Just ordered a complete T3/T04E kit.

[jmmx258]

I planned on running 440 Injectors and a regulator for now.

What I didnt know was whether I want Saturated, or Peak and Hold.

Also, what spark plugs you reccomend as well. I also am installing an MSD Coil and Cap.

Thanks.

This in a 90 CRX with a B16 in it. Thanks.

[NAG2I]

why not just get some dsm 450s

[jmmx258]

Thanks, but I just got off the phone with RCEng. They steered me straight. In the next month or less, I"ll be boosted, dang i'm excited! lolol

[Batlground]

Honda-Tech has a special right now, $215 shipped for Precision Saturated 450cc injectors.

id get in on that

[1NonlyAccord]

saterated are the plug and play ones right?

[Batlground]

yes

[Batlground]

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2134379

High Impedance / Saturated
310cc - 55 HP per injector - $210
440cc - 77 HP per injector - $210
525cc - 85 HP per injector - $269

Low Impedance / Peak Hold
680cc - 120 HP per injector - $269
780cc - 135 HP per injector - $269
880cc - 151 HP per injector - $269
1000cc - 171 HP per injector - $289
1600cc - 275 HP per injector - $420

[jmmx258]

Boy i screwed the pooch!! I ordered RC's, and it came up over 300 or so lol

O'well.

[miro_gt]

Precision injectors suck IMO. I've seen people complain about those not flowing as much as they are ment to, so it may be hit or miss thing ... Before somebody starts arguing I'll say that this is just IMO (that they suck)

when I ordered my RCs, those came flow tested and were withing 1% of the nominal. (actually about 0.5% withing each other). I also paid about 300 shipped, but it was well worth it since I haven't had a single problem with them.

[Batlground]

They come with flow sheets, and ive used them on multiple builds from 200whp NA hondas to 800whp EVOs with ZERO PROBLEMS.

They are just as good as RC, RC has just been around longer.

[jmmx258]

Whats a reccomended fuel pump? WIll my oem suffice for now?

Also, I ended up getting 370s. I heard that a stock ECU wouldn't support those and bigger very well. However, I'm running a spoon ECU. I was told to piggy back the system, however, I was also told that would severely diminish the value to the ecu, to the car and price wise. I would think the spoon would be fine with the bigger injectors. I'm also only runnig 7psi on stock compression for now. Until I have a little more cash saved for dropped compression, then i'll up the boost.

Also, I'm looking for a lower priced but good say 10:1 Fuel pressure regulator as well.

[Batlground]

way off man. you just wasted your money.

Ditch the SPOON ecu, go with a CROME ecu mapped for 450cc injectors.

youll need 450cc for 7psi, 370s aint gonna cut it with a spoon ecu.

Walbro fuel pump too, OEM isnt up to the task

[jmmx258]

The car actually came with the spoon. At this point, I dont have the cash to buy a new ECU.

I ordered a Walbro 255 last night. The most I can do really is ebay, sell out right, or trade off my spoon. Dammit! lol

reps for the help

[jmmx258]

Ok, i've checked ECU arent that much money. What exactly do I need? Model p? or whatever. I'm new to the boost scene so i'm learning. Everytime I look for soemthing ir ead on it first. So i'm taking the time I dont wanna grenade my motor lol

[Batlground]

sell the spoon ecu

My Crome ECUs run $150 for nonvtec and $170 for VTEC

[jmmx258]

COuuld you hook me up with a link to buy a ready to go ECU with vtec

[jmmx258]

I'm sorry If i didnt say. Its a 90 CRX with a B16A. Thanks!

[isa2o3]

get low temp ngk spark plugs

[jmmx258]

get low temp ngk spark plugs
Coming from a Motocross backround the heat range on the plugs doesnt make a difference like most would think. Say on my dirtbike, which comes factory with an NGK CR8E plug. I switch to a CR7E plug. All that does is means that the plugs doesn't dissipate heat as fast as the 8. Meaning it stays hotter longer. ONLY the plug, nothing else.

Same thing with a 2 stroke engine. Your basic 2 stroke plug is a B8ES Lots of people run a 9 but it makes no difference. In how the bike runs.

I did plan on new plugs, I ordered a seperate coil and cap from MSD, if its that important that I run a cooler heat range plug, then I will buy them. As of right now, the same heat range plugs will be going in the car as whats in it now.

