while, and found it couldn't maintain that extra horsepower for very long. By preference, I use Mobile 1.

Break in is funny. There are two schools of thought, break it in hard or break it in gentle. Same thing applies to bikes. In either scenario, if the engine is going to let go, it will plain and simple. No amount of gentleness will prevent that.
Yes, all major manufacturers do say take it easy for 500+ miles and don't go over xxxx rpm, but there are two reasons for that. The first one was stated above, to cover their ass. Most people don't know how to properly break it in hard. The second is to allow the driver to get acclimated to thier vehicle. Sounds funny, I know, but some people can't get used to a new car right away, and if it's a dramatic jump in power than they're used to things could get ugly.

I say, take it to the dyno, run it thought the RPM's, and then drive it as you normally would.

[BABY J]

^^ Interested in how you tested your theory about RP not maintaining power if you don't mind.

[WalkS]

In your break in process, you actually need a load on the engine to force the rings against the cylinder walls to get them to seat. The purpose of the hatches in your bores is to file the rings to the proper shape to seal in the bores. Running the motor with no load on it might cause you to smooth down the bores to the point where the rings don't seat or will take longer to seat. So in other words, once you start the engine, beat on it...

[Goinfasterthanu]

In your break in process, you actually need a load on the engine to force the rings against the cylinder walls to get them to seat. The purpose of the hatches in your bores is to file the rings to the proper shape to seal in the bores. Running the motor with no load on it might cause you to smooth down the bores to the point where the rings don't seat or will take longer to seat. So in other words, once you start the engine, beat on it...

x2..... When balanced built mine it went from the bay right on the dyno... Brought it home changed the oil... Been boosting on it ever since...

[LIKEG6]

Put it together go do some 3rd-4th gear highway pulls then come back and re-torque the head

[turbob20]

get her runnin and while running keep eye on temp top off all all the fluids and you cut on the heater to keep from getting an air pocket the cooling system and then check for leaks while its running and then wait for the fans to come on. this means it has reached its first heat cycle and is up to operating temp as this usually takes 30 mins expecially if its cold out.. shut it off let it cool completly and thats the initial breakin. then drive in and out of boost for just a few miles to check for leaking seals on engine or turbo, then finish breaking it in like you want to drive it! it will continue to get peppier up to about 400-500 miles then taper off. and dont be alarmed if you use a little oil durring the first 500 miles.after that just change oil and TUNE.TUNE.TUNE...

[DirtyMechanic]

LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol:lmfao: :lmfao:

[TheChosenOne]

LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol:lmfao: :lmfao:
Is it pointless to re-torque, or is his justification all wrong?

[turbob20]

LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol:lmfao: :lmfao: :screwy: its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier torque spec directions..i have seen more than a couple studs free up after a good hammering.

[MR.EM1]

its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. time to go to school son...and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier directions.you better go the bells about to ring,lol.

lol i dont think you know who he is.

[turbob20]

feelings mutual,you dont know me! true i dont know him! but i do know i have 21 years experiance and no engine fatalities on my part period... my record and customers speak for themselves...all i know is it works for me and no one has the right till they prove it otherwise im wrong.

[DirtyMechanic]

:screwy: its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier torque spec directions..i have seen more than a couple studs free up after a good hammering.i have only re-torqued head studs ONCE and that was because some OTHER shop built the motor installed it and the heads lifted due to the heads not being torqued to 95lbs in the first place. but if you torque heads down to the right torque you shouldnt have to retorque them ever.

[1SOL2NV]

mike , i used RP in that z6 b4 you got it .. loved it .... but i love mobil one better just because its a lil cheaper and is good for higher mileage engines ... but on a fresh build .. id run RP till the first oil change then switch to mobil 1 .

[EmminoDaGreat]

i have only re-torqued head studs ONCE and that was because some OTHER shop built the motor installed it and the heads lifted due to the heads not being torqued to 95lbs in the first place. but if you torque heads down to the right torque you shouldnt have to retorque them ever.


I retorque headstuds all the time, many times it is unnecessary, but would you rather just take the time to check, or replace the headgasket, when it lifts?

I have seen some not need it, and some need it... And there are not too many if any honda's that require 95ft/lb's to torque there head down, so I will assume you are referring to other makes..

[DirtyMechanic]

I retorque headstuds all the time, many times it is unnecessary, but would you rather just take the time to check, or replace the headgasket, when it lifts?

I have seen some not need it, and some need it... And there are not too many if any honda's that require 95ft/lb's to torque there head down, so I will assume you are referring to other makes..i not talking about other makes. im talking about what the stud requires. just because you upgrade to studs from bolts you dont use the same torque. you torque it to whatever the fastner is rated at. like my motor L19 require 92-96 ft-lbs. so if you torque it down to the right amount the first time i dont see the point of the second time. seeing as nothing should move and loosen up because you loaded and stretched the bolt to the point where should enough tension so it cant loosen up. you should read up on out head fastners work.



