View Full Version : 1990 Civic Won't Crank - Need Help
Alternator is good.
Battery cell is good and will hold a charge.
Coil is good.
New fuel filter.
Fuel pump is good.
Can't figure out why this car is having trouble getting started. If we jump it, it'll start. It's got to be a ignition problem obviously because it's getting air and fuel. Any ideas where to check next? Maybe the starter or a bad ground? :dunno:
1flysi
01-07-2008, 01:40 PM
It sounds like a loose connection or bad battery. Have you load tested the battery?
bigdare23
01-07-2008, 01:44 PM
easy fix
main relay duhhhhh
mushroom_toy
01-07-2008, 01:46 PM
Main relay or battery. Check for spark.
easy fix
main relay duhhhhhHow does one go about fixing this main relay? I'm a bit ignorant in this department.
Main relay or battery. Check for spark.I pulled a plug and checked it for spark. Spark is good.
It sounds like a loose connection or bad battery. Have you load tested the battery?Checked the battery at Advanced Auto this past weekend and it was fine. A bit old, but still good. Alternator was doing good as well.
mushroom_toy
01-07-2008, 01:49 PM
Im not sure about the civic but mine is up under my dash on the drivers side. Its a good bit past the fuse block, and pretty up in there. Hard to get to unless you hav small hands and time.
Formally...
01-07-2008, 02:15 PM
If the car will run when you jump it off then it is not the main relay. The main relay turns on the ecu and fuel pump and if it was not working then the car will not run at all.
Make sure the ground wire between the chassis and the transmission is good. I have seen that if this ground is bad then the starter will not work. It may also be a bad ignition switch. Good luck.
The thing that's weird is that once you jump it, it runs fine. It's just not keeping juice. My bet is that it's a bad ground that's keeping the alternator from charging it.
Okay, new evidence has been uncovered!
Apparently if I crank the car it'll start, but if I start it then turn it off and try it again, it won't start. Leave it alone for about 30-45mins and it'll start.
WTF? :???:
aaronfelipe
01-08-2008, 08:39 AM
Sounds like the battery connection...
Sammich
01-08-2008, 08:42 AM
x2 battery connection..the most annoying, yet the easiest to fix..redo your battery connectino then get back to us
^ Will do.
The positive connection looked fine to me, but the ground is routed in some weird @ss way and goes to somewhere I can't seem to trace. I'll double-check it and report back. :)
aaronfelipe
01-08-2008, 02:36 PM
^ Will do.
The positive connection looked fine to me, but the ground is routed in some weird @ss way and goes to somewhere I can't seem to trace. I'll double-check it and report back. :)
If it's really hard to get to then you can always cut it and make yourself a new one.
Sammich
01-08-2008, 02:42 PM
didn't even think about that..you can make it a short wire that connects to the battery, hence a better/powerful ground
aaronfelipe
01-08-2008, 02:44 PM
didn't even think about that..you can make it a short wire that connects to the battery, hence a better/powerful ground
Basically, and it will be clean from all of the grime which creates minimal resitance. It would be like boosting it.
Sammich
01-08-2008, 02:46 PM
yea the vT4k will pat you on the back
aaronfelipe
01-08-2008, 02:51 PM
Tools Needed:
- Something to Cut the Wire (Dremel or Wire Cutters)
- Crimpers Suggested but Pliers would work okay.
- Socket Wrench (10mm)
- Solder and Blow Torch (Optional)
Parts Needed:
- 12 to 14 ft of 4 Gauge Temp Resistant Wire (Usually Audio Amp Wire will work.)
- 10 to 16 O-Terminal Connectors (Crimpable)
Procedure:
1.) Strip 3/4" of Insulation off each end of the Wire.
2.) This is optional, you can either Solder or Crimp your Connections.
3.) Use a Blow Torch or even a Lighter would probably work here.
4.) Finished Soldering
5.) Connection
6.) Make sure both O-Terminals are aligned in the same direction.
7.) Mount It
DaRussian
01-08-2008, 05:35 PM
It sounds like a loose connection or bad battery.?
x2
blaknoize
01-08-2008, 06:57 PM
Tools Needed:
- Something to Cut the Wire (Dremel or Wire Cutters)
- Crimpers Suggested but Pliers would work okay.
- Socket Wrench (10mm)
- Solder and Blow Torch (Optional)
Parts Needed:
- 12 to 14 ft of 4 Gauge Temp Resistant Wire (Usually Audio Amp Wire will work.)
- 10 to 16 O-Terminal Connectors (Crimpable)
Procedure:
1.) Strip 3/4" of Insulation off each end of the Wire.
2.) This is optional, you can either Solder or Crimp your Connections.
3.) Use a Blow Torch or even a Lighter would probably work here.
4.) Finished Soldering
5.) Connection
6.) Make sure both O-Terminals are aligned in the same direction.
7.) Mount ItOr... skip all that, limp the car to pep boys, buy some new terminals and get them installed for $20. I was to lazy to do it myself:rolleyes:
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