93 miata WHAT TO DO?

[Annik5k]

here she is plane and bare.
gimme some tips lets dress her up
it may be a while im scrap 4 cash.
but lets make it nice not rice.
Going for drift
not drag.
going for track. (still street legal)
not street.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a19/annik5k/minimeeedtcoc-1.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a19/annik5k/100_1104.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a19/annik5k/100_1105.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a19/annik5k/100_1106.jpg

[.gauge.]

Panasports!



......and coilovers

[chituntang]

Rework all suspensions, meaning all arms, bushings, coilovers. sway bars if any. Roll cage FTW with a roadster (at least an anti roll bar). Then a little power upgrade will not hurt. Lastly will be steering wheels, seats, and the "Drift" button.

[mx-5peed]

struts and springs and some wheels...thats it.

[Roadster]

struts and springs and some wheels...thats it.

No. Lol.

Very clean base to start with though Annik5k.

In order of importance:

-Roll bar
-Gut it (hey, you wanna go fast. Throwing money at a Miata motor isn't going to help nearly as much as taking **** out.)
-Get some decent tires. Azenis or the like. Biggest bang for the buck.
-Good spring/adjustable damper setup (KYB AGX's and Flyin' Miata springs usually do the trick)
-Lightweight flywheel (transforms the car)
-Swaybars, whatever brand. I love my Racing Beats.
-Wheels
-Bolt-ons (I/H/E).
-Cosmetic stuff.

Be careful when looking for wheels though. Miata's have an oddball offset: 45mm. It's hard to find aftermarket wheels with that offset, and going with the standard 38 or 35mm offset creates a lever effect in the front end that makes the car dart all over the place under braking. My Rotas are 38mm and it can be a little unnerving on uneven pavement. Factory NB Miata wheels are a good bet. Wider than stock, uber light, and the correct offset.

Welcome to the addiction. :D

[cobalt9123]

there was a magazine that had the 7thousand dollar budget miata in it...ended up pretty nice i think, just like yours, anyways, in my opinion, drop a damn 5.0 or LS1 in it and make it a monster miata..but you want balance and drift sooo, i'd do suspension first, everything, and then build your motor and turbo it...

[redrumracer]

what ever you do DONT put heavy ass rims on it, trust me i know.

[Elbow]

No. Lol.

Very clean base to start with though Annik5k.

In order of importance:

-Roll bar
-Gut it (hey, you wanna go fast. Throwing money at a Miata motor isn't going to help nearly as much as taking **** out.)
-Get some decent tires. Azenis or the like. Biggest bang for the buck.
-Good spring/adjustable damper setup (KYB AGX's and Flyin' Miata springs usually do the trick)
-Lightweight flywheel (transforms the car)
-Swaybars, whatever brand. I love my Racing Beats.
-Wheels
-Bolt-ons (I/H/E).
-Cosmetic stuff.

Be careful when looking for wheels though. Miata's have an oddball offset: 45mm. It's hard to find aftermarket wheels with that offset, and going with the standard 38 or 35mm offset creates a lever effect in the front end that makes the car dart all over the place under braking. My Rotas are 38mm and it can be a little unnerving on uneven pavement. Factory NB Miata wheels are a good bet. Wider than stock, uber light, and the correct offset.

Welcome to the addiction. :D

I have nothing else to add ;)

And yes, welcome to the addiction :goodjob:

[mx-5peed]

i got my hands on some tienz its about a 1in drop all around and it sits nice as fudge. i reccomend them but then again i havent tried any other kind so...yea.

[Tree]

BOOST....BOOST.....BOOST... then more BOOST

[Annik5k]

No. Lol.

Very clean base to start with though Annik5k.

In order of importance:

-Roll bar
-Gut it (hey, you wanna go fast. Throwing money at a Miata motor isn't going to help nearly as much as taking **** out.)
-Get some decent tires. Azenis or the like. Biggest bang for the buck.
-Good spring/adjustable damper setup (KYB AGX's and Flyin' Miata springs usually do the trick)
-Lightweight flywheel (transforms the car)
-Swaybars, whatever brand. I love my Racing Beats.
-Wheels
-Bolt-ons (I/H/E).
-Cosmetic stuff.

Be careful when looking for wheels though. Miata's have an oddball offset: 45mm. It's hard to find aftermarket wheels with that offset, and going with the standard 38 or 35mm offset creates a lever effect in the front end that makes the car dart all over the place under braking. My Rotas are 38mm and it can be a little unnerving on uneven pavement. Factory NB Miata wheels are a good bet. Wider than stock, uber light, and the correct offset.

