Any difference in...

[Sentra]

The B18C1 and the B18C5? othere than the car they came from? and how about the K20, is it better or is it the same. Help me out please...

[Whatthatslame]

B18C1 = USDM GSR something like 170Hp 121Trq 10.1 Compression
B18C5 = USDM ITR something like 195Hp 130Trq 10.6 Compression
K20A = JDM ITR 220 Hp 158Trq 11.5 Compression
K20A2= USDM RSX type s 190-200hp (not sure)
K20A3= 160 hp

K20 is def better if you have about 9-10k to spend..
But for the same amount of money you can have either one of the B-series motors just as bad ass if not more...

if your looking for swaps and installs probly Talk to Vteckidd

[D16Civic]

The B18c5 is an awesome motor that does make 195 hp or 200 hp if from japan. However, they are hard to find and cost a crapload of money over basically all other b series motors. Also, if turboing ur motor, i wouldnt suggest the c5, it has really high compression and if u screw up any, well, u might be saying bye bye to ur nice expensive motor.
The c1 is also a great motor that can be turbocharged pretty safely and it
will cost a good bit less and still has 170 hp or 180 from japan.
The K20A2 is better than both of these. Not only does it have more power but the new k series makes a good bit more torque than the b series do, however, they are goin to cost a crapload and depending what car this is goin into, it will be hard to fit and cost a whole lot more to swap in.

If i had to choose, i think i would go w/ the c1 myself.

[Vteckidd]

no need to talk to me unless he wants it installed, you guys covered everything. good points.

B18C5=ITR USDM motor
All TYPE R engines come with a Limited SLip transmission, a closer Geared Tranny, More aggressive Camshafts, better flwoing intake manifold, higher compression pistons, and a better header. those are the main differences between a B18C1 and a B18C5

Basically, depends on your budget. if you have 8-10K tp spend, K series.
if you have $6000 to spend, do an ITR swap
If you have $5000 to spend, GSR swap
you get the point. what is your budget that would help us out alot more

[Sentra]

Well im selling my car for 12500 and thinking of buying an integra, probly without a motor, so i will not have to spend TOO much on just a car. but I only have the issue of just only haveing a performance car, when I also do the show stuff to, so a nice paint job, rims, the engine, and the coilovers. So if you could help me out now i would appreciate it.

[Allshow97]

This is what you do you buy a shelled EK like mine, Drop about 4-5k into a GSR Swap after all that if you sell your car for 12,500 you still will have about 6k to play with as far as paint performance and other showstoppers are concerned. Just my :2cents: Plus hatches just look so damn sexy.

[Sentra]

sorry but i dont really look good in a civic. haha.

[Allshow97]

Fuck having yourself look good, its the car that matters. Hell I am short and stubly but I get hella compliments on my car even though it is Purple and I sometimes wear my pinks shirts :)

[Sentra]

haha yeah, ill look into it, i do like those cars, maybe ill just 5% the windows so no one can see me hahahaha. kidding....

[speedminded]

haha yeah, ill look into it, i do like those cars, maybe ill just 5% the windows so no one can see me hahahaha. kidding....yummm...$12k cash to spent on building an integra. I wish I had more free time to help you find a car and parts, i'm always up for a good challenge. Honda-tech.com is a good source for parts, just make sure the seller is reputable, ask for references, etc.

First of all, each step you take is probably going to cost about 25-50% more than you originally expected.

Look for a clean titled '94-95 RS/LS. That will probably be your cheapest option (base cost & insurance) and if you want the newer frontend the '97-'01 bumper and headlights will bolt right up w/o a problem. Expect to pay $3-5k, depending on the mileage and condition. You could always look for a stolen recovery from a auction for normally much less.

I'd start with getting it rolling, an ITR 5 lug conversion is something you can do for $400-800 or so which will give you alot more options on "nicer" wheels, better suspension setup, and enable you to sell the original brakes to a civic owner. Tons of suspension is available for either way you go....I'm a big fan of Tein but by browsing the forums you can just find a great deal on something out there. I'd set aside $1k for a basic coil-over dampener setup and installation, whatever the brand may be. Of course you can spend upwards of $1k on each corner. If you wanted to keep the original suspension I can get you a full ground control coil-over dampener setup (not the sleeve) for about $800, which is normally over $2,000 then add another $500-1000 for a decent brake upgrade. I'd say a minimum $2k for wheels, brakes, and suspension...if you look really hard.

