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View Full Version : Power Mods My K20 rebuild thread



chunky
11-10-2008, 02:50 AM
I know there's not a whole lot of k20 action in the Atlanta area, especially naturally aspirated, but I assure you, I own the dubious distinction of having blown up more k20 motors than anyone else in the state. Along with that comes rebuilding experience, and I'm going to share a bit of my latest rebuild in this thread.

After 20,000+ miles, my 230ish hp 9000+rpm k20 bit the dust. More specifically, the cylinder #3 piston bit the dust.

What cylinder #3 looked like
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/02.jpg

What the rest looked like. You may be thinking to yourself "my, what a clean burning engine he has!" Why thank you, I like to think I know a thing or two about tuning. :p
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/03.jpg

Rods & pistons laid out
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/04.jpg

In case you wondered why they're called "H" beam rods.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/06.jpg

Long story short, these were CP 12.5: pistons with a thermal barrier coating on the top and anti friction coating on the skirt. I was planning to run a healthy shot of nitrous, but I never got around to it. The pistons were installed with a piston to wall of 0.0035" or 0.0036" which is okay for an n/a motor. However, what happened in the 20+K miles that she lived is that the piston to wall clearances never tightened up to what they should have been when the engine was at operating temperature. As a result, the pistons were loose in the bore and the bottom edge of the skirts all showed irregular wear. Cylinder #3 was just the first to go. The skirt fell apart and then the piston turned sideways in it's bore. :p

So based on that experience, I decided that this time around I'd go for pistons made of a lower expansion alloy. The only off the shelf pistons for a k-series made of 4032 are the supertech.

Here's some comparison pics of the CP pistons vs. the supertech pistons.

The CP has a much more nicely sculpted dome with a wider peak. However, the Supertech has visibly deeper valve reliefs and yields the same 12.5:1 compression. Just from the way the top of the CP piston is machined versus the Supertech piston, it's not difficult to see why there is a significant price difference between the two brands.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/piston_pics/comparison1.jpg

The Supertech has a wider skirt that is also a little longer. The crown of the piston is also a little thicker. The supertech piston also has less taper from the crown to the bottom of the skirt. This makes sense as it is constructed from an alloy that expands less as it heats up.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/piston_pics/comparison2.jpg

On the underside of the piston, it's again clear why CP costs more. It's got much nicer machining on the underside of the piston. Dual wrist pin oiling holes are present on the CP piston. The supertech piston does have a thicker skirt. The wrist pin is also shorter on the supertech piston. The CP piston will accommodate a much wider rod, although that doesn't matter much if you are using stock width crank journals.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/piston_pics/comparison3.jpg

I got the block back on Friday and measured it out today.

All cleaned up.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/rebuild1.jpg

The plateau hone looks really good.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/rebuild2.jpg

My inexpensive bore gauge that gets the job done. I have to do some interpolation to read between 0.0005" increments. Also, the reading shown here is 0.00225" over since the gauge zeroed out on my piston measurement halfway between zero and one mark to the right.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/rebuild3.jpg

So, the other thing I wanted to do tonight was get a better idea of if the piston to wall clearance I specified to the machine shop was suitable or not. Last night I made up a worksheet in MathCAD to calculate the expansion of the pistons based on coefficients of thermal expansion I looked up for 4032 and 2618 alloys. Those numbers indicated I'd end up with a hot clearance of 0.0011", which seemed reasonable. However, I grew up watching mr. wizzard and bill nye the science guy, so I had to take things a step further and determine the CTEs experimentally.

MMMMMMM, pistons, they're what's for dinner. Note that I marked the measuring points with a marker to ensure measuring precision. Supertech pistons on left, one CP piston and one OEM piston on the right.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/rebuild4.jpg

They're cooking now!
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/rebuild5.jpg

After crunching the numbers, results were actually reasonably close to what the values I looked up were. Well, for the 4032 and 2618 alloys. Obviously there was no table with specific information on CTEs for the OEM piston material as CTEs for cast material vary widely depending on the specific way in which the piston was cast. But I'm getting sidetracked.