[patrick4588]

well welcome to cars and the heat range matters. and i posted in your other thread, a t4 turbo wont fit a t3 manifold. and btw a t4 turbo on a stock motor at 7psi wont do ****. you have a ton of reading to do

[Berta]

NGK 3330's work good for boost. And they dont cost much at all. thats what i always ran and other ppls that i knew.

[Sneezin]

...good luck...

[japan4racing]

for injectors...just do what you want brand wise...i would get atleast 450's if not 550's. i have had rc injectors numerous times with no probs..now i have precision 1000cc. they are all good. no one stays in business for making crappy products. a crome p28 will do you fine and get tuned dont waste your time on fmu's and such. as for plugs i always used ngk bkr7e's i think the part number is 6097. just listen to batlground as he is not gonna steer you wrong

[GAtegs]

STOP BUYING SH*T AND START READING...

You have NO idea what you are doing and you are going to waste A LOT of money.

[jmmx258]

STOP BUYING SH*T AND START READING...

You have NO idea what you are doing and you are going to waste A LOT of money.

How do you assume I bought ****?? The only things I've bought, were a 12:1 regulator, A boost Guage, Air Fuel guage, The turbo kit, a Catch Can, a Gredding timing belt b/c it's due anyways, Rods, Bearings, Crank bearings, Complete gasket and seal kit, MSD Cap and Ex. Coil, Adjustable Cam Gears, A timer, boost controller,l and Injectors.

A friend of mine built his car at a shop local to his house, they did all the tuning and what not at a resonable price, and will be helping me as well.

[GAtegs]

How do you assume I bought ****?? The only things I've bought, were a 12:1 regulator

I assume, by this, you mean an FMU...no comment


Air Fuel guage

You said you are on a tight budget so I can only assume that this is NOT a wideband...if so, you just bought disco lights...


Adjustable Cam Gears

Do you know why cam gears are adjusted?


I heard that a stock ECU

You cannot safely boost a car with a stock ECU...


Coming from a Motocross backround the heat range on the plugs doesnt make a difference like most would think.

You're not boosting a f*ckin dirtbike, who cares what kind of plugs they use...you need to run colder plugs.

[patrick4588]

nicely puy cj

[japan4racing]

damn...you beat me to it cj!!!

[slow_hatch]

STOP BUYING SH*T AND START READING...

You have NO idea what you are doing and you are going to waste A LOT of money.

x2 :goodjob: Sounds like you need to do some research. Its a little more complex than you seem to be making it.


The only things I've bought, were a 12:1 regulator, Air Fuel guage, The turbo kit, a Catch Can, MSD Cap and Ex. Coil, Adjustable Cam Gears, A timer, boost controller

Congrats, you just spent unnecessary money and having even got the essentials down yet. BTW what "Kit" did you buy???

[19'sPrelude]

I'm not going to hate on you for buying what you bought. No, it's not what some people would have spent their money on, but it's still bringing you closer to joining the boosted crowd. I'm not sure how long your build will last if you go down that road, but nonetheless....

Just make sure you do extensive research on what you need. Research every part before you buy it and see what people say about it from personal experience.

Good luck and I hope it all works out for you.

[turborodarry]

for injectors...just do what you want brand wise...i would get atleast 450's if not 550's. i have had rc injectors numerous times with no probs..now i have precision 1000cc. they are all good. no one stays in business for making crappy products. a crome p28 will do you fine and get tuned dont waste your time on fmu's and such. as for plugs i always used ngk bkr7e's i think the part number is 6097. just listen to batlground as he is not gonna steer you wrong
I have 550's

[helcat17]

look man like the guy before me said im not going to hate on you but you do need to slow your role and listen to a few of these guys that have done this sh!t before and you have wasted your money on a few things your 370 or whatever the number was you need atleaste 450 or higher and forget about all the piggy back b/s not needed make sure you spend money on a name brand turbo other wise your not going to make it long enough to actually enjoy it and plugs defiantly make a huge difference i would go 2 steps colder and close the gap a lil im not sure exactly how much im sure some one on here can help on that one other thing you said something about you bought rods but were going to weight on pistons i believe you probably should weight till you got the money for them also i wouldn't break down the whole motor just to put rods in its going to cost you more in the end anyway just my opinion

[19'sPrelude]

look man like the guy before me said im not going to hate on you but you do need to slow your role and listen to a few of these guys that have done this sh!t before and you have wasted your money on a few things your 370 or whatever the number was you need atleaste 450 or higher and forget about all the piggy back b/s not needed make sure you spend money on a name brand turbo other wise your not going to make it long enough to actually enjoy it and plugs defiantly make a huge difference i would go 2 steps colder and close the gap a lil im not sure exactly how much im sure some one on here can help on that one other thing you said something about you bought rods but were going to weight on pistons i believe you probably should weight till you got the money for them also i wouldn't break down the whole motor just to put rods in its going to cost you more in the end anyway just my opinion

I was informed to gap mine to .28 - .32

[jmmx258]

http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=AEM-30-4100 Theres the guage I got.

