DIY:Paint car for cheap-show car results

[1NonlyAccord]

Well since many of yall wanted a DIY from seeing my thread of $150 paint job.
http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37123780#post37123780

*Note i am not profesional nor do I act like I am,This is simply a cheap solution to painting the car right at your house. I also am not respolsible for anything that goes wrong when doing this to your car!
-I have my basic certification of body work and paint so i already had experience doing this!!

Here it is.
*note how mine was $150,i already had the DA,compressor,and misc items.


Also I am not trying to take business away from paint shops nor make profits off this.If I do itl be private and on the side. This is strickly for people like me who do NOT like other people working on there car and like to do things themselves.

**ALWAYS wear proper respirator and vinyl/latex gloves(not responsible for allergic reations),No matter how big and bad you think you are,these are very harmful chemicals!-**

Supplies from:
Advanced auto

www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com)

http://www.finishmaster.com/
269 Hurricane Shoals Road NE
Lawrenceville, GA 30045
770-513-1711

Tools Needed;








1--Air compressor 10gallon or more-I used 10gal brute. 2.5hp
(walmart- $99.99)
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1157.jpg

2.--6" DA(Dual Action sander)-*note mines not from Harbor freight*
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1161.jpg

$19.99 Harborfreight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90288
Or PREFERD $29.99 for easy palm sander
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93742

3.7" Rotary polisher/buffer-IMPORTANT--with adjustable speeds! mine: 300RPM-3000RPM from harbor freight. on sale now $34.99
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1167.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623

4.spray gun;Gravity feed,pref. HLVP
MINE; Sharp SGF-HLVP (1.4mm tip)
cheap harbor freight ones will be fine:
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=spray+gun&Submit=Go
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1164.jpg

*Note- Air pressure reg. with gauge-$4.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36797
-Red thing; disposible inline water filter -IMPORTANT TO HAVE!!! i belive also $4.99 at harbor freight

--paint cup; disposible ones for paint-easy clean up, used one with gun for clear.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1166.jpg

-5pc disposable paint cups-$6.96
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97098

--12 x 60yrds Roll of masking paper,masking tape, Drop cloth
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1168.jpg
-masking paper-$3.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98149
-Masking tape $$ depends on store you go to..anywhere from $3-6
-Husky disposable drop cloth 13x16ft-$1.99 x 2
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37070

-Sandpaper:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1170.jpg
DRY.
6" disk-400g,800g
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1162.jpg
3m WETORDRY;
800g,1000g,1500g,2000g
prices vary diff store(advanced auto)

--Rubbing compound,Polish-swirl remover, buffing pads;
*I used turtle wax, its OK for the price..i LOVE -3m Perfect it 3000 line up but expensive!

3m white foam pad-for compound
3m Gray foam pad-Polishing/swirl remover
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1160.jpg


now onto chemicals;

Paint- I used shopline-decent color match is a SHADE darker then bumpers.
i got a quart mixed up.for whole car i would say get 2quarts for errors ect.(will have left over)

then advanced for-
Specalty reducer, Laquer thinner,Actone


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1163.jpg



-then to finish master(autocolor) for clear coat kit- I used there SMART kit.
gallon of clear, Medium activator.-$66 and some change.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1158.jpg

also picked up 2 mixing cups- .34cents each-
they throw in paint sticks and strainers for free!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1159.jpg


ok i think that wraps it up for supplies..Like i said, I got most of the supplies at harbor freight, the paint and other chemicals i got from advanced,finish masters ect.

Lets get started. ill post pics of what i have,most ill explain=

1.You want to go ahead and give your car a quick rinse off using dishwash soap like dawn or something. Then dry off.

2.put a car into either garage, or in my case car port.-Make sure its ok with neighboors,parents ect before starting.It is against the law to paint with out proper ventalzation..shhhh..

3.Take off bumpers,mirrors,headlights,tail lights, ect-OR tape them off really good!!

4.Get out the air compressor and DA..if painting new color or full over.then get your 400gritt paper and go to work! carful of the edges since if goes through to metal or something the color will be slightly off on those areas.
-Once you are happy with sanding everything down-blow off the lost dust(i used my paint gun.lol since i dont have a blower)
-get all the lose dust off the car from cracks,door jambs.ect.
-Get out your prep wipes or wax grease remover and give it a nice rub down.

5.Tape off all the edges,window moldings,ect(if not taking off)
-Tape inside the door jamb,both on car and actual door.
-Tape the back edge of fender and hood area right there
-Tape inside and cover gas cap with newspaper and tape!!!
just general tape off everything you need.-MAKE SURE NONE IS TOUCHING WHAT YOUR GONNA BE PAINTING OR YOU WILL GET A TAPE LINE OR spot where the color is deff ect.

6. you and or a buddy get the husky drop cloth out and start taping up the car-window,roof,ect..if doing all over then use the masking paper and tape up the windows and leave what you want painted open.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1001.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1007.jpg


7.Once everything is taped up and your happy and are ready to spray. go over it again with the blower,and wax grease remover and tack cloth.