CP CTE: 25.7 versus 24
Supertech CTE: 23.2 versus 21
Stock piston CTE: 16.9


As you can see, the 2618 alloy does in fact have a higher CTE than the 4032 alloy. As expected, the CTE of the stock piston was much lower than with either of the forged pistons. The mathematical model says that the OEM piston to wall in a hot motor would be 0.0002" to 0.0010". With the piston to wall I specified on this motor, my hot clearance should be right in the middle of the OEM range, 0.0006". In short, I chose wisely. Piston to wall is tight enough to help maximize longevity, but not so tight that I'd have to worry about seizing the motor if I run her hard on a hot day.

For kicks, here's a screenshot of my MathCAD worksheet.
http://www.razid.com/images/piston_expansion_math.jpg

I also measured the expansion at the piston crown. The aftermarket pistons generally expanded a good bit more along their thrust faces at the crown than along the wrist pin axis. The CP pistons were within 0.001" along each axis. the Supertech pistons had an average difference 0.006" between the two axes, with the longer axis being the thrust face of the piston. The stock pistons were slightly oval as well having a difference of 0.002" between the two axes, with the longer axis being the thrust face of the piston.

What I find interesting is that although the CP pistons were more round at the crown than the stock pistons, the stock pistons had much more even skirt wear. This highlights two factors that set apart truly great pistons from the rest.


having a truly round shape at temperature
having a skirt profile that matches the bore at temperature


Now, I'm not sure how the Supertech pistons will stack up, but it would seem that the CP pistons left a little to be desired in the piston skirt profile. Makes you wonder why some companies charge $1600+ for a set of four pistons and what kind of intrinsic value is engineered into the product.

That's it for now. There's a lot of work left to do before I get this motor together. Hopefully, she'll be stronger and longer lasting than the last. :)

Dr.G35
11-10-2008, 07:06 AM
pretty cool. your the one on ep3hatch.com that did the cam upgrades correct?

chunky
11-10-2008, 09:36 AM
pretty cool. your the one on ep3hatch.com that did the cam upgrades correct?
That would be me. You used to have an ep3?

Vteckidd
11-10-2008, 10:30 AM
this will be a great thread, go get them chunky

EmminoDaGreat
11-10-2008, 10:32 AM
lol chunky. damn, always getting deep into it..

WhiteAccord
11-10-2008, 10:34 AM
Lots off good information.

00CelicaGT
11-10-2008, 11:41 AM
my head hurts from all that math! good job though on crunching all the #'s and comparing the 2 after they've been heated

chunky
11-10-2008, 12:48 PM
this will be a great thread, go get them chunky

and Mr. KiDD said "let there be VTEC" and VTEC rang throughout the universe. Even though you don't own a honda anymore, traitor.

I can't wait to get this build together. All the lessons I've learned so far will go into it. :p

chunky
11-10-2008, 12:48 PM
lol chunky. damn, always getting deep into it..
haha, you know how I do. I gotta swing by mainstream sometime since I'm back in town.

Vteckidd
11-10-2008, 12:50 PM
and Mr. KiDD said "let there be VTEC" and VTEC rang throughout the universe. Even though you don't own a honda anymore, traitor.


Thats signature worthy right there!

I know this is going to be the best one yet, i can hear my old motor trembling

chunky
11-10-2008, 02:49 PM
Thats signature worthy right there!

I know this is going to be the best one yet, i can hear my old motor trembling

Hah. We'll see. I will say that this will be the most painstakingly assembled motor I've ever done.

Dr.G35
11-10-2008, 05:10 PM
That would be me. You used to have an ep3?
yep it was a black one with bronze rotas. i had some cams that i was going to bring down to you but sold my car before i did :(.

Axix23
11-10-2008, 05:39 PM
k20 rep!!!

JDMirza
11-10-2008, 11:22 PM
Damn, good luck!

GSRtegŪ
11-11-2008, 04:06 AM
Looks like you know what your doing. :goodjob:

chunky
11-15-2008, 01:38 PM
Thanks for the support guys!