Its the Garrett T3/T4 and Model is T04E.
Exhaust AR .63
Intake AR .50


Tell me exactly what else I need, I have the Turbo, Mani, Wastegate, Blowoff, Boost Controller, Down pipe, Piping, FMIC....Thats what came with the kit.

I also ordered the 370's, I can send them back.

The Greddy Timing belt, I'm due, and i'm trying to boost, its worth the money.

Adjustable cam gears, I'm sure those will make tuning easier in the end, or are necessary?

the A/F guage.

Boost Guage.

The Regulator.

255 Walbro.

Other items as well, i'm not sure i'd have to check the boxes.

[GAtegs]

Your compressor is a little small. I would look for something with a .63/.60 compressor and exhaust.

That gauge will work fine.

The injectors depend on your power goals, but I can guarantee that 370's are too small.

The cam gears are not necessary at all.

You keep saying a regulator...Are you talking about a fuel pressure regulator or an FMU? If you are referring to an FPR, that's fine, you need that, along with a fuel pressure gauge (nothing fancy, just something for under the hood to set fuel pressure). If you are referring to an FMU, that is wrong in so many ways, but you can research why.

The Walbro 255 is right.

You also need oil feed/return lines and hardware for both.

You NEED colder plugs...I use NKG 3330, which I BELIEVE are BCPR7ES.

And after all this, you need some management...hondata, chrome, neptune, AEM, or something. I highly recommend Hondata.

[GAtegs]

I was informed to gap mine to .28 - .32

LOL...technically, you just said you were told to gap your plugs to just over a 1/4 inch :-)

What you meant to say was .028 in. - .032 in. which is absolutely correct.

[GAtegs]

If you are changing your timing belt, you should also change your water pump, tensioner, and your spring.

You also need an exhaust for this project, unless you are going to be running an open down pipe.

A lot of people will say that your Honda ignition system will be fine, I disagree and believe that for over 300whp or so, you should upgrade the ignition system.

[jmmx258]

Your compressor is a little small. I would look for something with a .63/.60 compressor and exhaust.

That gauge will work fine.

The injectors depend on your power goals, but I can guarantee that 370's are too small.

The cam gears are not necessary at all.

You keep saying a regulator...Are you talking about a fuel pressure regulator or an FMU? If you are referring to an FPR, that's fine, you need that, along with a fuel pressure gauge (nothing fancy, just something for under the hood to set fuel pressure). If you are referring to an FMU, that is wrong in so many ways, but you can research why.

The Walbro 255 is right.

You also need oil feed/return lines and hardware for both.

You NEED colder plugs...I use NKG 3330, which I BELIEVE are BCPR7ES.

And after all this, you need some management...hondata, chrome, neptune, AEM, or something. I highly recommend Hondata.

I'll go with the colder plugs, it just doesnt read right to me, but obviously you have more experience than I do.

By limited budget, i'm already at about 2.5k with everything. I planned on going with an ECU from Battlegrounds.

I meant Fuel Pressure Regulator. I also planned on going and picking up a water pump shortly before I do the install.

The install I can do all on my own. With out issue...well almost. My box got wet, so all my directions got ruined. You'd have thought they'd put them in a plastic bag but they didnt. Do you or anybody else know where I can find an install diagram, or directions?

I know ALL the bolt on stuff, Except the wastegate, I have no idea how that worked, it came with teh valve seat, and 2 like..spacers. I assume that the spacers are for the waste gate exhaust, but i'm not sure on that. Plus, I dont know how the waste gate bolts to the mani exactly. as in, does one of those spacer have to go in there, or does it bolt directly to it, with the valve seat of course.

Thanks. There was more, but I got lost lol

[jmmx258]

Oh, and it also came with the oil feed line, and fitting that'll accept the Sensor, feed line, and an eventual oil pressure guage.