8.get your paint,Reducer and mixing cup out...follow directions on the mixing ratios; shopline is 1:1 ratio..so find on the cup 1:1..
1 part color and 1 part reducer..stir and mix well.
-get the strainer and poor paint into cupgun through the strainer.

9.Get your gun set properlly! use masking paper on the wall and practice them..
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/hvlp_paintgun_basics.htm



10. get your tack rag out-you will need this alot..wipe car down once again!
-depending on what you are painting find the best way to enter and exit the panel..always start the paint off the panel and end off the panel.
-making a 50% over lap each pass.holding the gun 6-9" away from the panel.
-the base color is just to get the color-NO shine will be from this.do not run the color, all you need is a lightly dust over it
-Wait atleast 10+mins inbetween coats(follow paint directions) need atleast 3.
**in between coats wipe the panel down with the tack rag again! keep the bugs,trash out best as possible.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1002.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1003.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1008.jpg
11. After you are happy with the coverage and base color let it sit for 15mins for the solvents to escape. tack rag again.

12. Get the clear,acvitavor out..follow step 8 again;
Smart clear uses a 4:1 Ratio- so 4 parts clear and 1 part activator.
-mix well,and strain into cup.
-tack the car off AGAIN.
-spray a nice wet coat of clear using 35/40psi depending on the gun and clear specs.
-wait 15mins inbetween coats for it to "flash"

*if you see bugs,hair,runs ect..dont worry-you are still not done.

13.After you lay a good 3 ful wet coats of clear, leave it over night.(or when ever it dosnt feel tacky before start sanding)

14.The next morning go back out and get a 5gallon bucket or something to hold water for wet sanding! soak the paper in the water for 10mins before starting
-get out all your wet sandpaper packs and any left over paint sticks.
-break the paint sticks in half
-depending on orange peel or trash is what determies what paper you want to use.. normally just start off with 1500g and go to town.
--but since mine was so bad: i started with 800G and worked up to 2000g.
**NOTE do not skip in grits. (800g,1000g,1500g,2000g,)
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1132.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1135.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1131.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1130.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1129.jpg

*note your car should not look this bad if proprly set gun! but if it does..dont worry itl be fine-just ALOT more work sanding.:(

-General rule of thumb is find a happy medium when sanding.not unless you are looking for show quailty then sand baby butt smooth,if not then some texture is ok-due to ALL cars from factory have orange peel.

-as some say,Sanding is not for the faint of heart,touching your freshly painted car with sandpaper:thinking: thats wack! but no-its the most important step in getting what people say as slick as glass feeling.
*also sun reflects better with the flatter the paint is,cars with orange peel the sun dosnt reflect as well and you notice the blobs.*

-Take your time getting trash,orange peel out. It took me 1hr+ per panel.just dont give up..its well worth it.

-after you sand it down,you will have what looks like a ghostly white car with the color barly showing behind it.dont worry!!
follow the pics below to show the result after wet sanding.also very messy.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1182.jpg



-Wrap the sand paper around the paint stick;
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1183.jpg

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1184.jpg

sanding always keep area wet! have a rag to put water on panel to wash away trash and residue.



http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1179.jpg


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1180.jpg


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1181.jpg



**im doing this by hand, to do it faster and less physical work- go pick up a pack of 50-3m 1500g DRY 6"disk for your DA.its about $60a box.then another box of 20 i belive 3000g WET another 50/60$ itl cut your time in HALF but also alot more money..your pick. also its easier to mess the paint up using the DA sanding..so if you pic that way,be carful and watch your edges and where your sanding.-Maybe looking at one spot and not knowing your hitting another and burn straight to the metel..it happens.
-Get your buffer out and grab the WHITE foam pad and RUBBING COMPOUND. work it slowly-this is very messy and gets everywhere!!!
-keep the buffer flat and KEEP IT MOVING!!! try to stay away from the edges for long period of time.and also do not keep it in one place,you can and will burn through the clear/paint and cause it to bubble up.
*so this part is NOT for everybody to attempt..serious damage can happen from this stage to your fresh paint.*

-as the foam pad spins on the paint and the compound, a chemical reaction happens and heats up-getting rid of the scratches and brings the paint back to somewhat of shine. do this till all scratches are out and its not dull anymore.


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1188.jpg



http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1185.jpg


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1186.jpg


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1187.jpg




wipe off the residue with a CLEAN micro towel.^ **photos show both compound stage and polishing stage.**
Then you are left with this;
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1191.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1190.jpg


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1189.jpg



you notice you have white compound spattered everywhere,loaded up in the cracks and jambs.-I told you its very messy and time consuming. You are almost finish=


Last step is just give it a really good wash with a soft micromet or soft something. Make sure to open doors,trunk,hood get all the jams cleaned off. *the longer you leave this sitting the HARDER it is to scrubb off!*


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1192.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM_HdRe70Ts

-Then get the gray pad and polshing past...do it the same way as compound. this will remove lighter scrathces,and will bring the shine back into the paint..also some polishes are swirl removers as well-make sure you get that or you will have those ugly swirl marks you see on black cars-No offense- haha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DyXplehnhw

results of hours of work and cheap paint job!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1145.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1147.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1155.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1152.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/mr_crispy1011/CIMG1153.jpg




Please if i left anything out,ask and i will edit!!!
Thanks,
Good luck

[masonhenson]

reps

[MaRk2k]

nicee

[BKiller]

Overall good instructions.
That is a ****load of orange peel though!!!
I never tack rag between coats because you are essentially wiping wet paint.

[Complete]

rep.. i might have to try this too

[Atlblkz06]

Thanks a lot, thats a very complete DIY.

I know this took quite some time to write, and we appreciate it very much!

[Nerdsrock22]

Thanks a lot, thats a very complete DIY.

I know this took quite some time to write, and we appreciate it very much!

x2. Not that I would ever have the balls to do this, but very informative.:goodjob:

[1NonlyAccord]

Overall good instructions.
That is a ****load of orange peel though!!!
I never tack rag between coats because you are essentially wiping wet paint.

after you let it flash and dry to the touch then tack it off..color will come off on the cloth but dosnt effect anything..i just did it this way since i wasnt not in a control environment paint booth,ect

[5spdfrk]

I don't normally do the reps thing, but I'm gonna give you some for that. Nice write up! I'd like to see more like this on IA. Thanks.

[Farrow2005]

Thats not bad at all!!

reped

[RandomGuy]

great thread!
everyone rep this man

[Sport1.3]

This needs to be a sticky!!!

[Atlblkz06]

You can end up burning your paint if you're not careful with a professional (non-random orbit) buffer/polisher.

I dont think everyone knows this, please add this to your DIY thread.

Thanks!

[1NonlyAccord]

added^..i thought KEEP IT MOVING is kinda explaintory.but i explained it out.thanks

[1NonlyAccord]

Im gonna get out tmr,and resand the passenger side down and ill take some pics do add. i know text gets confusing and im sure alot of yall are like me and skip the reading and want to see pics..haha

[stephen]

i was a big fan of the "flat-look" when you were first having trouble with getting the clear to come out right. are there any sort of special instructions when it comes down to wanting a flat-looking paint (like...do you still use clear coat, etc.), but still get a smooth touch?

[1NonlyAccord]

i was a big fan of the "flat-look" when you were first having trouble with getting the clear to come out right. are there any sort of special instructions when it comes down to wanting a flat-looking paint (like...do you still use clear coat, etc.), but still get a smooth touch?

if you want that flat look then go with duplicolor paint shop clear..haha that did nothing so i guess itl protect the base color and keep you flat.

[Bruce Leroy]

where did you get the paint from???

[1NonlyAccord]

I had a guy from my old job get it for me some place in Glenwood. but im sure finish master mixes paint up to?
i got the clear from there.

[1NonlyAccord]

EDITED:::added pics of wet sanding process;tmr will get shots of buffing! keep posted

[Ruststang]

Good write up... I fix orange peel and trash/ blend marks at work all day lol

[1NonlyAccord]

Good write up... I fix orange peel and trash/ blend marks at work all day lol

appreciate it..i use to buff allllll day long..it sucked. worked at a place called absolute auto body..did progressive and geico cars so we had like 20+cars aday to buff,,suckkkked

[WalkS]

Awesome write up! :goodjob:
Worked at a body shop for 3 years, so i understand the hassle. Especially since you did it by yourself.
Reps...

[1NonlyAccord]

Awesome write up! :goodjob:
Worked at a body shop for 3 years, so i understand the hassle. Especially since you did it by yourself.
Reps...

ya i only worked at mine for half a year..but its crazy..it was falling apart when i left..i was getting to pissed off..i didnt need that.so i quit and applyed to college to start a good life ahead.

[mitch lab]

:goodjob:

[1NonlyAccord]

updated;pics of buffing process,and a wash.

[gsrteg]

bump for a friend, this thread is wicked...awesome job with the details.

[Got Milk?]

sick

[NOCLUE]

very nice

[ilovemyhonda.]

Great job and great write up!

[Stuntman G]

where did you get the paint from???

I always get mine from Summit. ~$30 a quart, ~$80 a gallon.

[DSM~420A]

:cheers: gonna give it a try good job bro

[hotmayo12]

how much would you charge to paint

[redneckhatch]

Really good instructions.

[rmeyer114]

good thread...should be a sticky note

[1NonlyAccord]

Thanks guys.
for all people who have questions concerning getting stuff painted.please PM me. like page 1 said.
Thanks!

[bullet67]

more work than i would want to chance but definitely a nice job man.

[CeOTiO8]

Reps... I need to paint my car also