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2343/threaded_fasteners_torquetoyield_and_torquetoangle .aspx

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/684/engine_series__the_straight_up_on_sealing_heads.as px

[turbob20]

heating and expansion of 2 different metals...sometimes if the stud isnt as you said correctly torqued it will work its self loose with just a nut holding it down. but if you over torque the stud tight as hell to start like on an aluminum block then as on a honda torque to say 70-73 ft pounds more on top of that as required for aftermarket head studs for honda, it might just pull slap out the threads...cast iron blocks dont have this problem.

[EmminoDaGreat]

i not talking about other makes. im talking about what the stud requires. just because you upgrade to studs from bolts you dont use the same torque. you torque it to whatever the fastner is rated at. like my motor L19 require 92-96 ft-lbs. so if you torque it down to the right amount the first time i dont see the point of the second time. seeing as nothing should move and loosen up because you loaded and stretched the bolt to the point where should enough tension so it cant loosen up. you should read up on out head fastners work.



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2343/threaded_fasteners_torquetoyield_and_torquetoangle .aspx

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/684/engine_series__the_straight_up_on_sealing_heads.as px

I guess I didnt make myself clear, most HEADSTUDS (ARP) on hondas don't require 9X ft/lbs of torque, hell I think main studs are the only thing about 80ft/lbs on a honda...... I torque everything down to what they say, but like i stated before, I have seen some loosen (maybe installed wrong who knows)and i have taken ones apart that where unnecessary.... Like I said, better safe than sorry... Its understandable that all cars are different, and some are not as easy to get to which would meen it is pointless to retorque, but if you can easily access them, and its only a few hours of your time to check, y not?

[EmminoDaGreat]

btw those are actually decent articles...

[DirtyMechanic]

I guess I didnt make myself clear, most HEADSTUDS (ARP) on hondas don't require 9X ft/lbs of torque, hell I think main studs are the only thing about 80ft/lbs on a honda...... I torque everything down to what they say, but like i stated before, I have seen some loosen (maybe installed wrong who knows)and i have taken ones apart that where unnecessary.... Like I said, better safe than sorry... Its understandable that all cars are different, and some are not as easy to get to which would meen it is pointless to retorque, but if you can easily access them, and its only a few hours of your time to check, y not? because unless you are showing signs of head lift. there is no need to. on my motor it requires the removal of the radiator, crank pulley, a/c compressor, P/S pump,, alternator, intake, intake plenum. front cover, timing chain, cam gears(all 4) and then cams. then you can get to them. i had to do this once, because at around 550whp the heads showed signs of lifting. aka coolant pooring out the overflow tank. after the re-torque, made 746whp on a DD running out of fuel. come to find out later who ever built the motor only torqued them to regular ARP2000 bolts which i think were in the 60s which is not nearly enough for the twin 20Gs.

dont get me wrong on the ft-lbs i know every motor type and even every ARP stud let it be ARP 2000 or ARP L19s they require a different torque. but if you torque them down to what they are suppose to be i have never had a head lift or HG fail. i have close to a hundred VQ motor built and all of them have seen 500whp+ easy and maybe half of them see more than 600 and 700 and a handfull above 700whp. all on a Dyno Dynamics. i have never had one of my motors fail at any point.

but i say unless your going all out and/or show signs of head lift there is no need to re-torque heads. weather it be TTY bolts or head studs. and yes i know there is that uber rare chance of something not be tightened down right and you have to go back and do it over. i did.... on the other shops bill. cha ching!!!

[BABY J]

Are there even 500 VQs in the nation w/ over 500whp??? Holy shit - news to me!! Good stuff.

[DirtyMechanic]

Are there even 500 VQs in the nation w/ over 500whp??? Holy shit - news to me!! Good stuff.you would be suprized.

[BABY J]

I'm more suprised that you personally built close to 100 --- I guess you stay pretty busy. Good stuff man.

[DirtyMechanic]

I'm more suprised that you personally built close to 100 --- I guess you stay pretty busy. Good stuff man.its not that much really. built it was the busiest shop on the east coast... built several a week. sometime took 3 day to straight built motors. have had several go overseas too. dubi, kuwait, panama.

[BABY J]

That's good stuff --- when I was into Nissan's I had Brent and the guys at PFI Speed dial in my QR25DE on the Motec. The VQ was still being developed back then and I think it only powered the Maximas.

[ash7]

I am in the prosess of...

what does "prosess" mean?

-jonathan