milling vs thin headgasket

[bigdare23]

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of doing either? Also would you recommend doing both at the same time? I'm just just looking to bump the c/r of my b16 (and no, replacing pistons is not worth it on a b16). I heard the most you can mill is .040in off the head. Is this true?!?


This is what I'm thinking about doing

-milling the head (between .035-.040in)
-running a spoon or mugen head gasket
-installing flat dome valves
(I might add I'm running ctr cams)

I checked the c/r using a calculator and it was fine so I'm not worried about that. I'm more worried about the valve to piston clearance. So if anyone has any experience on the topic, your help will be greatly appreciated! :goodjob:

[SiRed94]

well milling the head is irreversible so if you ever change your mind and think about going boost and you don't want the C/R up that much...that would be a draw back... but I guess you could always call up Cometic and get a thicker headgasket...

[bigdare23]

well milling the head is irreversible so if you ever change your mind and think about going boost and you don't want the C/R up that much...that would be a draw back... but I guess you could always call up Cometic and get a thicker headgasket...

thats no problem cuz

n/a >>> boost



:D



now back on topic!

[SiRed94]

haha... yeah I agree on that too... (Ignore My Sig) but if you are worried about is P2V clearance, you can clay the engine to check the clearances inside and then flycut the pistons....

[SiRed94]

but yeah I've heard the max is .040 from some ppl and .050 from others...

[bigdare23]

That's for your input homie.

[Vteckidd]

i know people that have milled .080

TO answer your question its not worth the increase in power. You are better off buying a GSR head (automatic .3 bump in Comp from the square chamber) and running flat faced valves (.3 bump).

RUN AN OEM HEADGASKET ALWAYS.

That would be a .6 bump in compression from just switching heads and valves. Much more reliable that milling past the service limit.

Milling the head screws up your timing too because you are shortening the deck height.

most i would do is .010

from that you might pick up 5whp. maybe a little more if tuned.

Or you could buy a header *COUGH IN STOCK COUGH* an make 10whp

[SPOOLIN]

ive got a b16a head thats milled to the "indicator" that ill sell. Ported by turbo dave. I just need to find some oem valves for it.

[SiRed94]

to solve the deck height issue get adjustable cam gears....

[all-mota]

the milling isn't really worth the downfalls it causes. you can pick up power for cheap in other areas without milling the head just chose you mods wisely and it should make the same power.

smote on here had a 174whp b16 with type r head intake mani and crower 403 cams with a dc header.

so just buy somedecent cams or something and go from there i always look at head milling as the last resort even after welding the chambers because it seem to be a cheap way out for the little power you get

[smote]

w00t! untuned lol

[bigdare23]

ive got a b16a head thats milled to the "indicator" that ill sell. Ported by turbo dave. I just need to find some oem valves for it.


Thanks for the offer

[bigdare23]

the milling isn't really worth the downfalls it causes. you can pick up power for cheap in other areas without milling the head just chose you mods wisely and it should make the same power.

smote on here had a 174whp b16 with type r head intake mani and crower 403 cams with a dc header.

so just buy somedecent cams or something and go from there i always look at head milling as the last resort even after welding the chambers because it seem to be a cheap way out for the little power you get


I'm steps ahead of ya homie. :goodjob:

Basically my motor is "fully-bolted" and there's not really anything left to do beside going into the block (which isn't worth it on a b16) or getting head work (which is coming in my next build). My goal is to get around 170hp out of a stock port/stock bottom end b16, then building a 2.0L motor. I wasn't too far from my goal the last time I dynoed my car (156hp). I was obd0 then, untuned using a stock pw0 map, revving to 8200, and I didn't have all the mods I have now (Since then I converted to obd1 with a chipped p28, switched exhaust, buddyclub spec II exhaust now,...).

So to achieve this goal, I just thought of bumping my compression ratio up a little bit with milling the head, using a thinner headgasket (mugen or spoon) and flat face valves. Then changing my valve springs and retainers also (to rev a little higher). Then getting dyno tuned. So I'm just trying to get all of the hp out of this little 1.6L before I move to bigger and better things.

(I'm doing this now rather than starting the other build because I have another EF, so once I get done with this motor, it's getting swapped into my other car and the CRX is getting the new heart. So I'm killing two birds with one stone)

[HatchHero]

lower and raise compression with pistons not gasket! good luck homie just my two cent

[bigdare23]

lower and raise compression with pistons not gasket! good luck homie just my two cent

not a option

[Vteckidd]

well you have the 2 highest whp NA cars in GA commenting in this thread.

Me and Chris aka All-Mota

So i would listen to us.

156whp is not bad, to get to 170 with just a compression increase, good luck.

youll have to get at least a point and tune to come close.

The HIGHEST WHP b16 i ever did was 99SIs motor. Stock block, stock head )port), M22X cams, valvetrain, JDM Dc header 4-1, 2.5in exhaust, AEBs intake manifold, Omni Valves.

178whp revving to 9500.

STOCK BLOCK.

His motor was rebuilt by us but back to factory specs.

a 15 year old block, i dont see it happening.

What cams are you running? If its still just the CTR intake, you need to invest in some ITR cams or a CTR Intake cam an tuning.

I still stand by the header choice, just because if you dont have one, you are losiong power.

But if you insist on going with the compression increase, flat faced valves an mill the head .010. Id run a GSR head to, youd get close to 11:1 with that setup.

then tune it

[THEONE]

boost it on stock internals and be done with it. the cost will be about the same as all motor and you will make more power. if you shop around and take your time and you will be happier.blow a 1000 on all motor and gain a solid 40hp or blow a 1000 on boost and gain 75 or more(just a guess) boost owns all unless you have a huge bank roll.

from my experience turbo has been the way for me bang for buck on hondas unless you have money to burn. good luck

oh and so you know all motor guys spend around 400-god only knows how much on a header for maybe 15hp with a expensive cam but hey thats your journey.