Welcome to the addiction. :D

COPIED AND PRINTED...
this is my start up bible.
if your REEEALLY fuxn bored because im really fuXn lazy with it
links or a sight hook up?

[Annik5k]

i got my hands on some tienz its about a 1in drop all around and it sits nice as fudge. i reccomend them but then again i havent tried any other kind so...yea.

Ive ridden on teins... ONLY THE BEST i say.

[Annik5k]

I have nothing else to add ;)

And yes, welcome to the addiction :goodjob:

how can i build a cartoonish style signiture model like urs?:cry:

[Roadster]

Here's a little before and after. You and I started out with almost exactly the same car.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b304/NismoSER/P1070683.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b304/NismoSER/DSC_0177.jpg

[redrumracer]

COPIED AND PRINTED...
this is my start up bible.
if your REEEALLY fuxn bored because im really fuXn lazy with it
links or a sight hook up?


www.flyinmiata.com
www.miata.net
www.miataturbo.net
www.clubroadster.net
www.bellengineering.net

[Elbow]

I have Tein springs on mine

[Elbow]

...as for my sig someone else made it for me, idk how :(

[Annik5k]

Damn im a noob...
ISSUE #1: my soft top has a SLID glass window. not plastic.
THUS THE ROLL BAR will have to be able to allow the glass to drop safely in between the posts

[redrumracer]

Damn im a noob...
ISSUE #1: my soft top has a SLID glass window. not plastic.
THUS THE ROLL BAR will have to be able to allow the glass to drop safely in between the posts

they make em, the nb miatas came factory with rear glass and defrost

[Elbow]

Damn im a noob...
ISSUE #1: my soft top has a SLID glass window. not plastic.
THUS THE ROLL BAR will have to be able to allow the glass to drop safely in between the posts

The rear braces wont touch the top. They end forward of where the top lays down.

[redrumracer]

The rear braces wont touch the top. They end forward of where the top lays down.

actually i think like 1 or 2 of em interfere with the glass window but the window wont be a problem

[Annik5k]

dope.
THANKS!

[87 Turbo II]

I'll make th sig for you, it'll take a little while though.

[Annik5k]

1st.
how do ya do it
2nd.
ID APPRECIATE IT!!!!!!!!!

[87 Turbo II]

I do it pixel by pixel by hand. This was originally the red one with a roll bar and I changed it(if these aren't stock wheels I can try and change it a little later). I mentally assign each tone of red a fairly equal value tone for white and replace it with the pencil tool. Pixel by pixel editing takes a lot of practice, what you're doing on a small scale, you have to set your mind up for what it will look like zoomed out.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/miatawhite.jpg

[metalman]

On a Miata suspension & tires give the biggest bang for the buck.
Cant say anything bad about a good rollbar...although I dont run them because I am too tall and I dont want rollbar impressions in the back of my skull.
The gutting of a Miata does remove some weight but IMHO is for hardcore guys who dont mind a loud and nasty ride. Keep in mind, nothing on a Miata weighs much so one can remove alot of crap without really removing much weight. My preference is toward forced induction, which can make Miata very enjoyable to drive and one still retain the 'comforts' if they like them.

The downside of FI is that power can be addictive and many get caught up in trying for certain HP numbers rather then a drivable car...which is a mistake! A well tuned, simple, FI setup can yeild a reliable and quick little car. Of course, all of this takes $$
The best new intro turbo kit out there right is the BEGI-S kit from Bell Engineering....about $1600-1700. FI also leads to upgrades to clutch and diff which is more $$

The suspension and tires would be the first on my list.

[mocha latte cupcake]

project car magazine thats all you need lol

[87 Turbo II]

I do it pixel by pixel by hand. This was originally the red one with a roll bar and I changed it(if these aren't stock wheels I can try and change it a little later). I mentally assign each tone of red a fairly equal value tone for white and replace it with the pencil tool. Pixel by pixel editing takes a lot of practice, what you're doing on a small scale, you have to set your mind up for what it will look like zoomed out.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/miatawhite.jpg
bump, reps? it took like an hour, I mean I'll do it for nothing but no thank you?