In other news, look what the FedEX lady brought . . .

Looks pretty ordinary.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/cam_pics/cams1.jpg

Oh look! Some pretty new cams!
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/cam_pics/cams2.jpg

http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/cam_pics/cams3.jpg
The standard bearing 2.0L K-series cam has evolved to keep up with the big headers, manifolds, and high compression builds that were not around when the original IPS K2 were introduced. The K2 Mark II still represents the choice for a stock block. I went with the K2 Mark III because of my ported head & high compression bottom end.

Also, that is the first consumer set. :ninja:

Da_unknown
11-15-2008, 02:12 PM
welcome back chunky...can wait to see this 1

EJ_Allmota
11-16-2008, 12:08 AM
Damn homie.. another one bites the dust... but opens the gates for a better build.. looking forward to this one man..

chunky
11-19-2008, 03:39 PM
While doing the trans work, I noticed some things about the 4.764 bearing vs the 5.062 bearing. I ended up messing up the 5.062 bearing b/c I dropped it in without putting the oil guide in first, and then I was unable to get it out via heating the case. The slide hammer & puller ended up jacking up the plastic part.

http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/countershaft_bearings.jpg

left = 4.764 bearing from ep3, right = 5.062 bearing from JDM CR-V

The snout diameter of both countershafts is 1.376", so the bearings are interchangeable.

The first thing you'll notice (besides the piece of plastic missing from the bearing on the right) is that the 4.764 bearing has more numerous but smaller rollers. 11 rollers vs. 10 rollers. I measured the outer race size of both bearings, 2.672" diameter x .781" thick. However, differences appeared when I measured the length of the rollers. 0.5191" vs 0.5111" long, 4.764 vs 5.062 respectively. So the the rollers on the 4.764 bearing are ever so slightly longer. Not a functional difference IMO.

Being that the cost of the two bearings is pretty much the same, with the 4.764 bearing being slightly more expensive, I'm going to use that one since having 11 points of contact around the countershaft should be better than having 10.

B18lshatch
11-30-2008, 11:32 PM
Very wise man Chunky, Hopefully there will be more of this, i got a headache but im trying to learn, i think i read this twice already.

chunky
12-01-2008, 07:48 AM
I've been busy with other stuff lately and haven't gotten too much done. I'll take some pictures and update. Motor probably won't be together until mid December, after finals.

dabuilding
12-01-2008, 12:44 PM
damn this is cool man gl on it

TheChosenOne
12-01-2008, 02:50 PM
Good shit! Good luck with the build.

TeamFX_K24a4
12-24-2008, 05:07 PM
chunkys cams,chunkys toda tct mod, chunkys bad ass ep3- chunky u the kseries guru
madd reps on ur knowledge

94b20gsr
01-04-2009, 04:28 AM
Engine built yet?

chunky
01-18-2009, 11:44 PM
Finally cracked open the packaging today.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/01.jpg

These things really are a work of art. It's a shame they won't be visible once they're in the motor. The finish on these cams is incredible. The fitment in the the cam gears is snug. All the lobes line up perfectly.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/02.jpg

K2 Mark III, first consumer set.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/03.jpg

With the intake advanced fully & the exhaust retarded fully, you'll run into some problems. This is with the lash set at 0.011", the "hot" spec for the cams. :wow:
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/04.jpg

I found the "minimum" clearance point. Well, in practice you won't want to be anywhere close to this point. I actually found that at 0 retard on the exhaust, things are pretty tight to begin with. There really is not much need to retard the exhaust cam as the exhaust centerline appears to be set very aggressively to begin with. However when I have time, I'll play around with retard on the dyno sometime, and I need to know my limits for that.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/05.jpg

In case you were wondering what peak lift on the exhaust side looks like.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/06.jpg

And peak lift on the intake side.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/07.jpg

Coming up next, claying the motor.