Engine...
K20a2 from the Civic SI will be alot cheaper than the K20a3 from the RSX but with either one you'll need a mounting kit and several other things that aren't already on the DC2 body you buy. It will probably be $4-5k+ for the swap (and transmission & parts) then add in $1k for labor and unexpected expenses. I've seen clean (not stolen) A3's with tranny sell for under $4k several times.

I like the B-series because one day (!!!) the k-series will eventually take over the market and the price of b-series parts and upgrades will drop. Unless you're going turbo i'd probably refrain from the [GS-R] B18C1. For the cost of GS-R or ITR swap you could build a great LS/VTEC or B20/vtec turbo. You'll have alot more expenses down the road with a turbo setup though.

With a mid-grade suspension and decent engine setup you've practically spent your budget but could easily spend double. A full repaint done correctly will cost about $3k...it can be done under $2k but you get what you pay for. Fix up the interior, maybe a rollcage, etc...it all depends on what the main purpose of the car is...show, go, or a little of both.

I spent your budget on just my car, '01 GS-R with 37k miles then put in a brand new B18C5 rolling on Tein Flex...let's not add my stuff up $$$ :tongue:

[Jon00]

yummm...$12k cash to spent on building an integra. I wish I had more free time to help you find a car and parts, i'm always up for a good challenge. Honda-tech.com is a good source for parts, just make sure the seller is reputable, ask for references, etc.

First of all, each step you take is probably going to cost about 25-50% more than you originally expected.

Look for a clean titled '94-95 RS/LS. That will probably be your cheapest option (base cost & insurance) and if you want the newer frontend the '97-'01 bumper and headlights will bolt right up w/o a problem. Expect to pay $3-5k, depending on the mileage and condition. You could always look for a stolen recovery from a auction for normally much less.

I'd start with getting it rolling, an ITR 5 lug conversion is something you can do for $400-800 or so which will give you alot more options on "nicer" wheels, better suspension setup, and enable you to sell the original brakes to a civic owner. Tons of suspension is available for either way you go....I'm a big fan of Tein but by browsing the forums you can just find a great deal on something out there. I'd set aside $1k for a basic coil-over dampener setup and installation, whatever the brand may be. Of course you can spend upwards of $1k on each corner. If you wanted to keep the original suspension I can get you a full ground control coil-over dampener setup (not the sleeve) for about $800, which is normally over $2,000 then add another $500-1000 for a decent brake upgrade. I'd say a minimum $2k for wheels, brakes, and suspension...if you look really hard.

Engine...
K20a2 from the Civic SI will be alot cheaper than the K20a3 from the RSX but with either one you'll need a mounting kit and several other things that aren't already on the DC2 body you buy. It will probably be $4-5k+ for the swap (and transmission & parts) then add in $1k for labor and unexpected expenses. I've seen clean (not stolen) A3's with tranny sell for under $4k several times.

I like the B-series because one day (!!!) the k-series will eventually take over the market and the price of b-series parts and upgrades will drop. Unless you're going turbo i'd probably refrain from the [GS-R] B18C1. For the cost of GS-R or ITR swap you could build a great LS/VTEC or B20/vtec turbo. You'll have alot more expenses down the road with a turbo setup though.

With a mid-grade suspension and decent engine setup you've practically spent your budget but could easily spend double. A full repaint done correctly will cost about $3k...it can be done under $2k but you get what you pay for. Fix up the interior, maybe a rollcage, etc...it all depends on what the main purpose of the car is...show, go, or a little of both.

I spent your budget on just my car, '01 GS-R with 37k miles then put in a brand new B18C5 rolling on Tein Flex...let's not add my stuff up $$$ :tongue:

good post man :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:

[Sentra]

im still not sure what to do, because I really want to be a little of go and show, but when I pop the hood I would love to have a K ANYthing in there, just to say hey check this out. But I ALSO want to turbo it right when I get the motor, unless if I have a reason not to. Like money. or lack of it. But if a b18c5 rolls around 200 stock then the turbo added would be good enough right?
But like I said, I would also want to do the interior. But thats nothing but maybe a sub or 2 some racing seats, OH and one of those carpets in a certain color of the car, i like that. But othere than that. Im not exactly sure what I should do. The Civic hatch and the integra both appeal to me. I mean EATHER one turbo'd is gonna be very nice. But im just not sure which way to go with the car, or even after that.

Tell me what you guys think i should do. Right now Im leaning to the integra, just because I have always liked those. But Im also leaning to the Civic because , well I just like those to. haha. But tell me what you guys think I should do. :blah:

[D16Civic]

your probably looking at around 175ish hp to the wheels with the b18c5 and if you do turbo it just make sure you get it tuned properly, ive heard these motors cant handle mistakes very well.