[vrt eggroll]

I don't know anything about a miata, but these superangle rack ends are bad ass.
I don't know if you guys have heard of them, but for racing these would be great.

copy/paste from another site:

Secret Element has been in the process developing rack ends (inner tie rods) for the Miata chassis; in response to the failure of the threads on the OEM rack ends which occurs while running the Level7Tune spacers. Not only are these direct replacements for the OEM rack ends, they maximize the steering racks' travel, with 30% more travel than the Level7Tune spacers! Even if you are not exactly seeking more steering angle, chances are you current rack ends are in dire need of replacing, these fit the bill for the replacements. For those unfamiliar with the rack ends underdevelopment check out the following link http://www.roadsterdrift.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3420

Features:
-Direct replacement of OEM rack ends (Manual racks 90-02, Power racks 90-97)
-High strength forged 4140 chromoly steel ball joint stud
-High strength forged 4118 chromoly steel ball joint housing
-Polished ball stud and nylon race for improved wear resistance
-Black print coat for corrosion resistance
-Longer outer tie rod end threading for wider range of toe adjustment
-Steering rack travel increased 7% over OEM travel

These achieved 9 degree increase in steering angle...

OEM
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b200/suberi_rps13/OEM.jpg
Superangle
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b200/suberi_rps13/SESA.jpg

[87 Turbo II]

holy crap, if my FC had just a little more angle like that, it could nearly go in a perfect circle!(rear steer)

[vrt eggroll]

holy crap, if my FC had just a little more angle like that, it could nearly go in a perfect circle!(rear steer)

seems like the thing to say..lol..pretty much everyone that read this on the other forum was like "I want some for my FC! make um!"

[Annik5k]

I do it pixel by pixel by hand. This was originally the red one with a roll bar and I changed it(if these aren't stock wheels I can try and change it a little later). I mentally assign each tone of red a fairly equal value tone for white and replace it with the pencil tool. Pixel by pixel editing takes a lot of practice, what you're doing on a small scale, you have to set your mind up for what it will look like zoomed out.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/miatawhite.jpg

ya i know bout it i used to do P BY P a loooong time ago.
damn good work tho.
what ya use
MS paint?

[Annik5k]

So i got a new magnaflow exhaust today.
thanks 2
www.theatlbodykitstore.com

[Thighs]

^^ nice. catback or just a muffler? i wanna hear it man

[Annik5k]

nope just a muffler for now catback will be when i get mo $$

[Marty]

nope just a muffler for now catback will be when i get mo $$
[/IMG]

UGH.

Get rid of that, save your money, and build a nice exhaust.

[Marty]

The first thing I recommend before modding any used car is to make sure it is mechanically sound. When was the last time the coolant was flushed? Brakes changed and brake fluid changed? When was the tranny and diff fluid changed? Spark Plugs and plug wires? Miatas eat plug wires. ETC, ETC, ETC

With every used car I buy, I got through a HUGE laundry list of maintenance items before I start modding it. It's not as glamous as mods, but it's necessary.

[Annik5k]

it not a bad muffler MUCH BETTER THAN what i got.. not like i droped a **** TON ON IT.

and not being hostile but.... DO YOU REALLY THINK IM THAT DUMB... dude who sold me the car took me with him to get EVERYTHING cleaned and flushed... its covered...
im not that dumb

[Marty]

it not a bad muffler MUCH BETTER THAN what i got.. not like i droped a **** TON ON IT.

and not being hostile but.... DO YOU REALLY THINK IM THAT DUMB... dude who sold me the car took me with him to get EVERYTHING cleaned and flushed... its covered...
im not that dumb


:umno:


Have fun with your car

[Annik5k]

my intentions are good just gotta build from stock with little $ i save here and there.

[Thighs]

:umno:


Have fun with your car

YOU, sir, are a d*ckhead. go drift your gay dgtrials ass into a curb.

[HiPSI]

YOU, sir, are a d*ckhead. go drift your gay dgtrials ass into a curb.


what exactly makes him a ****head, jackass? all he said was to ditch the muffler and get a proper exhaust since a muffler alone does nothing but change the sound. oh, and how could i forget pointing out the obvious things that noobs tend to forget in the quest for instant gratification when buying cars.

if he really hurt your feelings that bad with his comments i will apologize on his behalf since he's currently out of town running an event. you can now stop sobbing in the corner and go back to listening to your favorite "my chemical romance" CD.

[white_rice]

ha you call it cocaine

[TallGuy]

take it to mike over at tophat so he can do an sr swap.

[Annik5k]

im not takin sides... this is a stupid argument... i bought it froma friend and im ording parts slowly.. i dont have 300000 to drop right away so but by bit im building up.
i know the muffler dose nothing but change tone and flow slightly. but hey its a work in progress gimme a break.
its not gettign RICED out so DONT WORRY.