Idle Bogging

[blaknoize]

B18B1:

As the title says, this motor boggs during idle, but only After it has been driven.

For example, traveling 50mpg for 5 miles, coasting to a red light in neutral the motors rpms will drop to roughly 200 and last maybe a second or two. Then... the idle jumps back to where it belongs. This occurs even when the motor is cold and idling high, but only after being driven.

Yes, I've checked Haynes (cant get a Cliton) and I have checked the vacuum lines. Two of them were faulty and replaced (MAF and FPR.) I did; however, notice that after I changed the radiator and flushed and filled it, it didnt do it as BAD, but it still boggs.

Any suggestions? PM me if youd like. Otherwise I'll try and find a "tuner" shop in this crusty white/redneck state.

[jadakid88]

i am having the same problem but it happens to me when my motor is warm!

[Farrow2005]

Same Problem!! did same thing you have done, but mine is not as bad. drops to about 400. and only at redlights. fine when its in park, or on the go.

[Schugg]

B18B1:

As the title says, this motor boggs during idle, but only After it has been driven.

For example, traveling 50mpg for 5 miles, coasting to a red light in neutral the motors rpms will drop to roughly 200 and last maybe a second or two. Then... the idle jumps back to where it belongs. This occurs even when the motor is cold and idling high, but only after being driven.

Yes, I've checked Haynes (cant get a Cliton) and I have checked the vacuum lines. Two of them were faulty and replaced (MAF and FPR.) I did; however, notice that after I changed the radiator and flushed and filled it, it didnt do it as BAD, but it still boggs.

Any suggestions? PM me if youd like. Otherwise I'll try and find a "tuner" shop in this crusty white/redneck state.


oh sh1t you in ohio? im sorry, i was born there. check all of your accessories that are connected to the crank pulley with belts (AC, PS, ALT...) . if any of those are starting to lock up, it will work fine while driving and there is force to spin them, but when you stop and it idles down there is less force and the resistance of the accessories pulley locking up will cause it to bog down. could also be from the belts being to tight, never had that happen though. i just had a alternator start to lock up and it bogged the motor down, and evently wouldnt even let it start.

[blaknoize]

oh sh1t you in ohio? im sorry, i was born there. check all of your accessories that are connected to the crank pulley with belts (AC, PS, ALT...) . if any of those are starting to lock up, it will work fine while driving and there is force to spin them, but when you stop and it idles down there is less force and the resistance of the accessories pulley locking up will cause it to bog down. could also be from the belts being to tight, never had that happen though. i just had a alternator start to lock up and it bogged the motor down, and evently wouldnt even let it start. now THATS a great idea. There are only 2 belts on this car though. The timing was replaced then later I replaced the alternator belt myself. IDK if its to tight or loose but it squeaks on start up and the car idles low in the morning. IDK, I'll try and adjust that pain in the ass alternator (this is in a CRX so.... clearances ugh) and update u guys. Thanks for the info.

The next mission is the thermostat, thats a JOB!!!:rolleyes:

[ATL86]

You may need to replace the IACV. At least try cleaning it with some carb cleaner first. Clean your FITV while you're at it :)

[Grimm Reeper]

You may need to replace the IACV. At least try cleaning it with some carb cleaner first. Clean your FITV while you're at it :)


Or you may need to adjust the IACV and after you do that and it still idles rough, might need to get someone to adjust your TPS sensor :thinking:



I'm surprised you didn't start this thread in the EF Squad section, this time....:thinking: