getting head milled, is it POSSIBLE to boost later?

[teh_mugen18]

I know, boosting and getting my head milled are going down two entirely different paths as far as making engine power is concerned, but what i was wanting to know is if i get my head milled down to a certain point and my engine will have a higher comp ratio, can i still boost on that particular head or should i re-install a stock head to bring the CR back down for boost?

[Captain-Obvious™]

joel...come on man no motor stuff get that DB lookin' sexy first

[teh_mugen18]

joel...come on man no motor stuff get that DB lookin' sexy first

:D lol sorry i gotta get it fast first!

Plus, ive already got a 2nd head to work with, so i figure i might as well see what kind of power i can try to regain from a bit of a build. lol plus im only makin 96whp. Thats less than a Honda FIT.:eek:

[suprapower]

what kinda of setup do you plan on running on it?

[teh_mugen18]

stock pistons/piston rings, 8 - 10psi Garrett T25 turbo, new valve seals, dual valve springs, OEM headgasket, chipped and tuned by Scotty, port/polished head, new engine bearings, freshly honed cylinders, and milled head(?).


EDIT: forged pistons/rods, eGay turbo kit and replace the charger with Garrett T3/T4 turbo on 8 -10psi, new valve seals, dual valve springs, OEM headgasket, chipped and tuned by Scotty, new engine bearings, new rear main seal, freshly honed cylinders, HKS boost controller:ninja: .

Sound nice and reliable?:goodjob:

[Captain-Obvious™]

:D lol sorry i gotta get it fast first!

Plus, ive already got a 2nd head to work with, so i figure i might as well see what kind of power i can try to regain from a bit of a build. lol plus im only makin 96whp. Thats less than a Honda FIT.:eek:

alright fine...:screwy:

[jadakid88]

it really doesnt matter, sine you getting it tuned anyway. and plus your goin to make more power with the head being milled

[Psycho]

I've never tuned a honda before. But I have owned several turbo vehicles. The one thing I can tell you, is that raising compression before you boost your car is a step in the wrong direction. The higher your compression is, the less boost you can run on your car, and the more likely you'll pop an engine. Instead of spending money on head work, buy a set of lower compression pistons and some forged rods. That way, when you do slap your turbo on, you can run mad boost, make a **** load of power, and not worry about blowing your baby up. The more money you spend on random crap, the longer it will take you to finish your build.

[teh_mugen18]

The more money you spend on random crap, the longer it will take you to finish your build.


AMEN to that one, it seems like thats all i've been doing lately....:thinking: :crazy:

REPS!

EDIT: so basically, what you are saying is, get more block/bottom end work done, rather than headwork.

[MR.EM1]

low cr pistons/rings/rods, oem gasket, turbo FTW

[j0nbunklah0m]

vtec head.. btw this is the primer hatch :)

[G.C]

he higher your compression is, the less boost you can run on your car, and the more likely you'll pop an engine.

That is true but you GAIN more power with LESS boost in higher Comp.

[teh_mugen18]

vtec head.. btw this is the primer hatch :)

lol THE primer hatch?:eek:

*i have no recollection btw...have i met you already? Are u the dude that was always complaining about how ur front tires are too fat in comparison to the back ones? I think i know who u are now...maybe.:thinking:

[teh_mugen18]

That is true but you GAIN more power with LESS boost in higher Comp.

Yeah, not to mention; withOUT boost, its more power as well. So, if i just get my head milled, ill have to run less boost. Oh, well. Either way, its more power to the wheels.:goodjob:
I think ill get my head milled AND run forged internals and boost, that way itll be more power (but less boost) and i can still be not as concerned about popping anything. Not to mention, getting my head milled costs pretty much almost nothing.

[greasemunkey]

stock pistons/piston rings, 8 - 10psi Garrett T25 turbo, new valve seals, dual valve springs, OEM headgasket, chipped and tuned by Scotty, port/polished head, new engine bearings, freshly honed cylinders, and milled head(?).


EDIT: forged pistons/rods, eGay turbo kit and replace the charger with Garrett T3/T4 turbo on 8 -10psi, new valve seals, dual valve springs, OEM headgasket, chipped and tuned by Scotty, new engine bearings, new rear main seal, freshly honed cylinders, HKS boost controller:ninja: .

Sound nice and reliable?:goodjob:if your going as far as a fresh hone on the block, get sleaves then you are safe @ 10 psi at least with your high compression. make sure to put some good rod bearings in as well especially if your running higher compression

[teh_mugen18]

if your going as far as a fresh hone on the block, get sleaves then you are safe @ 10 psi at least with your high compression

If its possible to replace the sleeves in basically a "backyard mechanic" type setting, then i might think about it. I hear upgrading sleeves can get pretty expensive...

Also, who makes a good rod bearing set?

[teh_mugen18]

LoL...one last question for you guys;


1st off, let me explain; my compression in my engine is very low. If i get my milled head and install it, ill be installing it on low-comp rings. What will happen if the thing makes my compression too high, after installing new rings. Is that possible?