I need help with my N/A build

[Tree]

well i went b series after 2 d series and now i want to do a n/a build. but i have a b16, and i want to do a skunk2 tuner stage one or maybe a stage 2 cam set. but i wanted to know if i should upgrade the Valve Spring and Retainer on the motor, also what ecu should i run i was thinking the p28 chipped, and whats the best place to get the motor tuned?

[southside]

Depends on budget!

[Tree]

i'm not worried about how much i'm spending and that was not the question..

[southside]

i'm not worried about how much i'm spending and that was not the question..:thinking: Actually that is a good factor when building a motor.If you just have a unlimited budget get Ferrea everything for the head.Best place for tuning Battleground or Mainstream,and ecu p28!

[Tree]

i'm looking at like 5g on the head..

[motormike40]

Yes, on the valve springs and retainers, because with higher then stock lift will accelerate the wear on the springs, causing that to maybe fail down the road. If your going to do it do it right the first time, if not you'll eventually pay for it in the long run. For Ecu's you should just get yours chipped (pretty cheap ~75$) or run a chipped p30 or p28 (can be close to 200$). I'm not too sure about running the p72 ecu with a chip, I'm thinking it shouldn't matter since it'll be reading tables off the chip. But don't quote me on that TOOL BAG!

[Vteckidd]

this is the advice i gave someone on HT, he had a 00 SI so keeep that in mind:


On a b16 id just go with a Short ram AEM, its really not going to make that big of a difference on what you are trying to do. Comptech Ice Box is nice too from what i have seen.

Tri-y header is a good choice if you are on a budget for sure.

After that i would look at a Skunk2 Stage 1 (NOT PRO 1) Camshaft upgrade or a Buddy Club 3+. I prefer the skunk2 cams though. THey are slightly more aggressive than the ITR cams .

After that i would purchase a Skunk2 PRO Intake manifold.

After that i would purchase a VAFC if you want to keep your car OBD2, or a Crome Pro ECU and conversion harness if you are ok with converting to OBD1. TUNE TUNE TUNE

should pick up a good 10-15whp no problem.

other than that i wouldnt do much more mods as the b16 just doesnt make the power unless you go inside the motor. I would maybe do a light flywheel and thats it.

good luck
__________________

$5000 on the head is rediculous, there is no need for that and you will be very dissappointed.

what i would do is this and in this order

1) SKunk2 Stage 1s or BC3+ (no need to change the valve train)
2) RMF Replica header or Hytech replica header (i sell both)
3) Skunk2 Intake manifold
4) Crome Pro ECU (i sell it)
5) Tune TUne Tune

other than that its not worth doing much more as the B16 just lacks tq. if you want to do something more id suggest starting with a GSR

[NEMO]

i'm looking at like 5g on the head..
on a b16? why not just throw a H in it for that much:goodjob:

[IntegraXTR]

listen to mike, its the truth. I couldn't get the power I wanted out of my EM1 so I just ended up selling it and got back into another dc2.

However, there are ways to make power if you're not on a budget, go pick up a copy of omniman's 200whp b16. Torqueless, but he did prove that 200 wasn't that far fetched.

As for the $5k on the head, use that money and get a 1.8-2.0 block, then can obtain more power at a cheaper cost.

If you're really serious about the build, I have a set of toda spec b's brand new in the box that I've been saving for the past year (been debating on which car/motor to use them in).

[IntegraXTR]

well i went b series after 2 d series and now i want to do a n/a build. but i have a b16, and i want to do a skunk2 tuner stage one or maybe a stage 2 cam set. but i wanted to know if i should upgrade the Valve Spring and Retainer on the motor, also what ecu should i run i was thinking the p28 chipped, and whats the best place to get the motor tuned?

listen to mike, its the truth. I couldn't get the power I wanted out of my EM1 so I just ended up selling it and got back into another dc2.

However, there are ways to make power if you're not on a budget, go pick up a copy of omniman's 200whp b16. Torqueless, but he did prove that 200 wasn't that far fetched.

As for the $5k on the head, use that money and get a 1.8-2.0 block, then can obtain more power at a cheaper cost.

If you're really serious about the build, I have a set of toda spec b's brand new in the box that I've been saving for the past year (been debating on which car/motor to use them in).

[Tree]

well when i say 5k its not just the head.. but i want to get that out the way for now. i just want something quick. right now .. how would those todo cam hold up to the stock motor?

[Tree]

this is the advice i gave someone on HT, he had a 00 SI so keeep that in mind:



$5000 on the head is rediculous, there is no need for that and you will be very dissappointed.

what i would do is this and in this order

1) SKunk2 Stage 1s or BC3+ (no need to change the valve train)
2) RMF Replica header or Hytech replica header (i sell both)
3) Skunk2 Intake manifold
4) Crome Pro ECU (i sell it)
5) Tune TUne Tune

other than that its not worth doing much more as the B16 just lacks tq. if you want to do something more id suggest starting with a GSR

how much for the ecu and the header? oh yeah with the header what power gains would i get form it

[Vteckidd]

10-15whp from the header and ECU , dyno proven check my thread.

$400 shipped for the header

$160 for the ecu

[Tree]

and its a p28 what chip dose it have?

[Vteckidd]

crome pro

[Tree]

i will hit up when i get my money should be real soon

[motormike40]

Or maybe you should run no intake pipe so vtecH pops louder. That way you can scare off the competition and save your money!

[IntegraXTR]

well when i say 5k its not just the head.. but i want to get that out the way for now. i just want something quick. right now .. how would those todo cam hold up to the stock motor?

some users had good experience with toda b's with stock internals, minus a 2-layer headgasket and milling the head about .30 to raise compression. I've seen 170ish dyno's with stock b16s. But then again, thats just some users, doesn't mean you'll get the same outcome.

Toda's have large primaries to carry over into vtec (these cams like high vtec engagement). Also, you won't get the full potential of the cams without bumping compression, 11:1 and up should be fine.

As far as you want "something quick for now" its not going to happen with a stock b16. With CTR cams or 00-01 ITR cams and the tri-y headers, you should be able to obtain decent power. Only downfall is you will have to rev to make power considering its a 1.6 (shorter stroke = higher revs).

[jap_racer1]

just get dual springs some nive retainers take it to a good machine shop get your shit switched and definately pay somebody else to put it together from how you talk make sure its not one of your friends either!! and once its running allright take it straight to scotty at mainstream he is good at what he does and if you got 5g's and you want power get you either a GSR and put B16 pistons in it and a set of cams with dual springs or go K20!!!

[Jdm94Coupe]

tree just be patient and do it right! so you wont have to get another motor and try it again...... i say gsr block and use your head.... dont go str8 b16.... just my opinion