ALso, I wanted to ask if there was a way I could get this thing installed, and drive it with very little to no tuning. ONLY about 2 hours from my house where the complete tuning will be done. Like, Could I just not plumb it into the intake just to get it where its going, as long as I have the oil lines installed, and the injectors not installed until tuned.

Thanks

[1NonlyAccord]

complete step by step with pics

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795

[GAtegs]

Batlground should give you a basemap ECU. DON'T boost and you will be fine.

[helcat17]

do not run on stock tune unless you pull the spring out of the w/g that will keep you from boosting plumb everything leave your stock injectors in untill you get to the shop it only takes about 10 min to change them do all that you can drive it to the shop n/p it would be safer just to get a trailer and haul it and what kind of w/g and bov do you have?

[jmmx258]

In his first picture, his Downpipe comes off the drivers side of his turbo. Mine has to come off of the left side. The way they shipped it. Is that a problem, or will that be ok? Assembled thats only going to move it 3" roughly to either the left or right side. I'm sure I could cut it to still flow right, and hit the exhaust. But is that going to be a power issue?

Also Gategs: I've got 2.25" DC Exhaust header back, soon to be cat back, well test pipe back shortly lol

[jmmx258]

according to that write up, as long as I have the right ECU, and everything installed properely, I can drive my car before tuning, IE just to the place where it'll be tunned.

So that answers one question. Is there any failsafe things I could do, timing, anything, just to make it it not grenade on my way to tuning

[Batlground]

if you need an ECU let me know, i just restocked

[jmmx258]

Thanks, What i'd really like to do is keep it obd0, tuned for a 450CC injector, with other things, i'll PM you for more details. Unless I absolutely have to do obd1

[Batlground]

OBD0 sucks, the software support sucks, the software is buggy.

OBD1 is way better an makes for a much more efficient tune

[jmmx258]

There's what looks like Vaccuum line fitings on the waste gate, is that exactly what those are? One on top, one on the side. What I really need, would be a vacuum line diagram. For the Blow off, Boost Controller ETC. Also if those are infact vacuum lines on the waste gate as well. Thanks again, sorry to be a pain in yalls tail!

[GAtegs]

In his first picture, his Downpipe comes off the drivers side of his turbo. Mine has to come off of the left side. The way they shipped it. Is that a problem, or will that be ok? Assembled thats only going to move it 3" roughly to either the left or right side. I'm sure I could cut it to still flow right, and hit the exhaust. But is that going to be a power issue?

Also Gategs: I've got 2.25" DC Exhaust header back, soon to be cat back, well test pipe back shortly lol

Unless you are planning on making under 200whp, a 2.25in. exhaust is going to be too small.

[jmmx258]

Ok, thanks. I'll just build my own exhaust then. What do you reccomend it be?? 2.5? or go with full 3" I plan on doing more with the motor eventually. So i'm sure thats overkill right now, but that'll save me from needing to do it later also. Thanks

[SiRed94]

Ok, thanks. I'll just build my own exhaust then. What do you reccomend it be?? 2.5? or go with full 3" I plan on doing more with the motor eventually. So i'm sure thats overkill right now, but that'll save me from needing to do it later also. Thanks

2.5 atleast... 3 if you can make it happen...

[SiRed94]

just out of curiosity... how many psi are you planning on running?

[jmmx258]

Stock compression, 6-7psi MAX. Just temporary. Once I drop compression, I'm going to gather more feedback, more intel, and go from up from there.

[SiRed94]

and yes... the fittings on the wastegate are vacuum lines.... the side connects to a boost source (turbo housing etc) and the top vents to atmosphere unless you are running a boost controller...

[GAtegs]

Now, in the 3 or 4 years I have been messing around with boost, there has been one thing that it came down to every single time...do it right the first time.

MOST people boost the car, drive it for a while, get the boost bug, and then want more, so they spend more money upgrading, and the money sucks...you, on the other hand, already know you are planning on upgrading so my advice to you is this: wait. It sucks, I know, but you will be so much happier if you just wait, save up, and do it right the first time. Upgrading ends up costing so much more in the long run for many reasons...1) You have to get the car retuned each time, 2) The original part you used is now "used" and you have to take a loss on it when selling it, 3) VERY often, you can not only upgrade 1 or 2 parts, there are a few parts that work as a part of a package that will not work as part of another package.

