B16a CRX fuel issues?

[dr_Drache]

Ok I am cross posting this on a few of my favorite forums LAWL...

been away do to multi back-to-back iraq tours....and training

so give me some slack


Back Story :
b16 CRX SI 1991, OBD1 conversion, ostrich 2 w/crome map, WB tuned ~13.9:1 A/F
car was rebuilt in 2004, drove perfect, location : sunny Flordia;
Joined the Army, Car sat for ~2+ years, With no starting and stupid stuff added to tank
aka, Mystery Oil; Stay-bil fuel stablizer, and octane booster of some kind (thanks dad)
car was then trailered to Humid sunny Georgia, and then comes the FUN...

car arrived unstartable, first off, i KNEW that the fuel was bad, drained fuel, added new,
no start, fuel pump would not come on, master relay switched out, no pump...

so i went crazy...

got my self a new pump (xenocron 255lph), fuel rail, FPR and injectors, and filter (b18a 1991 Acura teg LS)
installed said items... car now runs goood.... or so i thought.

when coming down from load, (a small LEGAL run up to 55-75 then a quick(ish) stop)
it would "try to stall".... this is semi difficult to explain...

it would act as if it had NO or TOO MUCH fuel, sometimes i can hold the pedal down WOT, and it would "catch up" and then start to accelrate or rev up, depending on if i have come to a complete stop or not.
usally it would stall.
which required, multible key cycles with WOT starting to get it to run.
when it did finally run, (sometimes even 2 hours later of leaving it alone) the exaust was blacker and thicker, aka RICH

at this point i assumed Fuel issues, so i removed the tank and pump, and found out my sock had come off the pump, so i got ANOTHER pump, and filter, replaced it.

car ran great, with no issues for about 10-20 miles. then.. .back to fun
didn't have time, (was changing bases again in the army) so car was shipped to TX
I have the Car back now, and wondering where to go from here.

I was thinking that perhaps my return fuel line was semi clogged, causing it to clog at times, which in turn causes massing PSI hikes, blah blah blah...
I was informed by other people this may not be the case...


any one got any constructive ideas? all questions are welcome, but don't be stupid, i've been doing this for years, just rusty now.

[bigdare23]

Did you clean the whole fuel system? One of my previous CRXs sat for a good minute and ran like crap. I added some fuel injector cleaner and got on the highway pushed it (around 70-80mph) for about 45mins and that seemed to help (my mechanic at the time suggested this). Also, do you have a stock p30 (or a stock b16 map chip). I would compare how the car runs with a stock ecu to your modified one.

[dr_Drache]

Yes I did try fuel cleaner, and to no avail, did NOT change a thing.

I do not have a spare ECU to test with at this time.
wish i did.
but i DID try with other maps, changes nothing that i can tell.

[bigdare23]

So no CELs?

[dr_Drache]

none that i can tell, of course my CEL light does seem inop, and i don't know the proper way to datalog a crome rom, without buying pro.

[jfrolang]

i don't know the proper way to datalog a crome rom, without buying pro.
I'll assume you already have a wideband O2 and controller(such as the Innovate LC-1), the datalog output on your ECU board and have already cut jumper J12. You can use Freelog (a free download, it comes with instructions in a readme file) and the Moates HondaLog / HULOG with a printer-style USB cable to your laptop. I also bought a DC-DC step-up converter to power my laptop from my cig lighter socket.

[dr_Drache]

JEFFF, forgot you lived here!

I have all of that, but i have the RS232->USB hulog connection (USB-B port)
j12 is cut. my WB is the JAW, with a JC-1 output. and everything checks out fine, i just know freelog has some serious issues with crome 4.xRx (forgot which one i made the rom with)
i'm trying to relearn everything, but pgmfi.org forums are deep...

on another note, i am currently looking for a damn exhuast (car shippers destroyed my thermal R&D)

[bigdare23]

JEFFF, forgot you lived here!

on another note, i am currently looking for a damn exhuast (car shippers destroyed my thermal R&D)


Jeff actually moved to Idaho back in December, but he's still part of the family so he still post up.

As for exhausts, an option (if you want to stay local and a new exhaust) is to use Nopi. If you used the "Import Atlanta" or "Honda-Tech" discount, it tend to greatly lower the price. I used that discount when I purchase my buddyclub spec II exhaust and I ended up pay around $320 (it retails there for $405+shipping) for it shipped. Just a thought. :goodjob:

[dr_Drache]

Jeff actually moved to Idaho back in December, but he's still part of the family so he still post up.

As for exhausts, an option (if you want to stay local and a new exhaust) is to use Nopi. If you used the "Import Atlanta" or "Honda-Tech" discount, it tend to greatly lower the price. I used that discount when I purchase my buddyclub spec II exhaust and I ended up pay around $320 (it retails there for $405+shipping) for it shipped. Just a thought. :goodjob:

Wow, I feel retarded, didn't know he moved.
but I might just have a local guy weld one up for me, we'll see.
but those prices arn't bad, still more than the deal i got on my thermal, but deals come and... well go.

UPDATE :

some responses from others have been :

Change ignitor out, "common symtoms of failing ignitor "
and try to recheck CODES.

both are in the process of being completed. will update later..

[turbodawg]

Your injectors may be clogged. Might want to try cleaning them out manually. They very well may be clogged which is keeping them from closing all the way after their duty cycle ends.

[southside]

the car hasnt been tuned in like 2 years????Some stuff I use is called seafoam it cleans fuel systems and motors works well.Used it in my brother lude made a big difference.And how did they destroy your thermal when shipping the car.

[eva6206213]

thank you for your sharing~