As for which car to get, its kinda just what you think looks better, but if your wanting to get whichever one will be the faster of the 2, id say to go w/ the civic cuz they weigh less than integras.

good luck on whatever you decide to do :goodjob:

[ZakDC5]

yummm...$12k cash to spent on building an integra. I wish I had more free time to help you find a car and parts, i'm always up for a good challenge. Honda-tech.com is a good source for parts, just make sure the seller is reputable, ask for references, etc.

First of all, each step you take is probably going to cost about 25-50% more than you originally expected.

Look for a clean titled '94-95 RS/LS. That will probably be your cheapest option (base cost & insurance) and if you want the newer frontend the '97-'01 bumper and headlights will bolt right up w/o a problem. Expect to pay $3-5k, depending on the mileage and condition. You could always look for a stolen recovery from a auction for normally much less.

I'd start with getting it rolling, an ITR 5 lug conversion is something you can do for $400-800 or so which will give you alot more options on "nicer" wheels, better suspension setup, and enable you to sell the original brakes to a civic owner. Tons of suspension is available for either way you go....I'm a big fan of Tein but by browsing the forums you can just find a great deal on something out there. I'd set aside $1k for a basic coil-over dampener setup and installation, whatever the brand may be. Of course you can spend upwards of $1k on each corner. If you wanted to keep the original suspension I can get you a full ground control coil-over dampener setup (not the sleeve) for about $800, which is normally over $2,000 then add another $500-1000 for a decent brake upgrade. I'd say a minimum $2k for wheels, brakes, and suspension...if you look really hard.

Engine...
K20a2 from the Civic SI will be alot cheaper than the K20a3 from the RSX but with either one you'll need a mounting kit and several other things that aren't already on the DC2 body you buy. It will probably be $4-5k+ for the swap (and transmission & parts) then add in $1k for labor and unexpected expenses. I've seen clean (not stolen) A3's with tranny sell for under $4k several times.

I like the B-series because one day (!!!) the k-series will eventually take over the market and the price of b-series parts and upgrades will drop. Unless you're going turbo i'd probably refrain from the [GS-R] B18C1. For the cost of GS-R or ITR swap you could build a great LS/VTEC or B20/vtec turbo. You'll have alot more expenses down the road with a turbo setup though.

With a mid-grade suspension and decent engine setup you've practically spent your budget but could easily spend double. A full repaint done correctly will cost about $3k...it can be done under $2k but you get what you pay for. Fix up the interior, maybe a rollcage, etc...it all depends on what the main purpose of the car is...show, go, or a little of both.

I spent your budget on just my car, '01 GS-R with 37k miles then put in a brand new B18C5 rolling on Tein Flex...let's not add my stuff up $$$ :tongue:


the k20a2 is in the usdm rsx type s. the k20a3 is the engine in the civic si and base rsx. lol just thought i fix that for ya :blah:

[speedminded]

your probably looking at around 175ish hp to the wheels with the b18c5 and if you do turbo it just make sure you get it tuned properly, ive heard these motors cant handle mistakes very well.

As for which car to get, its kinda just what you think looks better, but if your wanting to get whichever one will be the faster of the 2, id say to go w/ the civic cuz they weigh less than integras.

good luck on whatever you decide to do :goodjob:The civic should be cheaper too start with too, but i'd only get an EG or later hatch. It's also better to keep your options open, you may be looking for a DC2 but then come across a great deal on a hatch....both can be as equally clean if done right. The engine will probably be the greatest cost, just keep your eyes open and keep browsing all the forums....

The B18C5 is a stronger engine, internals are better, etc...but you gonna have to pay more for it.

Anyone remember Mark with the blue hatch up in the mtns.? B18C (JDM ITR), stripped w/ full rollcage, polished racing harts, insane suspension..spoiler & splitter just like mine...he built that entire car with $10k, actually he spent $12k because he got screwed on an oem ITR conversion online but he only had $10k into it and i would bet that is one of the top 5 fastest/best handling street cars in those mountains.

Oh yeah, when looking for the engine you'll realize 50% of the B18C5's are scams...i busted several people on eBay and classified ads "selling" them. DO NOT buy anything you can't see unless it's from a VERY reputable distributor or say seller on Honda-tech, alway's ALWAY's check for references with wherever you go or YOU WILL get screwed, i can promise you.

