CRX B16 Help OBD0

[mxglory258]

When I got in my car friday night the CEL came on, and my car wouldn't rev past 3200 rpms. I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor, and nothing changed. So I'm assuming thats the problem.

Its a B16 OBD0 so what car do I have to order the part for to get the right thing. Thanks.

[mxglory258]

Oh and i'm currently stuck in ohio after going to Geauga lake sat. Is there a way to jump it just to get home? about 50 miles or so.

[bigdare23]

it maybe your dizzy. Something like that happened to my car and it went into "safe mode"

[japan4racing]

if you need a tps just use any obd-0 tps...im using a dx civic tps on my gsr

[green91]

if your car is in limp mode your CEL should be on, check what codes youve ecu is flashing

[mxglory258]

Well, I've got good spark. Getting fuel. I tore it apart just a while ago. The TPS still has the OEM paint on it to see if it's been worked with before. So I'm assuming that it's still the factory part.

I don't know whats all OBD0 and what's OBD1 and 2. I was just going to go autozone and see if they had one for an early 90's acura. I'd really like to know a specific model, that way when I need shit later, I know what to get it for.

Also, I don't know how to check CEL codes either :(. I can turn wrenches like crazy, but when it comes down to stuff like that, I'm car stupid.

Reps to those I can for the help so far.


Dare, Could you please PM me Evasive's phone number too?? Thanks man.

[green91]

OBD = On Board Diagnostics.. the number behind is the version. most b16s in EFs are OBD0.

Pull the carpet back on your passenger floorboard to access the ecu, there is a red light on the ecu, turn the key on and count the blinks to determine the code. short flashes = 1 long flashes = 10

so

long short short = code 12

then tell us the code(s) and we can go from there. it doesnt make sense to start tearing the car apart when the code may point you in the right direction.

[mxglory258]

I'm not at the car anymore. I've already left the house where it's at and Idk when I can go back to it :(.

I've quickly narrowed it down to probably being the TPS. When I can get back to my car, I'll check it, and get back to you as to what it reads as.

Any help on what year/model/brand the OBD0 might have came in from factory from the US? Thanks again ya'll. Much appreciated.

[green91]

Depends on what part is wrong, i dont think a TPS will make it go into limp mode and not rev.

[mxglory258]

I have no Idea. I would think so because I assume that the TPS controls how much fuel it lets come out of the injectors. So it would only let it rev so high as to not lean burn it. I stopped, ran into the store, got a drink, came back out, started the car and thats when it happened. I knew my TPS was already going bad, just didn't know when it was going to completely take a shit.


Fuck fuck fuck fuck

[green91]

TPS isnt used to control fuel so much as it is tip-in enrichment but not much else. fuel control is primarily based on rpms and map sensor load. im willing to bet its not the tps.

[The BUCKY]

check the code!!

[mxglory258]

I got a one for the first blink, then i watched it blink long over 150 times and got pissed and gave up. I got a TPS. No Fix. Tore my main relay open, and the damn thing is corroded and rusty inside (its brand new basically changed at evasive's house). So now i'm looking up how to jump it to get home.

[green91]

it will keep repeating. and i told you the TPS wouldnt fix it. and i cant think of a reason your main relay would make it go into limp mode. chill your ass out and get the code instead of stabbing in the dark or pay someone else to work on it. i hate when people ask for help then wont listen.

[mxglory258]

It aint that I'm not listening. It's that I need my car to run asap, and i'm for lack of better terms, broke right now.

Anyways, out of no where the car up and fired yesterday. Now it misses all the way up to about 7200 RPM, has NO Vtec, and while running spits out a #72 Code. I called autozone to get the info on the code, but the guy mumbled a bunch of shit, and I couldn't understand him. I also don't think whatever he said was right either, being as its swapped.

[green91]

obd0 cars dont have a code 72. what ecu is it

[mxglory258]

Spoon. After I looked it all up, it said its a misfire in cylinder one. I know I have a misfire of course. I just don't understand why out of no where the car finally decided to run. For the life of me, I can't figure this out.

[green91]

ok well if your car has codes for misfire then its not an obd0 ecu. there are many supposed "spoon" ecus

[mxglory258]

Well, I know that the little red light that you should be able to see through the floor pan, can't be seen unless you take the floor pan out. Plus, it detonates like hell if I run anything less than 93 octane gas in it too. I've adjust timing, its got completely stock timing specs, so its not like its advanced any to cause detonation.

[green91]

look at the sticker on the side of the ecu to see what the ecu code is.. typical obd0 ecu are either a PR3 or PW0

[BABY J]

It's the dizzy. Check all of the dizzy wires... and technically it's limiting you at 4k rpms, not 3200.

Also, believe it or not if you change the oil, a lot of times the code clears in obd0 cars. Sometimes it is an oil pressure safe mode - but usually when this happens there is no code at all.

[mxglory258]

It's the dizzy. Check all of the dizzy wires... and technically it's limiting you at 4k rpms, not 3200.

Also, believe it or not if you change the oil, a lot of times the code clears in obd0 cars. Sometimes it is an oil pressure safe mode - but usually when this happens there is no code at all.
Thanks. I read on a couple of other sites, that it was the igniter possibly. If thats the case, what do i get an igniter for?? Would a D15 one work in the B16?? I Have about 10 of them laying around somewhere lol.

Also the oil doesn't even have but maybe 1k on it. I changed it about 2 weeks before I came back up here.

Green. I'll check exactly what it is. I'm probably going to drive it home today, i'm still in Ohio at my girls so. Who knows lol.

[green91]

Well if your car actually is obd0, ive got a dist i can sell you. It looks to be in very good condition, id be happy to let you test it before u buy depending on where you live.

[mxglory258]

Well if your car actually is obd0, ive got a dist i can sell you. It looks to be in very good condition, id be happy to let you test it before u buy depending on where you live.
It's cool dude. I got some shit layin around I can rebuild one. I'm in PA now anyways. Preciate the offer though dude! CRX Is off the road, 92 Ranger is now on the road lol.

[BABY J]

I have this dizzy, and I am in Indianapolis - ready to go.

[green91]

mines better

[BABY J]

DISASSEMBLY


1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Unclip the air intake hosing and bend it out of the way of the distributor (for socket access).
3. Remove the spark plug wires from the distributor cap only.
4. Mark the alignment of the distributor on the cylinder head with a sharp object (for reference, timing should be readjusted).
5. Remove the three 12mm bolts that fasten the distributor to the cylinder head.
6. Release the two electrical harness clips.
7. With the distributor in a vice, remove the 3 bolts on the distributor cap.
8. Pull off the cap, remove and DO NOT LOSE the seal - may be broken, but it can be reused with liquid gasket. Remove the leak cover (held in loosely by its clips).
9. Remove electrical connections to the igniter unit. Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the housing of the distributor that hold it in place and remove 1 screw holding the harness clip. Now you can remove the igniter.
10. Remove the four screws that hold the ignition coil in place, and place it out of the way. You'll have to move the harness some out to get to one of them.
11. Remove the ignition rotor - one retaining screw.
12. Heat the three T-15 tamper proof torx head screws that fasten the separator plate to the aluminum housing. Your best bet is to use heat gun with small focused beam of air flow. Don't overheat it! Aluminum conducts heat well.
13. After SOME cooling, remove the three torx screws.
14. Using the two (2) flat head screwdrivers, remove the C-clip on the coupling. Remove the pin (slides out).
15. Remove the O-ring (will be replaced).
16. Slide the coupling off.
17. The 3-tamper proof T-15 screws love to break off. It is ok if they break off, because you can use the vice grips to remove the studs later if necessary. Apply more heat and the studs should come out. The replacement is M4x0.7. If you wreck the screws inside the housing, just tap in an M5. No big deal!
18. After that extensive effort, remove the 2 screws that hold the magnetic sensor on the separator plate. Remove the shaft from the distributor. It slides out.
19. Remove the reluctor (star-shaped part on the top of the shaft) preferably with some puller or by gently knocking the reluctor off with a hammer. Place a piece of wood or something soft on the top of the shaft to avoid mushrooming it. Now the shaft is out of the separator plate.
20. Remove the three small screws that hold the bearing housing (underneath aluminum separator plate).
21. If the bearing does not just fall off, use the puller to remove the old bearing.
22.Have a machine shop press on the new bearing or if you're good at it, tap it in with a socket. The replacement bearing part for Civics (88-91 JDM Civic SiR, USDM 88 and up), USMD Accords (90 and up), and USDM Legends (88-90) is a Nachi Bearing. The part number is 6001NSL.
Some of you reported that some JDM civics have a different bearing, Koyo 6001RS (replacement in Canada is 6001ZZ) which is the same as nachi in all respects but the ID which is 12mm vs. 12.4 ish mm for nachi. But you probably got Integra unit!
From the reports of others, 90-93 Acura distributor bearing is Koyo # 6001Z or Lordco # 0782401.
23. While you have the distributor apart, clean the cap, and make sure the gasket in the aluminum housing is in good condition. This piece is very important, because it has a tiny spring inside it, and is hard to replace. DO NOT WRECK THIS GASKET.



ASSEMBLY


1. Re-attach the bearing housing to the aluminum separator plate, securing the shaft to the plate.
2. Ensuring that all the igniter unit wires (4) pass through the space in the separator plate, use three the (3) new screws, not torx heads, to fasten the plate to the housing. I'd use LOCTITE.
3. Re-attach the sensor to the top of the plate, these torx screws don't stick, so no need to replace them.
4. Gently tap the reluctor back into place on the shaft (only fits one way). Make sure it does not touch the sensor (little coil) when it spins.
5. Install the ignition coil, fastening the four screws that hold it in place.
6. Install the new ignition rotor on the marked side of the shaft. (some shafts are threaded right through, if it is not, it is a rebuilt unit). The new rotor is circular, different from the hammer-shaped stock rotor.
7. Install the ignitor unit, fastening the two screws on the outside of the aluminum housing. Also re-attach the four electrical connections, and slide the plastic covers over them.
8. Install the leak cover.
9. Install the coupling on the shaft according to the markings. Slide the pin in, and re-install the metal C-clip.
10. Install the new O-ring.
11. Either (a) re-install the old cap seal, and use some liquid gasket, or (b) fill the gap with liquid gasket.
12. Ensuring all seals are in place, and the shaft spins freely, install the distributor cap, tightening the three (3) bolts.
13. Apply a small amount of liquid gasket to the aluminum housing surface around the coupling.
14. Slide the coupling into the groove on the intake camshaft - if it doesn't fit in, the coupling is on backwards.






15. Loosely install the three (3) 12mm bolts which fasten the distributor to the cylinder head - only so the distributor can be adjusted for timing purposes.
16. Re-attach the two (2) electrical harnesses.
17. Re-attach the spark plugs. Cylinder one is the driver's side on the cylinder head.







18. With the distributor aligned closely to the marking made previously, start the car, and adjust the timing by tapping the distributor gently forward (advance) or backward (retard). When it idles nicely at about 750 rpm (it must warm for a while), tighten the 12mm bolts.
If there is a backfire, the plug wires are installed in the wrong order. Shut down the engine immediately.
19. Re-connect the battery.
20. Re-attach the intake tube.
21. YOU ARE DONE.

[mxglory258]

Damn, thanks baby J +1. I have the shit to build one from my old civic. My question really, is will a D15 one work? lol. If not, then i'm just going to buy a brand new one.

[BABY J]

http://stores.ebay.com/DISTRIBUTOR-KING

do it once, do it right. don't take short cuts. either replace w/ that parts that was there - buy a working used dizzy, or get a new one.

[green91]

ive got a distributor king dizzy on my car, its not quite the same as the oem dizzy. i had to adjust mine to nearly maximum adjustment before the time was set whereas an oem should be around the center. ive heard of some people not being able to get their ignition time to set at all with an aftermarket.

[mxglory258]

I'm just going to find out what to buy it fork, and get a new OEM stock one. Though, from what I've been reading, I can just buy an igniter, put it in, and that should fix it.

[green91]

there is no us equivalent. the closest you can do is buy a LS dizzy and cut one leg off and modify the other two legs