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Benefit
12-17-2008, 04:39 PM
well, im gunna be changing out my valve seals, headgasket and timing belt and other various things in a couple days...and im gunna need some help since it will be my first time doing a honda, ive done SR20's...i know the concept and everything but i would like someone with me to watch over and help out...

if anyone is up for the job ill appreciate it alot and ill also give some $$ for the help

thanks in advance

ps: i can do it myself, but i would like someone with more experience

X-Runner
12-17-2008, 05:07 PM
Where you located? Ill come by whenever.

Benefit
12-17-2008, 05:07 PM
im in suwanee, what about u?

EmminoDaGreat
12-17-2008, 06:17 PM
You can just air the cylinders, and then change the valve stem seals simply by popping off the springs/retainers.

Benefit
12-17-2008, 06:21 PM
You can just air the cylinders, and then change the valve stem seals simply by popping off the springs/retainers.

i might do that

EmminoDaGreat
12-17-2008, 06:24 PM
Its easier, you can even use nylon rope and fill the cylinders so the valve doesnt fall in. But air is an easier way. Then you wont have to change a headgasket, if its not blown. Then just take the rest of the covers off and do the timing belt/wp.

Benefit
12-17-2008, 06:25 PM
Its easier, you can even use nylon rope and fill the cylinders so the valve doesnt fall in. But air is an easier way. Then you wont have to change a headgasket, if its not blown. Then just take the rest of the covers off and do the timing belt/wp.

o shit...i was thinking about that man...i was just gunna post and ask but knowing how this is IA, people would be like "oh thats ghetto" and what not...i think the rope way would be better because i dont completely trust the air

EmminoDaGreat
12-17-2008, 06:26 PM
I always use air, but some people prefer rope. To each his own.

IntegraXTR
12-17-2008, 06:41 PM
why are you changing the timing belt, seals, and headgasket? wasn't your motor freshly rebuilt 3k miles ago? You even posted in your thread that you have reciepts for the rebuild and everything is fresh. But judging from some of your pics, its seems that there is a small oil leak in the headgasket.

I was planning on purchasing your car in jan. but now everything seems kinda fishy to me.

Oh, and I would remove the head, its makes everything easier (to me atleast). And you're also suppose to get your head resurfaced before putting a new gasket on or it will just end up leaking again.

Benefit
12-17-2008, 06:43 PM
why are you changing the timing belt, seals, and headgasket? wasn't your motor freshly rebuilt 3k miles ago? You even posted in your thread that you have reciepts for the rebuild and everything is fresh. But judging from some of your pics, its seems that there is a small oil leak in the headgasket.

I was planning on purchasing your car in jan. but now everything seems kinda fishy to me.

Oh, and I would remove the head, its makes everything easier (to me atleast). And you're also suppose to get your head resurfaced before putting a new gasket on or it will just end up leaking again.

that is from the head missing 2 bolts for the header (another reason i wanna take off the head)...and bad valve seals...you guys really need to get your information straight before jumping the gun, seem like a bunch of idiots to me.

headgaskets need to be swapped out each time u take off the head, timing belt didnt need to be changed but i would do it anyways...you seem like u know your stuff man!

and the motor has 8k on it so far, theres no leaks from the headgasket

my only concern by doing it the rope way is turning the motor once for the middle 2 cylinders to come up and then losing track of timing...but i guess it can be re-done...

the valve seals need to be changed 2 cylinders at a time if i were to do it that way right?

thats so retarded....fishy, ha...car runs perfect,all day, every day

IntegraXTR
12-17-2008, 08:10 PM
wow you do have a smart ass attitude, I was just stating my honest opinion. I wasn't jumping the gun, it was an assumption.

A full rebuild would consist of: rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, timing belt, water pump, honing the walls (especially if your motor was over 100k, or you can't see the factory cross hatches anymore), resurfacing the head and possibly getting the block decked while you're at it. But like you stated, the timing belt didn't need to be changed. But hey, what do I know, I'm just another guy on ia jumping the gun. Did you also know that you have to do a valve adjustment after you torque everything back down to spec? whats the valve lash suppose to be set to? How much of a deflection should the timing belt have when tensioning it down?

I've done enough internal work to know what I'm talking about. And apparently, you don't know your "stuff" because you're on here asking how to do it. If you don't know how to do it, then I suggest paying a professional to change those item(s) out for you.

Tech5
12-17-2008, 08:27 PM
:goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
You can just air the cylinders, and then change the valve stem seals simply by popping off the springs/retainers.

Barefoot
12-17-2008, 09:43 PM
And you're also suppose to get your head resurfaced before putting a new gasket on or it will just end up leaking again.not really u want to check for warpage with a straight edge before cutting the head. as long as he takes it off right and doesnt have blown head gasket. check it and if its good your straight.

STRteg
12-18-2008, 12:59 AM
^^^yup thats right if its warped in any way it will continue and eventually set the side off,then you gotta replace it and blah blah blah

Benefit
03-06-2009, 10:24 AM
anyone want to help me tonight? im not taking off the head...i bought valve seals, a compression tester tool to keep the valves up....and a autozone valve spring compressor, but i dont think it will work...

anyone have a valve spring compressor and down to help?

X-Runner
03-06-2009, 10:25 AM
Drive to Norcross... lol

ash7
03-06-2009, 10:36 AM
anyone want to help me tonight? im not taking off the head...i bought valve seals, a compression tester tool to keep the valves up....and a autozone valve spring compressor, but i dont think it will work...

anyone have a valve spring compressor and down to help?

use a 14mm socket and extension to pop the retainer off.

dont lose the keepers though, two per valve.
-jonathan

Barefoot
03-06-2009, 10:48 AM
use a 14mm socket and extension to pop the retainer off.

dont lose the keepers though, two per valve.
-jonathanhe still got to get them back on.

Slomaro Z28
03-06-2009, 10:56 AM
I have a valve springs compressor, But I'm far away and the head has to be off to use my compressor.

ash7
03-06-2009, 11:38 AM
he still got to get them back on.

say whaaaaaaat? lol

just gotta use that kung-fu grip!
-jonathan

im_hung
03-06-2009, 03:36 PM
try to get one of these... so much easier to do your seals with one. it'll take you about an hour to replace your valve seals. (using air to keep the valves up)


this TOOL (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=78777&group_ID=1578&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

good luck

Benefit
03-07-2009, 02:46 PM
I NEED ONE RIGHT NOW!!! SHIT WONT WORK!!LEAVE UR NUMBER IF U CAN HELP PLZ