GSR BLOCK/ B16 HEAD??

[9ussy]

gsr block/ b16 head...

feel free to give advice or let me know about the pros/cons.....

[Benefit]

isnt that a poor man's type r?...if im wrong sorry i dont know that much about honda's

[Grimm Reeper]

Are you going to build it or just slap it on?:thinking: :thinking:

Cause there's alot laid out there...

[9ussy]

yes i think its a poor mans type-r

and

i'm going to build the head.. but lemme know what you think

[iNsTuN nOoDoH]

How can you tolerate knowing that your a MORON!!!
Um... just to save you from some humiliation... in this case, "your" should be "you're".

[speedminded]

What's the budget? Port and polish the head, upgraded valve train with Skunk 2 cams, maybe treat the exhaust ports...on an ITR block with a knife edged oem crank will get you around 200whp using Hondata or Motec with a quality header -- but you're looking at some serious money for all that.

For the GSR block i'd look into forged rods paired up with a quality piston :2cents:

[Grimm Reeper]

Um... just to save you from some humiliation... in this case, "your" should be "you're".


Thanks for the correction:goodjob: :goodjob:

[9ussy]

well i'm planning to just build the head stage 2 cams, springs and retainers, valves, intake mani, throttle body... and just a stock block... whats the best set up??

[speedminded]

well i'm planning to just build the head stage 2 cams, springs and retainers, valves, intake mani, throttle body... and just a stock block... whats the best set up??i would definitely do a little work on the bottom end :2cents:

[9ussy]

ok thanks... i'll take that into account...

[99SI]

If nothing else you need to run PR3 (USDM Si) pistons in it. That will put your compression right around where it needs to be. Just get OEM Honda pistons/rings, if the cylinder walls look a little shiny get it bored a standard over bore. Get good bearings and go ahead and do the bottom end. If nothing else for insurance since I am sure you have picked up a used GSR block that you don't know how well it has been maintained. With the RPM you will need to turn with a stage 2 cam going ahead and doing a budget rebuild on the bottom will give you some good insurance against premature failure. Run a type R oil pump. Invest in a quality header. Those would be my words of wisdom.

[efman]

my advice to do exactly what 99si said!

[9ussy]

what numbers would i be putting up if all is done right??? anyone have dyno sheets??

[speedminded]

what numbers would i be putting up if all is done right??? anyone have dyno sheets??Every engine is going to be differant, no way to really even guessimate what it will be. What ECU do you plan on running?

[iNsTuN nOoDoH]

If you're putting that much money into the head already, you might as well do the block. If it was me, I wouldn't want to have to yank the motor out again due to a knock, bad rings or messed up ringlands. Figure out what route you want to go, n/a or forced induction, and start your build from there. Do the maintenance part of it too, new water pump, crank seal, main seal...

[iNsTuN nOoDoH]

That azianhustla dude is sellin a victor x manifold on here too. I'd recommend that manifold.

[iNsTuN nOoDoH]

That azianhustla dude is sellin a victor x manifold on here too. I'd recommend that manifold.

[9ussy]

i'm planning on a p28 ecu... hondata maybe??

[TheChosenOne]

I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.

Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!

good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.:goodjob:

[scttydb411]

whatever you do make sure you get it tuned.

my recommendation is to refresh the block since you're pulling the head off. at a minimum check the head and block to make sure the surfaces are true. pr3 pistons and rings like 99si said. hone or bore depending on the cylinders. it'd be a good idea to go ahead w/ oil/water pump/timing belt and bearings since it's going to be tore down as well as seals (basically rebuilding). forged rods/pistons aren't a necessity, but if you're going to have it torn down that far...why not?

no matter what you do...get it tuned. did i already say that?

good luck and have fun with it.

[jaystar]

i run that set up with type r pistons and manifold

[speedminded]

I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.

Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!

good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.:goodjob:you mean can't use the same head studs right?

[jaystar]

I run arp head studs best head studs u can use. And it is a processing doin a poor mans type r believe me

[99SI]

That azianhustla dude is sellin a victor x manifold on here too. I'd recommend that manifold.
If it's all motor then the victor X is more manifold than is neccessary and could possibly even cost you power. I've had good luck with the AEBS manifold with HOndata heatshield gasket. Plus that is a much cheaper option and will still get you plenty of benefit

[99SI]

I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.

Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!

good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.:goodjob:
Axels are a completely unneccesary item in there. The OEM fuel pump on an NA setup should be fine but an upgrade to a bigger OEM injector, such as Prelude injectors will help keep duty cycles where they need to be. FPR is also an unneccesary item. Definately run ARP rod and head bolts but if nothing else definately the rod bolts. That is the weakest link in the OEM rod setup is the bolts. I have run OEM rods with ARP bolts in a B16 to 10,000 rpm with no problem.

[99SI]

i'm planning on a p28 ecu... hondata maybe??
I really enjoyed the chipped P28 running crome or uberdata. I like it just as much as Hondata. If you are going to be running NA then I don't see the benefit of spending the extra money on a HOndata setup when you can do it much cheaper with most all of the same features with the chipped P28. Definately contact Scotty^^^^ @digitalboxtuning for more info on that.

[TheChosenOne]

Axels are a completely unneccesary item in there. The OEM fuel pump on an NA setup should be fine but an upgrade to a bigger OEM injector, such as Prelude injectors will help keep duty cycles where they need to be. FPR is also an unneccesary item. Definately run ARP rod and head bolts but if nothing else definately the rod bolts. That is the weakest link in the OEM rod setup is the bolts. I have run OEM rods with ARP bolts in a B16 to 10,000 rpm with no problem.
Thanks 99SI, you really seem to konw what you are talking about. The reason I had to get new axels is beacause the setup I haf in my hatch before pretty much killed both of the boots, so I just decided to get new ones. And I was told that the fuel pressure regulator would help with the larger injectors, but since I already have chrome, will it even be nessesary???

And, oh, while i'm at it. I need to know of someone who can tune my car for a decent price. i was tuned when It was a full gsr with itr springs, cams, and pistons, but I have a feeling I need to get it tuned again.:yes:
Hey scttydb411, do you tune???

[99SI]

Thanks 99SI, you really seem to konw what you are talking about. The reason I had to get new axels is beacause the setup I haf in my hatch before pretty much killed both of the boots, so I just decided to get new ones. And I was told that the fuel pressure regulator would help with the larger injectors, but since I already have chrome, will it even be nessesary???

And, oh, while i'm at it. I need to know of someone who can tune my car for a decent price. i was tuned when It was a full gsr with itr springs, cams, and pistons, but I have a feeling I need to get it tuned again.:yes:
Hey scttydb411, do you tune???
Yes, Scttydb411 does tune. He is the one who always tuned my car. Also, I was just pointing out that UPGRADED axles aren't neccesary in an NA car, even a fully built one. OEM is fine. FPR is not really neccessary as long as you are getting tuned with crome, not IMO anyway.

[TheChosenOne]

Kool beans. I guess I have a fuel pressure regulator, never been used, for sale !

How much do you think it'll run me to get my car fully tuned.

Yes, Scttydb411 does tune. He is the one who always tuned my car. Also, I was just pointing out that UPGRADED axles aren't neccesary in an NA car, even a fully built one. OEM is fine. FPR is not really neccessary as long as you are getting tuned with crome, not IMO anyway.

[99SI]

It depends on how long it takes! Usually figure on at least 2 hours sometimes may take 3 depening on how quickly he can get the part throttle stuff done and then get into fuel and ignition timing on full pulls. Depending on where he tunes at will determine actual cost per hour. I think it is usually somewhere around $150/hr. I would PM Mr. Kidd and Mainstream Performance to see who would give the best deal on dyno time for having it tuned. Good luck.

[scttydb411]

yes...na vtec usually around 2hrs or less if there are no issues. $140/hr at mainstream. feel free to give me a call and i can get you on the schedule.

[GSRteg®]

Nice poor mans type-r. :goodjob:

[DC2NR]

im in the process of doing it right now .. b16 head with skunk2 stage 2 cams, valves - springs and retainers (ti), ported and polished, aebs or jg manifold, jg 68mm tb.
GSR block with aftermarket rods, still debating whether or not to go b16 oem pistons or aftermarket. Or i can just go with a stroker kit. but wait till it comes out .. hopefully it'll be a beast :goodjob:

[IggyBcool]

i'm an idiot...

[Complete]

thanks for all commments.

[Mr2raceworks]

WHY????????????????