Fiberglass bodyparts? Ugh! *sigh*

[speedminded]

What's your take on fiberglass bodyparts? I'm having a hard time sourcing original steel e30 M3 body parts for my project and been screwed three times with broken promises so getting impatient!

I've located front fenders and rear flares that are 1" wider than stock and they're fiberglass. The front fenders are bolt on but the rears would probably need to be pinned and molded...did I mention i'm really not a fan of fiberglass?!

If you've worked with it and don't mind using it sell me on it. I've repaired a few fiberglass bumpers and never really been much of a fan of it. What's the benefits and advantages, anything special with paint or care, how is long term durability and repairs?

[Echonova]

Take your time and get the steel... Fiberglass FTL. Fitment will be @ss, requiring more labor at the body shop, and you'll cringe every time some even walks close to your fenders.

[Kevykev]

Go with your heart Jason, go with your heart.


L to the O L.

[Stormhammer]

Repairing fiberglass can be easier than repairing a steel body based on what's been done. With steel, you can never exactly get a dent back to perfect, and small dent's leave a "halo" and you have to bondo it in and such. Fiberglass? You just sand, put more fiberglass, sand smooth and level, and continue on with repainting.

Fiberglass destroys easier though. But it's also lighter. Steel is more durable, can be harder to fix, and can rust as well. So there are pro's and con's to each side.

[secondgencamaro]

I've been running a fiberglass hood on my Camaro since '03-'04. Haven't had any real trouble with it. I've contemplated fiberglass fenders for the weight savings, but as often as people lean on cars THAT AREN'T THEIRS I've decided to just keep my steel pieces. Weight can be shaved elsewhere. In your situation where you just can't go down to Goodmark and get new steel pieces I would consider the fiberglass fenders a little more seriously. Is this car going to spend alot of time in public parking lots where Soccer Mom Suzy is going to let her kids swing the door of the Suburban into your fenders? Do people have the very distinct tendency to lean on your cars? The only thing I'm worried about with the rear flares is that fiberglass and metal are two completely different materials and expand and contract differently at various temperatures. For a daily that is going to get exposed to the elements all the time? Ennhhhh... For a weekend 'fun' car that is going to be brought out on cruise nights, track days, or for a summer drive? Go ahead.

Actually, now that I think about it, one last thing to keep in mind is to make sure you're happy with the product before you paint, prep, anything with it. That is my only complaint about my hood (which is from Unlimited). They did not properly set the underbracing to the skin of the hood, keeping it from lining up 100%. On the other hand, I've seen several unmodified/prepped Harwood hoods bolt up like it was N.O.S. factory stuff. Look for a reputable company, try and talk to someone that has used their stuff, and weigh the benefits/negatives of both steel and fiberglass for you specific project. Less weight is always good, but steel is more durable.

[secondgencamaro]

Sorry for the short novella, lol.

[speedminded]

I've been running a fiberglass hood on my Camaro since '03-'04. Haven't had any real trouble with it. I've contemplated fiberglass fenders for the weight savings, but as often as people lean on cars THAT AREN'T THEIRS I've decided to just keep my steel pieces. Weight can be shaved elsewhere. In your situation where you just can't go down to Goodmark and get new steel pieces I would consider the fiberglass fenders a little more seriously. Is this car going to spend alot of time in public parking lots where Soccer Mom Suzy is going to let her kids swing the door of the Suburban into your fenders? Do people have the very distinct tendency to lean on your cars? The only thing I'm worried about with the rear flares is that fiberglass and metal are two completely different materials and expand and contract differently at various temperatures. For a daily that is going to get exposed to the elements all the time? Ennhhhh... For a weekend 'fun' car that is going to be brought out on cruise nights, track days, or for a summer drive? Go ahead.

Actually, now that I think about it, one last thing to keep in mind is to make sure you're happy with the product before you paint, prep, anything with it. That is my only complaint about my hood (which is from Unlimited). They did not properly set the underbracing to the skin of the hood, keeping it from lining up 100%. On the other hand, I've seen several unmodified/prepped Harwood hoods bolt up like it was N.O.S. factory stuff. Look for a reputable company, try and talk to someone that has used their stuff, and weigh the benefits/negatives of both steel and fiberglass for you specific project. Less weight is always good, but steel is more durable.Thanks for the replies! I never park next to other cars unless i know the owner and the last person to lean on one of mine lost a couple fingers...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/admicorscan/IMG_0977-1.jpg

haha, jk :tongue:

The car will always have a car cover with it and will only be exposed to elements while driving. :goodjob:

[Kyle]

I've noticed they make quite a few fiberglass parts for bimmers.

