Vteckidd
11-13-2007, 09:20 PM
WHAT SWAPS CAN I DO IN MY CIVIC/INTEGRA?
B16 (1.6L DOHC VTEC)
B18A/B18B (LS)
B18C1/B18C (GSR)
B18C5 (Integra Type R)
K20A2 (Rsx Type-S)
K20A (Rsx Type-R)
Chassis vary on what is needed and how complicated it can be. My advice is to try an convert or stay OBD1 whenever possible. FOr OBD2 people, youll want to register in a non emissions county as its easiest to pass. But its still possible to pass if you perform all the wiring and conversions neccesary.
All these engines require Mount kits, shift linkages, axles, Radiator Hoses, ECU to function properly or to even work at all.
Where to Purchase Mount Kits/Shift Linkages:
Hasport.com
Innovativemounts.com
Avidracing.com
Where to Purchase Axles:
Autozone
Advance Auto Parts
Hasport.com
Where to Purchase JDM/USDM Engines:
Ive only dealt with a few an ill list them as those are the only ones i can recommend. BUY AT YOUR OWN RISK, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
Hmotorsonline.com (ive bought over 50 swaps with NO problems and they are the only ones i reccomend)
Jarcoinc.com (only place i will purchase Nissan motorsets from, EXCELLENT quality)
Nadauto.com (bought 10 swaps from with no issues, talk to Bay)
Jhotimports.com (bought a few 2JZs from them, decent price, decent quality)
TOOLS NEEDED TO PULL AN ENGINE
You need:
SOCKETS:
10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
19mm- Rear bracket bolts, lug nuts
32mm- axles
WRENCHES:
10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
PLIERS:
Angled nose PLiers (hose clamps)
Straight nose pliers (hose clamps)
Flat head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
8mm punch for ***** Pin if you have a shift linkage
Hammer
Breaker Bar
2 Ton Jack
Jackstands
Engine Hoist ($100 at pepboys)
those are pretty much the tolls you have to have to do an engine swap.
Its pretty straight forward. Disconnect Battery. YOu want to start by draining all fluids from the motor, radiator, transmission. Then disconnect the wiring harness, im unsure on the preludes in that year, but there should be 2 main harness disconnects, one at each shocktower like on an EG.
Youll want to leave the harness on the motor.
After the wiring is disconnected, start unhooking all hoses that attatch from the motor to antyhing outside of the engine, like firewall heater hoses, radiator hoses(pull the radiator, gives yourself more room).
Disconnect Power Steering and AC if applicable. Usually you can unbolt the compressor with the lines attatched , just undo the 4 14mm bolts from the compressor bracket. Same with the PS.
After all thats done, disconnect the shifter cables or linkage. Remove axles, unbolt header from cat.
Once all thats done, survey the engine, and make sure there is nothing that connects from the engine to the engine bay. Double check, remember your pulling the engine so any lines you missed the first time, double check now to make sure nothing else is in the way.
Once all thats done, hook hoist up to the motor. I use the 14mm on the back of the head and the 17mm front TQ mount as places to put the chain.
Jack the hoist up to put a SMALL amount of tension on the chain. Start undoing the engine mount bolts. Use your best judgement. I usually do the rear mount first, then the tranny mount from the trans, then the bolt to the tranny mount, then i undo the driver side mount.
once thats done, have a friend help you angle the motor an pull it out , sometimes its best to remove the hood if its your first time to give yourself plenty of room.
Once the motor is out, youll have to swap everything over to the new engine including trans, clutch, flywheel, wiring harness, starter, etc.
HOW TO CHECK ECU CODES OBD1 and OBD2 Honda/Acura
Do you have a CEL?
Dont just reset the ecu by pulling the battery's neg. cable. Sure, that will reset the light, but youre not finding out whats wrong with your car! The light will always come back, until you fix it.
This is how you check your own cel (Check Engine Light), at home, without driving to a mechanic, auto store, dealer. Numbers for the light are listed farther below.
5 Easy to Follow Steps:
1) Get a CEL
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/1CEL.jpg
2) On the passener side, remove the kick panel at the floor.
Behind it, is your ecu and a jumper plug.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/location.jpg
3) Locate the jumper plug (Civic 92-95 is grey, 96-00 its blue). Its a 2 pin plug.
http://img116.exs.cx/img116/7518/CELConnector.jpg
For EK, there is 1 brown wire and 1 black wire
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/connector2.jpg
For EG, there is 1 tan wire and 1 green
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/connector2b.jpg
4) WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector.
5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)
-----CEL # List-----
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor - Cooling System
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines
OBD1 Civic / Integra / Prelude ECU Pin Schematics
OBD1 PLUG CONFIGURATION
Below is an example that shows the common onboard male connectors for a Honda OBD1 ECU.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd1/plugs2.jpg
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd1/obd1.pin.schematics.gif
OBD2a Civic & Integra ECU Pin Schematics
OBD2A PLUG CONFIGURATION
Below is an example that shows the onboard (female) connector configuration for an OBD2a ECU.
Take note of plugs: A, C, and D.
The blank connector (B) is only used with civic/integra vehicles equipped with A/T.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd2a/plugs.jpg
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd2a/obd2a.pin.schematics.gif
HOW TO WIRE VTEC OBD1 CIVIC/INTEGRA
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg
HOW TO WIRE VTEC OBD2A CIVIC/INTEGRA
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98.jpg
For More Wiring Information, visit:
http://technet.ff-squad.com/
For Even more in Depth FAQ, Visit:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998336
B16 (1.6L DOHC VTEC)
B18A/B18B (LS)
B18C1/B18C (GSR)
B18C5 (Integra Type R)
K20A2 (Rsx Type-S)
K20A (Rsx Type-R)
Chassis vary on what is needed and how complicated it can be. My advice is to try an convert or stay OBD1 whenever possible. FOr OBD2 people, youll want to register in a non emissions county as its easiest to pass. But its still possible to pass if you perform all the wiring and conversions neccesary.
All these engines require Mount kits, shift linkages, axles, Radiator Hoses, ECU to function properly or to even work at all.
Where to Purchase Mount Kits/Shift Linkages:
Hasport.com
Innovativemounts.com
Avidracing.com
Where to Purchase Axles:
Autozone
Advance Auto Parts
Hasport.com
Where to Purchase JDM/USDM Engines:
Ive only dealt with a few an ill list them as those are the only ones i can recommend. BUY AT YOUR OWN RISK, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
Hmotorsonline.com (ive bought over 50 swaps with NO problems and they are the only ones i reccomend)
Jarcoinc.com (only place i will purchase Nissan motorsets from, EXCELLENT quality)
Nadauto.com (bought 10 swaps from with no issues, talk to Bay)
Jhotimports.com (bought a few 2JZs from them, decent price, decent quality)
TOOLS NEEDED TO PULL AN ENGINE
You need:
SOCKETS:
10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
19mm- Rear bracket bolts, lug nuts
32mm- axles
WRENCHES:
10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
PLIERS:
Angled nose PLiers (hose clamps)
Straight nose pliers (hose clamps)
Flat head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
8mm punch for ***** Pin if you have a shift linkage
Hammer
Breaker Bar
2 Ton Jack
Jackstands
Engine Hoist ($100 at pepboys)
those are pretty much the tolls you have to have to do an engine swap.
Its pretty straight forward. Disconnect Battery. YOu want to start by draining all fluids from the motor, radiator, transmission. Then disconnect the wiring harness, im unsure on the preludes in that year, but there should be 2 main harness disconnects, one at each shocktower like on an EG.
Youll want to leave the harness on the motor.
After the wiring is disconnected, start unhooking all hoses that attatch from the motor to antyhing outside of the engine, like firewall heater hoses, radiator hoses(pull the radiator, gives yourself more room).
Disconnect Power Steering and AC if applicable. Usually you can unbolt the compressor with the lines attatched , just undo the 4 14mm bolts from the compressor bracket. Same with the PS.
After all thats done, disconnect the shifter cables or linkage. Remove axles, unbolt header from cat.
Once all thats done, survey the engine, and make sure there is nothing that connects from the engine to the engine bay. Double check, remember your pulling the engine so any lines you missed the first time, double check now to make sure nothing else is in the way.
Once all thats done, hook hoist up to the motor. I use the 14mm on the back of the head and the 17mm front TQ mount as places to put the chain.
Jack the hoist up to put a SMALL amount of tension on the chain. Start undoing the engine mount bolts. Use your best judgement. I usually do the rear mount first, then the tranny mount from the trans, then the bolt to the tranny mount, then i undo the driver side mount.
once thats done, have a friend help you angle the motor an pull it out , sometimes its best to remove the hood if its your first time to give yourself plenty of room.
Once the motor is out, youll have to swap everything over to the new engine including trans, clutch, flywheel, wiring harness, starter, etc.
HOW TO CHECK ECU CODES OBD1 and OBD2 Honda/Acura
Do you have a CEL?
Dont just reset the ecu by pulling the battery's neg. cable. Sure, that will reset the light, but youre not finding out whats wrong with your car! The light will always come back, until you fix it.
This is how you check your own cel (Check Engine Light), at home, without driving to a mechanic, auto store, dealer. Numbers for the light are listed farther below.
5 Easy to Follow Steps:
1) Get a CEL
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/1CEL.jpg
2) On the passener side, remove the kick panel at the floor.
Behind it, is your ecu and a jumper plug.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/location.jpg
3) Locate the jumper plug (Civic 92-95 is grey, 96-00 its blue). Its a 2 pin plug.
http://img116.exs.cx/img116/7518/CELConnector.jpg
For EK, there is 1 brown wire and 1 black wire
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/connector2.jpg
For EG, there is 1 tan wire and 1 green
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/pdiggitydogg/connector2b.jpg
4) WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector.
5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)
-----CEL # List-----
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor - Cooling System
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines
OBD1 Civic / Integra / Prelude ECU Pin Schematics
OBD1 PLUG CONFIGURATION
Below is an example that shows the common onboard male connectors for a Honda OBD1 ECU.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd1/plugs2.jpg
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd1/obd1.pin.schematics.gif
OBD2a Civic & Integra ECU Pin Schematics
OBD2A PLUG CONFIGURATION
Below is an example that shows the onboard (female) connector configuration for an OBD2a ECU.
Take note of plugs: A, C, and D.
The blank connector (B) is only used with civic/integra vehicles equipped with A/T.
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd2a/plugs.jpg
http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring/obd2a/obd2a.pin.schematics.gif
HOW TO WIRE VTEC OBD1 CIVIC/INTEGRA
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg
HOW TO WIRE VTEC OBD2A CIVIC/INTEGRA
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98.jpg
For More Wiring Information, visit:
http://technet.ff-squad.com/
For Even more in Depth FAQ, Visit:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998336