If you're confused about the B18C...in japan the B18C is both the SIR-G (gs-r)and ITR [while here you have the B18C1 & B18C5], the only way you can tell the differance is by the LSD stamp on the transmission and P73 (itr) or P72 (gs-r) stamped on various engine parts. The valve cover will be red on the ITR too. You will find people trying to sell B18C's as type-r's when it's really just the sir-g. The JDM ITR transmission is practically worth its weight in gold....the tightest gears & highest final drive of any b-series made...but not good for turbo...you need the taller gears for the turbo to spool and hold the boost. I think the LS transmission, with maybe minor gear changes, is the best tranny for turbo...it's also the cheapest to get.

I probably lost you at "if you're confused" lol :tongue:

[speedminded]

the k20a2 is in the usdm rsx type s. the k20a3 is the engine in the civic si and base rsx. lol just thought i fix that for ya :blah::goodjob: yep got them backwards...helps to proofread sometimes. Should we get into the differances between the A2 and A3 and really confuse the hell out of him? that's why i didn't go into detail about it yet :tongue:

If you want this hatch you can have it as is for $6,500. It already has an LS integra engine with a B16 transmission (tighttt gears)...wait, maybe it'll have a GS-R transmission in it if i don't switch it out. But I have a LSD in mine and that can't go with it so i'd have to switch that too. Anyways, if you want it you could easily sell that engine and transmission for $1,500+ spend the 6k you have left over on mounting kit and a K20A2 :D or you could find and A3 and turbo the hell out of it. It already has decent suspension and looks good...needs to be wet sanded and resprayed before getting to a show quality level though.

Since it has the integra engine in it already then you could sell the long block, keep the transmission, and put a turbo b-series in it with the money left over and then you wouldn't have to worry about changing out the engine mounts, just have to run a couple wires to upgrade to a VTEC engine. Just think...rockin a hot turbo hatch and having a little money left over to take all the girls out that will be humping your ride :hump: :D

[Sentra]

Is that the picture of the hatch that your want'n to sell? if it is give me your number and we will talk. I like that, but yes, i really wanted to be able to keep it in show. even if its stock inside i atleast want to pain to be clean, and same with the interior.

I enderstand that the newer hatch is lighter, plus i like that style better. but will a ls tranny fit in it? or would i keep more money in my pocket if i just buy an ls and put the motor in there? And what about the hondata s-series ecu upgrades, do those really make a difference. Only one i have heard about is the s100 because it dosnt have the cvtec feature. which one would be better to buy?

[speedminded]

Is that the picture of the hatch that your want'n to sell? if it is give me your number and we will talk. I like that, but yes, i really wanted to be able to keep it in show. even if its stock inside i atleast want to pain to be clean, and same with the interior.

I enderstand that the newer hatch is lighter, plus i like that style better. but will a ls tranny fit in it? or would i keep more money in my pocket if i just buy an ls and put the motor in there? And what about the hondata s-series ecu upgrades, do those really make a difference. Only one i have heard about is the s100 because it dosnt have the cvtec feature. which one would be better to buy?yep, that's the one for sale...it should be home sitting in my shop in an hour or so. The owner keeps telling me he wants to sell it then the next day he'll say he's found a K-series to put in it...we can never make up our minds. I'll make sure today is a "for sale" day and pm his number later.

...anywhere you can fit a b-series engine you can put an LS tranny...all the transmission's share the same case so they will all interchange between b-series engines. If he decides to sell and you want go turbo then i'll put in my 2001 GS-R transmission...I'll have a hard decision to make about leaving my oem ITR LSD in it for you though.

The ecu upgrade will depend on what engine setup you want to do...i think i know someone with a couple spare OBD1 S200 Hondata's for a great price but would need a bunch of add-ons for turbo. Then you have Motec and a few others but I like the idea of Apexi's Power FC or AEM's standalone which can be tested and tuned yourself with a laptop but VTECKIDD knows of several more options... i'm running a stock ITR ECU with just a VAFC...plan to upgrade soon but no need until i get the ITB's (individual throttle bodies) built, come across a good deal on cams and a valvetrain, etc...just one step at a time.

[Whatthatslame]

I enderstand that the newer hatch is lighter, plus i like that style better. but will a ls tranny fit in it? or would i keep more money in my pocket if i just buy an ls and put the motor in there? And what about the hondata s-series ecu upgrades, do those really make a difference. Only one i have heard about is the s100 because it dosnt have the cvtec feature. which one would be better to buy?
The older you get the lighter they get.. but the k20 doesnt fit that well in the EF...
and they are the prettiest on the road...

Sounds like Speedminded is hooking you up...
goodluck with you build to come...

:goodjob: on the Red Si