I wouldn't be comfortable with it on a daily driver but that's just me, especially doors. But if you do enough fiberglass and shell a car it can be nasty. If you keep up with the GRM Challenge go back a few years to like 2004, a guy did most all of the panels on his Mk1 MR2 with custom fiberglass and used a stock engine and it was still pretty fast.


As for durability I couldnt tell you. But if you dedicate yourself to weight reduction I feel that fiberglass is the way to go. Just my two cents.

[speedminded]

The doors would be stock but with shaved molding: just like the Integra Type-R is shaved compared to the base/GS-R Integra, the e30 M3 is a shaved e30 but with wider front and rear quarters as well.

This guy won't ship but it's exactly what I'm looking for:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/629293893.html

With the nature of the project it needs the aggressive look of the flared fenders, not to mention the ultra rare wheels I have are 8" & 9" wide with a low offset and I want them either flush or tucked. The fiberglass version would allow that much easier and have an even more aggressive stance.

Guess I'll just wait until I get my suspension conversion on so the wheels can be fitted and see exactly how much wider the body needs to be...who knows, maybe run stock e30 M3 fenders up front and the 1" wider fiberglass flares in the rear?! I'm liking the wide body M3 look though... :boobies:

[speedminded]

While looking at a Solstice at a friends shop the other day it gave me the idea of creating a one piece front including the headlights and grill.

It would be nice to have the front raise (or be removable) like the Corvette or Viper but also include the headlights like the Solstice. Boxsters [and assuming other late model Porsche's as well] have headlights that snap in without a wire harness. The entire light assembly is plug and play but there is no physical plug...it just slides in and makes contact like a battery in a remote. Creating an adapter like that would be awesome and removing the front clip couldn't be easier.

The purpose you ask? Makes working under the hood that much easier when everything is out of the way, helps protect the fenders and paint, easily inspect the suspension, etc...I think to much :tongue:

[Kyle]

The doors would be stock but with shaved molding: just like the Integra Type-R is shaved compared to the base/GS-R Integra, the e30 M3 is a shaved e30 but with wider front and rear quarters as well.

This guy won't ship but it's exactly what I'm looking for:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/629293893.html

With the nature of the project it needs the aggressive look of the flared fenders, not to mention the ultra rare wheels I have are 8" & 9" wide with a low offset and I want them either flush or tucked. The fiberglass version would allow that much easier and have an even more aggressive stance.

Guess I'll just wait until I get my suspension conversion on so the wheels can be fitted and see exactly how much wider the body needs to be...who knows, maybe run stock e30 M3 fenders up front and the 1" wider fiberglass flares in the rear?! I'm liking the wide body M3 look though... :boobies:
Gotcha. I say go for it then. I love how aggressive e30 m3's look from the back. Its amazing.


While looking at a Solstice at a friends shop the other day it gave me the idea of creating a one piece front including the headlights and grill.

It would be nice to have the front raise (or be removable) like the Corvette or Viper but also include the headlights like the Solstice. Boxsters [and assuming other late model Porsche's as well] have headlights that snap in without a wire harness. The entire light assembly is plug and play but there is no physical plug...it just slides in and makes contact like a battery in a remote. Creating an adapter like that would be awesome and removing the front clip couldn't be easier.

The purpose you ask? Makes working under the hood that much easier when everything is out of the way, helps protect the fenders and paint, easily inspect the suspension, etc...I think to much :tongue:
The thing about that is if you hit anything the repair is not going to be easy/fun. I like the concept though.

[speedminded]

Gotcha. I say go for it then. I love how aggressive e30 m3's look from the back. Its amazing.Mmm...camber much?

http://www.m3e30.com/gallery/m3e30/danny/index.html

[iNsTuN nOoDoH]

I hated fiberglass. With my Civic, I never had any problems with the rear fenders when they were molded, but the front fenders were flexing and cracking like crazy. I guess the front would be alright if everything was reinforced real well, but as soon as you hit a bump; it might tear out the mounting holes.