Vteckidd
01-18-2009, 11:58 PM
bout time i have a header i need to test on your car. get that shit back together

chunky
01-19-2009, 12:02 AM
bout time i have a header i need to test on your car. get that shit back together
LOL. we can test it against my donkey powered Hytech that should be done any day now.

Da_unknown
01-19-2009, 12:18 AM
yo call me when this goes down..

chunky
01-19-2009, 05:51 AM
Just got done claying the motor.

Just lay a few strips of clay in the valve reliefs & quench areas. Set the intake cam to max advance and the exhaust cam to max retard.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/08.jpg

Exhaust clearance looks good.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/09.jpg

Intake clearance is pretty tight. Still, I have more clearance this time around versus the Skunk2 cams & CP pistons. 50deg advance should be OK in the low/mid RPM range, but you'd want to limit yourself to 45 as the revs climb just to be safe.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/measurements/10.jpg

jmmx258
01-19-2009, 11:58 AM
From personal experience CP pistons are not worth the money they go for. I ran into the same exact problem with my dirtbike. I had their 14.2:1 piston in my KXF 250. Took it to a LL Am Nats qualifier, and lunched it in practice. As it turned out their skirts are their weak point. My piston rocked in the cylinder and now I need complete head and cylinder assembly. Either way, GREAT build!!! Sorry to see you hit the same CP piston curse I, and a few other people I know have run into.

chunky
01-19-2009, 01:27 PM
From personal experience CP pistons are not worth the money they go for. I ran into the same exact problem with my dirtbike. I had their 14.2:1 piston in my KXF 250. Took it to a LL Am Nats qualifier, and lunched it in practice. As it turned out their skirts are their weak point. My piston rocked in the cylinder and now I need complete head and cylinder assembly. Either way, GREAT build!!! Sorry to see you hit the same CP piston curse I, and a few other people I know have run into.

I've heard from a few other guys with CP k-series stuff that they've had skirt problems. At this point, I don't know if it's b/c their spec sheet clearance is too loose or if it's just a weak point in the design.

I do know that from now on I'm going to stick to 4032 for street motors b/c of the tighter piston to wall you can get. Anytime you can reduce the piston to wall, the longer the motor will last.

Starrfire
01-22-2009, 12:52 AM
WOW, super high lift on the cams, GL...

chunky
02-12-2009, 08:07 AM
At long last,

SHE'S ALIVE!

The new 2.0L n/a beast coming soon to a dyno near you. :)

DarKStaR
02-12-2009, 03:01 PM
sweet! keep us updated on numbers.

chunky
02-12-2009, 06:56 PM
will do. I think by next week I'll have enough street tuning done to get her on the dyno.

ejohnson88
02-12-2009, 07:23 PM
Very Nice Chunky :D I am in for numbers! Glad you got everything together!

chunky
02-13-2009, 12:54 AM
Very Nice Chunky :D I am in for numbers! Glad you got everything together!
haha, what's up man. Howcome I never hear from you anymore?

Hit me up sometime, I'm on campus pretty much all day.

chunky
05-04-2009, 07:19 PM
Just thought I'd update this thread with my latest progress. I ditched the old 3" exhaust and went with a new 2.5". Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJG7KTGeaQM

Fancy oval tip. Not perfectly centered, but pretty close. Had to make some concessions b/c of how the muffler was angled in the underbody cavity.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/exhaust/1.jpg

I wanted to have the muffler before the rear suspension.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/exhaust/4.jpg

The benefit is no weight hanging off the rear of the car. Just a void where most mufflers go. You can see the band clamp used here over a slip fit joint. It was a tight fit, but it works with 2.5" pipe.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/exhaust/2.jpg

Again, a band clamp used on a slip fit joint. These are great for flow & ground clearance.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/exhaust/3.jpg

Check out that ground clearance. Way better than with my old 3" exhaust.
http://www.razid.com/images/blown3/exhaust/5.jpg

Again, big thanks to Charles @ Mainstream Performance for TIG welding it all up just the way I wanted it. It wasn't easy to make the bigass muffler work in that location, but he got it done.
:cool: