I blew my motor and looking at a new setup. What do you think?

[Mad Mike]

Well I pushed her to hard and the stock bottom end couldn't handle it so I'm doing research to build it with forged low compression parts. Here's what I'm thinking so far.
Video carnage of my motor:(
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdBAjtBaXAk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL7Lvme4SsY


Motor is a D16Z6

Block
Vitara pistons 8.5:1CP
Not sure on the rings yet (the vitara pistons come with them but not sure on the quality)
Eagle rods
ACL rod and main bearings
ARP head and rod bolts

Head
already P&P
Crower stage 2 turbo cam
Skunk 2 springs and titanium retainers
Skunk 2 valves

Turbo
TD05 14B (may upgrade to a 16G)

Intake
HKS air filter
65MM JG throttle body
stock Z6 intake manifold ported to match the throttle body
3 bar map sensor
Ebay intercooler kit (flows really good and is the perfect size for the CRX)

Fuel
DSM 450cc (will probable have to upgrade these when the boost goes up to 15+ psi)
webro 255 fuel pump
P28 ECU with chrome pro

Plus I'm redoing the down pipe 2.5" with smother bends and better ground clearance. My entire exhaust is 2.5 and is strait pipes to a Flowmaster axle back.

Right now to rebuild the motor with the parts I want is at about $2500 + any machine work that needs to be done.

What do you think of this setup or do you recommend any other parts.

[EmminoDaGreat]

Dont forget 3 bar map sensor etc... and little things like that... LMK if ya need some parts!!

[Mad Mike]

I got a 3 bar already. I'll add that in.

[KillTheCrow]

How far did you push it before it blew up? And your planned set-up is what I'm working towards myself, but I'm probably going with Vitara rods and I'm not sure which pistons.

[00CiViC00]

i would get a lil bigger turbo and a different manifold ...

[AnthonyF]

If you are not sure on the quality on the Vitara rings, don't get their pistons. Go with CP or Wiseco.

-Anr.

[Mad Mike]

yea that list is just the parts I looked into last night.
A lot of people on HT in the sohc boosted thread are running the vitara piston. But was starting think about going with a know name brand plus the vitara pistons are not forged pistons.(just found out a few min ago)


I've put 800miles on the motor since it was tuned and last weekend I was on 985 with a long open stretch of hwy and opened her up. My shift light came on in 4th gear and then let off. My GPS said I hit 123mph. I thought I heard something when I stopped but it was just a light tick.
Fired her up yesterday for the first time since last weekend and it was loud. Took it for a ride to pick up a new hood and it got louder.

[EmminoDaGreat]

Vitara's will be fine they are forged.

[Mad Mike]

that what I thought but someone told me they were not and I was about to look into it.
I really like the price of them that's the main reason for picking them that and the 8.5:1CP. I guess I will end up going with them and the ring that come with them are NPR GAS NITRITE N-51 TREATED PERFORMANCE RINGS.

[mitch lab]

Vitara's piston is cast

[green91]

Vitara pistons are cast, however the ringlands are further from the top of the piston and are also cast in a very strong manner. They have been proven sucessful for 400+whp. If you get vitara pistons, stick with NPR pistons & rings. Im actually using NPR rings in my current motor with no problems (approx 10k in the engine)

[00CiViC00]

im thinking about the same setup but with some diffrent rods that will give me a lil more compression..... and a stock head , cause all i hear is afermarket cams breaking with high hp single cams

[EmminoDaGreat]

damn, I thought they were forged !! Oh well, they are tough for a cast piston then!!! Make great power...

[Axix23]

forget the d, and run a b-series or a k20

[Mad Mike]

forget the d, and run a b-series or a k20

No. B and K = BIG $

They both would be cool but its way out of my $ range for both.

[OG-Skinny]

you do know that the Bottom end rebuild kit with rods/pistons/rings/bearings is only $600 right?

FJT is the shiznit.

[Mad Mike]

you do know that the Bottom end rebuild kit with rods/pistons/rings/bearings is only $600 right?

FJT is the shiznit.

is this for stock or forged internals?

and what is FJT?

[FasTech]

Just find you a nice cheap B20 long block and go from there. Just my opinion.

[green91]

fjt distributors carries vitara pistons and eagle-style h-beam rods.

[BTEC]

id get a block guard, not sure what manifold ur running but the design does matter, and if u can upgrade the turbo id do that too.

[Mad Mike]

fjt distributors carries vitara pistons and eagle-style h-beam rods.

Ok I know who your talking about now. I'm going with there
Turbo Superkit for Honda civic with D16Z6 Engine:

-YCP Vitara pistons (75mm / 75.5mm / 76mm)
-Wrist pins and C clips
-Piston rings (Hastings or NPR)
-Timing Belt
-Water Pump
-ACL Rod Bearings
-ACL Main Bearings
-ACL or King Thrust washers
-Full engine Gasket & Seals set--> Its all the gaskets and seals you will need for your engine from the oil pan and up to the head.Metal 3 layer Head gasket (approx .030 thickness)
http://fjdistributors.com/images/DSCN1768.jpg

[SpooL'DGsR]

good luck with the build.....

[green91]

Theres no point in running vitaras with stock rods lol. You'll have to run more boost just to get the same power you had before and still not really have any headroom to handle more hp.

[green91]

Plus, since youve got a rod knock its hard to say exactly what you'll need to repair it, throwing a set of bearings isn't always enough. Infact id say if a 4th gear load ate a bearing your engine wasnt healthy anyway. If your crank requires machining or you spun a bearing stock size bearings wont suffice.

[green91]

Throw in a set of these:
http://www.tunertoys.com/TunerToys_H_Beam_Connecting_Rods_D16_D15B_JDM_p/r3-5394-ah.htm

i believe they come with ARP rod bolts. Also id recommend not using the ARP head bolts but use head studs instead.

ive had several d-series turbo setups and have been planning/researching a similar build for about 2 years now.

[Goinfasterthanu]

Mike your just going to go down the same road again arent you? Get forged pistons and rods!! Then be done with it. Have it put together by someone who knows what their doing . Your just going to blow the motor again... For like the 5th time i have been here done this..... Please dont waste 500$ in parts and all the work just to have the motor do the same thing.....

[Goinfasterthanu]

Oh and with those pistons its going to be a slow wet dog out of boost....no compression.. exp with that head gasket

[green91]

FJT has extended length rods to correct the compression issue. No need for anything other than an OEM MLS headgasket & studs

[Goinfasterthanu]

FJT has extended length rods to correct the compression issue. No need for anything other than an OEM MLS headgasket & studs

Their still a cast piston.......

[green91]

right and... the ringlands sit lower below the top of the piston as well as being made from a better casting process . MANY guys have done 300+whp safely with them (and they are inexpensive)

[OG-Skinny]

Here's some motivation for you...

http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf


D-series with FJT kit. Oh... No need to mention it runs constant 10's on slicks.. :D

[xdavidscenex]

x2
fjt distributors ftw

[Goinfasterthanu]

right and... the ringlands sit lower below the top of the piston as well as being made from a better casting process . MANY guys have done 300+whp safely with them (and they are inexpensive)

Ok and say in a few months he wants to go for say... 500whp.... then those will be a waste of money.. Buy it one time its a lot cheaper..... just my 2 cent..

[green91]

500whp D? Good luck! Hes got a stock block and honda stock sleeves wont hold that power.. i seriously doubt it will happen without a sleeved block. IT largely depends on his power goals, but within reason of whats attainable with a d-series block & parts, these budget parts seem to be a good cost. Especially considering hes using a 14b lol.

[Mad Mike]

I'm only after 200-250 max HP. I have no plans in the future to go anymore, at least with a SOHC.

[Goinfasterthanu]

I'm only after 200-250 max HP. I have no plans in the future to go anymore, at least with a SOHC.

Thats what i said before i got 200whp{ even though i dont have a D }.... look at me now... its like a really bad drug you cant stop... Good luck on your build....

All i was saying is if you went forged and stayed under 300whp the setup would last for EVER with a good tune. And if you ever wanted to go with more boost you could use the pistons and rods again.... No matter how big your plans got. I have bought things over and over as i upped the boost more and more.... But in the end its your car....

[miro_gt]

I'm only after 200-250 max HP. I have no plans in the future to go anymore, at least with a SOHC.

you don't need to build the block for that power, run stock D16 with ARPs only.

how did you blow the other one anyways ?

mine makes 232whp/206wtq at 14psi (thought I run more) with fat powerband on a stock D with the small 15G that pushes over 60k miles already and still running strong :D

[B_Hoov]

sad day...but i saw this coming. lol here is a list of what i have in mine and i HIGHLY recommend doing to yours, my motor should be 400-450whp all day long in my EF hatch with no sweat.
78mm JE pistions w/ optional ceramic coating 9:5:1 600$
JE rings (came with pistons)
78mm AEBS sleeves 400$ w/machine work
eagle H beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts 350$ (have to shave girdle)
micro polished/balanced crankshaft 150$
Z6 head w/goodies
ARP head studs 100$


there are many different ways to go about this, lose ur HF manifold for starters, yea it's a way to budget boost but...a nice ebay stainless is 200$ if u want to go cheap, im running rc750cc injectors and highly recommend them, i will be selling them to upgrade to 1000's and i will hit you up when i do. you will need an aftermarket fuel rail unless you modify your z6 to flow hella more fuel like i did mine, i can do yours for 100$ but you'll need a much better FPR on the end of it, the best advice i can give, do it all right now, and do it right, i only have 3k in my y7 and EVERYTHING from the oil pan up is brand new from honda, pan,pump,pickup,waterpump,timing belt,tesnioner pulley, leave no stone unturned

[KevinT707]

Just curious, how much power were you making before you blew it up? I'd like to run after everything is said & done.

[B_Hoov]

last dyno he was making 190whp

[k3tsurui]

I have all those parts that you are looking for and a lot more...vitara pistons, eagle rods, turbo manifold, etc...everything that you will need to go boost. I am selling them for a lot lower than what you can get them for and I am local so you are welcome to come check them out...lmk asap...I was going to put them on ebay but if I could sell them them locally, then better

[Goinfasterthanu]

Just curious, how much power were you making before you blew it up? I'd like to run after everything is said & done.


run me run me....!! Whats up Kevin... We should race sometime when ever your out somewhere other that barrett....I can bring the nitrous h22 hatch or my boost...

[slow_hatch]

sad day...but i saw this coming. lol here is a list of what i have in mine and i HIGHLY recommend doing to yours, my motor should be 400-450whp all day long in my EF hatch with no sweat.


Lol :lmfao: We will believe you once you actually do it :goodjob:

[-S Double C-]

500whp D? Good luck! Hes got a stock block and honda stock sleeves wont hold that power.. i seriously doubt it will happen without a sleeved block. IT largely depends on his power goals, but within reason of whats attainable with a d-series block & parts, these budget parts seem to be a good cost. Especially considering hes using a 14b lol.

I made 511whp on stock sleeves at 29.5lbs on my fully built d series reving to 9100. Your full of shit it can be done and has been done many times. Will it last? hmm who known depends on how you drive your car. If it sits like mine did and see's full boost twice in 3 months then nah you should be fine. If your out raping it every weekend and once or twice during the week then no your ass will crack a sleeve quick. Unfortunately i had a hole get into my wastegate line on pump gas and it grenaded. Here's my theory for you, Ive got a BALLER ass spoolin performance ramhorn manifold you can by for 480 and i have a back up z6 block with 9:1 srp pistons, scat rods, and acl race bearings with 0 miles for 700 ill sell. If you shooting for a little over 400 run a .60 cold side t3/t4 with a .63 hot side. If you want upper 400's to mid 500's use a gt30 with a 70 a/r cold side and a 71. hot, or a t3 60-1 with a 70 a/r and .63 hotside. That is what i use. I also have some more parts if your interested. No bullshit parts either.

[-S Double C-]

b hoov if you had a head setup like mine with my cam and all and ran the right turbo you could break 550-600 if it's really sleeved

[B_Hoov]

b hoov if you had a head setup like mine with my cam and all and ran the right turbo you could break 550-600 if it's really sleeved


thats too much for my dd hatch man, i saw your head and it's not quite as built lol.


Lol :lmfao: We will believe you once you actually do it :goodjob:


^why you gotta be like that brad? lol motor is in the car ready to go, gotta run more wires through the firewall for 2 extra injectors, vtec, 4 wire o2, used a friends (grnteg) jumper harness to straight solder my obd1 plugs onto my obdo harness, i have everything i need but it's too damn cold to be doing that today! im also running a rebuilt turbo from a powerstroke diesel thats good for 450whp, will post pics of my intercooler later. 28x4x14 lol had to do some trimming!

[-S Double C-]

i hope you make good power as well, RedDemon on this site has a nasty D that should be tuned soon that will make 400+. Im buying a 99 si tomorrow and im gonna build me a 500whp DD setup for it so it might be a few more months before i get my D put back together.