I know you are set on boosting your car, and you should...but wait.

I spent 8 months buying parts for my first setup...I'm on my 3rd or 4th now...

[GAtegs]

Also...I don't think you mentioned what kit you got...

And, on the list I gave you previously, I forgot that you need a new clutch, too.

[jmmx258]

I have a stage 3 exedy. By looking at waht I have now, i'm sending the 370 injectors back, and getting 550's probably. That will save me for an upgrade later in boost.

If i'm tuned for that, how much harder, and more money, honestly would it be for me to buy the higher PSI spring?

Yes, I'm running a boost controller as well. How do I plumb for the controller? All it really is, is a housing, with 2 nipples and a knob on it. One nipple has an arrow, the other doesnt. It says arrow points toward waste gate actuator. Then it has a T style fitting. Its got 3 nipples on it, it also has an arrow that "points to waste gate actuator. Thats what throws me off the most

[jmmx258]

I understand what your saying also GAteg, i'm just looking for as much info as I can get.


More than anything right now, the Vacuum lines are the most confusing.

Also, there was mention of the side fitting on the waste gate, going to a positive spot. There's a pipe plug in the compressor housing, could i replace that with a fitting?

Or, in my piping, there's a fitting that almost lookcs like if u put a CAI off and it would run into the valve cover. Could I run it there?

[helcat17]

damn i forgot all about the clutch good call my oem made it about 2 weeks at only 200hp on 5.5 psi (opps) and as i said befor you can run on stock tune with everything instaled as long as you take the waste gate spring out if you dont do that your going to blow yo sh!t

[patrick4588]

im on my 3rd setup in a year because i keep being an ******* and dont get tuned. blowing things up sucks. its soooo much money wasted. wait and get it tuned, dont be like me.

[SiRed94]

More than anything right now, the Vacuum lines are the most confusing.

Also, there was mention of the side fitting on the waste gate, going to a positive spot. There's a pipe plug in the compressor housing, could i replace that with a fitting?

yes... remove the plug and get a brass fitting with a vacuum line nipple on it... and connect that to the side of the wastegate.... or if you have a boost controller run that fitting to a vacuum tee then run one side of the tee to the bottom of the wastegate and run the other side of the tee to the boost controller in side... then run the out side of the boost controller to the top of the wastegate.... its really pretty simple...

[GAtegs]

FYI, you should not need that boost controller for 6-7 psi...I havent heard of MANY new turbo kits that come with a smaller spring than that.

[jmmx258]

yes... remove the plug and get a brass fitting with a vacuum line nipple on it... and connect that to the side of the wastegate.... or if you have a boost controller run that fitting to a vacuum tee then run one side of the tee to the bottom of the wastegate and run the other side of the tee to the boost controller in side... then run the out side of the boost controller to the top of the wastegate.... its really pretty simple...
I have no clue what your saying lol. Thts why I was hoping for some sort of diagram lol!

[SiRed94]

FYI, you should not need that boost controller for 6-7 psi...I havent heard of MANY new turbo kits that come with a smaller spring than that.

just leave it off to reduce any urges/temptations you may have... for the sake of your engine...

[jmmx258]

FYI, you should not need that boost controller for 6-7 psi...I havent heard of MANY new turbo kits that come with a smaller spring than that.
I figured, they sent it with everything, I might as well use it.


Btw, its a garrett, from CXracing

[SiRed94]

I have no clue what your saying lol. Thts why I was hoping for some sort of diagram lol!

then google search it... there are 1000 diagrams... including the one on Tialsports webpage....

[SiRed94]

http://tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_wginstall.pdf

[SiRed94]

2 seconds... search man...

[GAtegs]

I figured, they sent it with everything, I might as well use it.


Btw, its a garrett, from CXracing

A boost controller turns boost up...if you want to boost 6-7 psi and you have a 6-7 psi spring, you will not be using it and it will be pointless. so no, just because they sent it doesn't mean you might as well use it.

[SiRed94]

and really... with what you are doing i personally would just get dsm 450's and save the extra 200 you will spend on the RC's especially since you are on a budget....

[19'sPrelude]

LOL...technically, you just said you were told to gap your plugs to just over a 1/4 inch :-)



What you meant to say was .028 in. - .032 in. which is absolutely correct.

Tegs your such a :gay: Always calling me out on the technicalities...haha just messing with ya bro. :goodjob: +1